will
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CAJames,
Interesting ways of looking at it. I have not explored this, but some of the chatter out there as I was looking at 300B tubes implied to me that running very far under 300B operating points, or very far above, could do damage, and wondering if this was real, and if so, what are the basic perimeters, and and how critical this is.
It sounds like you don't think it matters so much to the 300B, but that it could put you into turmoil with rectifiers. I have tried a number of rectifiers in my 300B, and like the lower key ones better for now as I tune the amp inside. But the guy I bought it from seemed freaky about staying with rectifiers the amp was designed around, in this case a 5U4G, and cautioned me against going off the 5U4G parameters, I thought for the sake of the 300B??? Also seems some of the tonier manufacturers are on about rectifiers with their 300Bs.
Lon,
Nice it is back to one fuse for us audio fuse people. All my Decware has just one fuse, and though I have no doubt there was good reason, I dreaded seeing those internal fuse banks added.
My 300B was pretty tuned up when I bought it, including some massive output transformers that are supposed to have silver (plated?) winding and sound really good, WBT connectors, and some decent coupling caps. With more open and resolving tubes in the CSP3, ZR2 and 300B, it was surprisingly close to the fundamental sonic balances my highly tuned Torii IV had ended up with. So far it appears to have needed mainly careful cap bypassing and cap adjustments to help put it more on a par with the MkIV and more easily reveal the beauty potential of the 300B.
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