My version of better posts on the F15:

These were Cardas posts with Furaz plugs.  They fit on the existing F15 mount with a larger hole drilled.  But I had to wrap them with electrical tape.  There wasn't enough metal to drill a large enough hole for the supplied grommet/mount.

I think I went with the long Cardas.  Soldering was a bit tight and the Cardas sucked up a lot of heat from the soldering iron.

Those look good.  They look like they will fit in a smaller hole, already have insulation around the conductor and will take much less heat to solder.

So my surgery to replace the the speaker binding posts on the Lii Audio 15 drivers in my Caintuck Audio Lii 15's has been completed. Here is a run down on the equipment used and detailed steps:

IMPORTANT NOTE & FULL DISCLOSURE: Soldering the voice coil wire will void the speaker driver warranty from Lii Audio. You have been warned!

Equipment: KLE Innovations (formerly Eichmann) copper binding posts (purchased from Parts Connexion), soldering station, solder (I used Cardas Quad Eucletic solder), cordless drill w/ sharp drill bits, masking tape, needle nose pliers, small crescent wrench, phillips head screw driver, clean towel (to place speaker driver on face down), & 2 paper plates & paper cups).

Steps Used:
- Laying speakers on a clean table remove front screws holding driver from the OB panel, keep screws in small paper cup.
- Lay the driver face down with stock speaker binding posts on rear directly facing you.
- Carefully remove stock binding posts by unscrewing rear nut behind driver basket. The voice coil wire has a small spade clip that attaches wire to the binding post, carefully bend this away from the post. Remove binding post from hole.
- Place folded paper plates carefully between back of binding posts and rear of driver cone to catch metal shavings. Tape drill bit tip to approximately 1/2" length from tip. Drill out binding post holes to width sufficient for new binding post.
- Desolder the voice coil wire to remove spade clip. Do not cut the voice coil wire to remove spade clip, it may leave you short. Straighten wire out a bit, make sure it does not touch the rear of the speaker cone.
- Insert new speaker binding posts (KLEI copper posts in my case) into widened post holes. Facing rear of speaker the red posts (positive) go on the right and black posts (negative) on the left. Tighten rear binding post nut orienting copper wire hole @90 degree angle. Makes it easier to insert the end of the voice coil wire.
- With needle nose pliers carefully thread the voice coil wire thru binding post copper hole and crimp in place.
- Carefully solder the voice coil wire directly to the speaker binding post copper terminus. Make sure paper plate is between the rear of binding post and speaker cone, you don't want hot solder burning a hold in your speaker cone.😔
- Inspect all four soldering joints to insure they are clean and solid.
- Finally reattach Lii Audio 15 driver to the OB panel. Be sure to orient driver holes carefully to previous screw holes on the wood.

That's it. A little more work than originally expected as I had to widen the speaker binding posts a bit with a drill. All work was done by my son and his friend a skilled soldering guy. Took about one hour.

I was not able to take pictures of each step. Pictures of final installation can be found below.

Very nice Hock!  Those posts look like they fit a bit better than the Cardas since the latter require insulation around their thick post.  I had a similar process to installing mine but I left the drivers in the baffles and did everything vertically.  I didn't have (or notice) a shift in tonal balance that was objectionable and I agree that it's a worthwhile upgrade.