Quote:"I really enjoy the MKIV now, but I wish it had just a little more slam. Just a bit more dynamic and tactile I guess. I do enjoy the slightly warm signature my system has though. I've measured it, and it definitely does have additional harmonics in there."
I am getting amazingly real sound from my system with a MKIV and CSP3. Harmonically rich, not slow, nor lacking slam, but I have been playing around a with all the stuff working together to this end. The big thing to solve here with the Torii MKIII and IV was too much bass equalling a thickish/sluggish and/or slightly boomy bass. With some bass traps, but not enough, EQ was the easiest finishing touch for me, lowering important bass areas with narrow notches while bringing up a few others for more bass articulation. By getting rid of excess that the room does not do well with, the bass sounds bigger and faster.
Depending on how bad the problem is, tubes can help a lot. It sounds like wanting more tactile sound and slam being the wishlist, you may be close??? With words like boom and muddle, it would be harder to solve.
With a computer, different software and settings can definitely articulate bass differently as well as allowing for transparent EQ.
And as you suggested, your MKIV tubes are a lot about warmth. I have not heard the Brimar 5R4GY (guessing this tube type?) but have read it is warmer than the Phillips 5R4 I had which I found too dark and thick in the MKIV in my system/room, though I like 5R4GYs.
The Gold Lion KT66 I have liked a lot, but finally moved to more transparent power tubes (Valve Art KT66) especially after getting some Mazda GZ32 (ST shape) which are warmish and have body without being dark or slow. With more open rectifiers, OB3s (less dense and bassy than OA3s) and PCC88 inputs, the GL KT66 were beautiful here...
But...now, I really like the cryo'd Tungsol 6L6G. They were dark at first, but after burnin, they are nice and warm, but also articulate and open, and with less low mid and down darkness and density ... They are interestingly close to the GL in many ways, but, at least here, they do both things you mention being a bit more spacious and articulate, having more sense of immediacy, and the bass being a bit more articulate, it feels/sounds bigger. Depending on everything else, they could help with a faster bottom end as well as having more inner detail and faster leading edges than the GL...not huge, but notable differences here.
Also the American Amperex 7308s, a beautiful sounding tube, warmish, smooth and deep with a little less on the very top... also great inner detail... but perhaps also contributing to your issues. PCC88/7DJ8s tend to have a sense of power and punch similar to 6922 types, but with a little less low bass, more spaciousness and nice texture. Also ECC88/6DJ8s have these tendencies with generally a little less sense of power than 7DJ8s, but not at all always. In my tests just now, may be the area to try something else if you are inclined. The 7308 and an early sixties Valvo 6922 gold pin I just tried are both darker and denser than the late 60's Brimar/Ediswan ECC88/6DJ8s I have been running. By comparison with these the inner detail/spaciousness/detail came up without coolness, and also more articulate, tighter bass....Again, this setting and so on...Also OB3s are pretty inexpensive and may open things just right???
Then I wonder what you are running in the Z-stage. It sounds like you are getting really good qualities from it as is, but I was able to open things up and tighten bass depending on the tube and an open 12AT7s can provide more punch and power than most 12AU7s. I have a 50s Siemens that is gorgeous in the Zstage.
Also vibration can really muddle the bass.
Not having heard it myself, it sounds from others like the Mystery might get you more speed and slam easier, but I know you can get it from the MKIV too depending on everything else.