Quote: I suspect there is wire inside from the red speaker wire post to the bottom resistor post. Then the resistor connects that post to the top resistor post. Back inside, I suspect there is a wire from the top resistor post to the bottom cap post. Then the cap connects the bottom cap post to the top cap post. And the top cap post has an internal wire going to the plus side of the tweeter..... I hope than makes sense.
Yes that does make sense. I did read it a few times to make sure I was tracking it correctly. Thanks for the link on the clips…I just ordered them. That will definitely work out well once I get the capacitors mounted up to the platforms.
I’ll hit up Bob to see what he says. Speaking of Bob….I’m going to attach a couple of emails he sent me years ago in regards to my speakers and capacitor info. That way others with these speakers can be well informed.
Email #1 From Bob…
Anyway, I've never had the pleasure to listen to any of the Arizona caps. So I can't say one way or the other which way to go.
This past year I've sunk a lot of money into caps for the new version HR's. One thing I can tell you is even though you might think by passing the primary cap you are getting pre top end air, it's not always the case. Sometimes what you are hearing is phase distortion, making it sound like you are getting something your not. While the original plan sounded good at the time, I would only go with 1 bypass, .01 That way, I believe, the phase shift is so high it isn't heard, but what it does as it rolls in is heard.
I tried .01 Miflex caps in my HR-v2"s. Not because I wanted a by pass cap, but because I figured I'd put some hours on the MiFlex's before I installed them in my Torii. I can hear a difference in the top end air, and spacial cues. Which I wasn't expecting. Whether they stay in, is yet to be determined. Steve added a pair of .01 MyFlex caps in a pair of the bookshelf speakers and liked the results he's hearing.
Speaking to the guy at I believe it was Sonic Craft, he told me the MiFLex Copper foil was one of the hardest caps to listen to for the first 1000 hours, but after that, he felt they were the Holy Grail.
Hope this helps...
Bob
First off, any reference I made to the value of the cap should be .10 not .01. sorry if that confused you in any way.
Email #2
Dominick, No worries on the HR's....
I'm not quite sure what you speak of with the Miflex having a shield on one side. I've never seen it, or did I just miss it?
Shouldn't be too terrible of a job, your caps are external, no?
And, yes, the bypass cap should be soldered to the cap they are bypassing. I'm not so sure, i would want to though.
I actually by passed my main caps in my HR's. Not to by necessarily to by pass the cap, but to break in the caps before I installed them in my Torii. Never expecting to hear them at all, I was wrong. You can hear them.
After speaking with several others in the audio world, they are telling my, what you are hearing is the time smear, or distortion from the different value caps being so far apart. I did pull them out of the speakers.
I'd try the Miflex on there own and then add the Dueland. if it were me.
Email #3
In regards to the black strip on the capacitor, it makes more of a difference with tube amps, but the strip goes towards the amp. With Decware amps, I'd doubt it would matter.
3.9 has been standard since day one, except for a shport time when we used a difference HiVi tweeter. I like that tweeter better in the ERR's but they change it (cosmetically, so they say) and ruined it.
Bob