Mark, that rarely happens around here, a mis-delivery, but I bet it wasn't our normal UPS fellow, who is as nice as can be and certainly knows this address as lots of packages come in--he says I'm his job security.

I got a chance to go up and listen unexpectedly and couldn't resist setting the second SDFB up with the power cords and used the Super Sluggo. I mean the Super Sluggo is great--I just preferred the High Purity Copper by a bit. Another advantage, the Super Sluggo has more a week or so of use on it, it's broken in and I know how it sounds. That said: it's a nice blend, the High Purity Copper in the P15 regenerator, and the Super Sluggo in the SEWE300B. Having two SDFB gives the sound (so far) just a bit more meat to the instrumental texture and tone and a touch of mellowness that is welcome, the presentation pushed back just a bit, the way I like it in this room.

Of course after about 30 minutes of listening the mail arrived with the High Purity Copper Sluggo you sent! That's how it works. I'll give the Super Sluggo a few days before swapping out.

I also have three SDFBs, which allow me to put Sluggos in every fused component in my system (five total). Between those and the Furutech outlet, it really has made a dramatic difference. Plus Mark is always coming up with something new (that man needs to take a nap once in a while!) This is the sort of thing that makes this hobby so much fun.

I have a feeling the STL Super Rectifier I'm ordering will be the last major addition I make to the system for a while. I'll be putting a Sluggo into that as well... Not sure if I'll need an additional SDFB to make that work...

If my girlfriend knew how much money I've sunk into the unseen space between the wall and the amplifiers... Well, normal people don't do that!  ;D

@Lon

Sigh of relief

@bloodlemons --- normal  :)

Graphene looks like it will be

5 x 20mm  $250

6 x 32mm  $350

Only wish I had a way to do better

Trying...

Thanks

Mark

PS

@Kamran - Thanks for your note

I don’t recall who it was but I recall a member here years ago saying that they kept a close eye on their amp and weren’t worried about terminal damage, so they put a solid bar where the fuse would go and just rolled with it. It would be interesting to hear how the SDFB compares to no fuse at all.
I currently have a UFO25 and a p2p zkit with diode rectification. I went through a phase where I replaced the fuse with a silver bar, and eventually just replaced the whole fuse/iec socket with a Furutech socket and no fuse. It sounds great, I watch my gear closely, and accept the risk. But I still wonder if I’m missing something that the SDFB adds? Anyone?

I am with you Gilf. Also running my clone SE 84 full out with a 4 gauge 20mm copper jumper in the IEC fuse holder. Your probably not missing anymore than anyone else is missing after the initial change when adding new stuff to a revealing system.

I am happy with my system’s sound and really got sidetracked with updates by listening and cleaning new to me vinyl and tape. I have a few things on the back burner that got delayed because of this. Like, eliminating all fused IECs with a thermal central control system with an overkill 50 amp DC relay shutdown, finish with DIY Decware inspired interconnects, build an articulating stand for the Otari, and build or finish the right speakers for my space.

Wondering what you notice when eliminating the fused IEC as compared to jumping it out?

Well I beg to differ. I think the box itself is very transparent. I tried it with the fuse in place before changing out to a Sluggo and really discerned no difference. The biggest signature is likely the additional power cord, and in my case I'm using identical ones before and after, which sortof negates differences. In this particular case I think he is most missing the protection the box provides.  

This second SDFB implementation in the system even in these early hours is very intriguing. Adding it the Decware SEWE300B amp in place of the Audio Magic M-1 has had a more than subtle effect on the overall sound. There is even more “blackness” behind all the sound, and this gives instrumental imaging a bit more solidity and “reality.” I’m especially noticing micro-dynamics with a bit more clarity, enhancing overall dynamics with a dash of vividness. And as a lover of piano I am noticing both the “touch” of the pianist on the keys and pedals seem more natural and the resonance of the soundboard and the interplay of this with the room and microphone gel together alluringly.

I didn’t really expect these differences to be so defined. It does make me wonder what an SDFB on the DSD Mk II might bring out. Sigh. My wallet hurts. Maybe when my return money from the Loki Max arrives . .

Bloodlemons, I haven’t looked at the fuse in the STR yet, I’m guessing it’s 1.6-3 amps. The 10v 3 amp heaters pull around 0.28 amps at 120v so almost 0.6 amp draw.

I haven’t tried putting a Sluggo in the STR yet.

Lon, I would NEVER talk someone into buying ANYTHING for their stereo… I have found that with many things cables, footers and Sluggos once the last link in the chain is complete there is another bump.

My experience with adding Sluggos is the first one was a significant step up from the SR Purple. Each sluggo after was a nice step up, finally the last component had a Sluggo installed and it was another large jump.

Simply the first and final component had the biggest impact. The in betweens were more linear.

JB, the first month I was experimenting with the SDFB Sluggo combo I did try eliminating the SDFB with the Sluggo in. It was a very slight change. I wrote about it in this thread. Was it the SDFB or because I was doubling the length of the PC and making more connections? I don’t know. It was the same PC on both sides of the SDFB.

A fuse is a safety device and the SDFB is a safety device. The Sluggo is the “improvement” I  leave my stereo on and unattended while I’m in other areas of the house or outside. I don’t feel comfortable bypassing the safety.

Friday afternoon I placed the 2 graphene Sluggos into my fuse burnin rig using the Frycorder 2. Tuesday I’m going to take them out. Tuesday or Wednesday I should have another report after more time on them.

For those who are doing the calculations. Yes, the math doesn't work as it is .25 amps per tube. I'm going off of what the Torus reports the draw at, which is in .1 increments.

Kam, do you think that the impact of the third SDFB was so intense. . . possibly because of the component itself? Perhaps that component needed the jolt and drive of the SDFB more to be all it can be? Just wondering why the third one was such a charm.

Thanks for explaining those levels of improvement. Helps me to imagine and ponder.

Looking forward to your graphene Sluggo impressions. It's pricey. . . and I really like the two Sluggos I've auditioned. . . but there's always a "what if" and FOMO factor.

Thanks!

bloodlemons wrote on 04/14/24 at 20:56:14:

I would not rest easy with the Sluggos without the devices either.

One thing I neglected to mention in my review is that the there was a significant impact to the lower octaves as well – I haven’t heard bass this good in the system.

Lon, there is something to the jolt idea. I went from a 2A fuse to a 3.15A rated SDFB as recommended by the manufacturer.

Low end improvement is the first thing I notice with the Sluggos/SDFB as well. Deeper and wider, without bloat. Really nice.

Let us know what you think once you get the SDFB in place. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. It's the kind of improvement where you don't know what you're missing until you hear it.

bloodlemons wrote on 04/15/24 at 00:08:33:

Thanks. I've noticed a little bit more bass with each SDFB but I'm always thirsty for more--my room sucks in that regard.

So it seems the next logical progression is for Decware to (1) incorporate the SDFB into their products or (2) offer a compatibility option of a un-fused power inlet to use with the SDFB. There is no reason for a fuse holder to accept a sluggo in the “zen” mentality.

I agree. . . this sort of device is not something Decware would most likely offer with their components. This is for the individuals who pursue further into the audio jungle!

Today with the system being warmed up and run in since 4:00 a.m. I can really hear improvements brought by the second SDFB. And I can hear the characteristics that I really did like about the Supper Sluggo in the SEWE300B blending so well with the characteristics that I really liked about the High Purity Copper Sluggo that I preferred by a bit and have in the P15.

(And thank all that be for the ZROCK2--that device continues to be an amazing tool for tailoring the system; looking forward to see if the ZROCK3 will win over the ZROCK2 in this system--I'm 31 on the list right now.)

There definitely is an advantage to having two SDFBs in the system, and in my case if only two I think they are in the right components. The different Sluggos also add an element of tube-rolling, something I must like to do as I have been doing it since the early 'nineties with my old EICO integrated. . .

Soon I bet. . . the Snubway!

I have 3 ZROCK2, one in each system, and they have become essential elements of my playback experiences. One has all the mods and Miflex caps, one has all the mods and Jupiter caps, and one has Jupiter caps and the Bypass mod.

I'll be selling one when my ZROCK3 arrives (that's my guess--not likely that the ZROCK3 will be the least involving of them!)

Last night and this morning I am hearing  wisps of tone and texture that I haven't before. The second SDFB with the Super Sluggo has really added depth and an ease to the sound. More of an improvement than I ahd anticipated. Dang. These devices are serious audio "wins."

I let the graphene Sluggos cook in my custom rig with a Frycorder for around 60 hours. I put them in—DAC and amp replacing copper Sluggos—yesterday a little after noon. I didn’t get to properly listen until after dinner.

Wow! the resolution from top to bottom is insane!

Playing some Brent Lewis tracks the drums attack was the best I’ve ever heard. Placing instruments and singers in space is also very well defined.

The music has a very natural sound and texture. Most of the ultra detailed systems I’ve heard come across as a show piece, not something I would want to live with on a daily basis. The graphene Sluggos are don’t have that quality.

I did listen to a song or two right after I put them in. The few hours between turning the system on with the graphene Sluggos and after dinner I did notice that the bass was starting to fill out a bit more. This was a concern, as much as I enjoy “hearing it all” I do like it to have a bit of sexy swagger. The copper Sluggos have this, just not as much resolution as the graphene.

Me being impatient decided to swap the Sluggos to components that are on 24/7 to speed up burn in and see what the final.

Upon taking the Sluggos out, one of them had some of the graphene flaking off. I contacted Mark. He is committed to offering a top tier product, I’m going to be sending them back so they can figure out what is going on.

I’m looking forward to what is to come. I’m still blown away with how 20mm of metal can have such a profound change in a system that has 10s of feet of signal travel along cables.

GroovySauce: Thank you for posting that experience. Is it correct that your takeaway was essentially:

1) Graphene produced best spatial imaging and overall resolution you've ever heard in your system;
2) Graphene is very detailed, but not in an unnatural or clinical sense;
3) Graphene bass is leaner than Copper, but may fill in more with use.
4) Copper is still more ideal in bass department for the time being.

Is that about right? Also, as far as the graphene flaking off, how many times did you swap each one from one fuse-holder to another? To me, it's not surprising that a thin coating of graphene would scrape off if swapped in and out of a sharp metal fuse-holder several times. It will be interesting to see if Mark's team can find a way to make the graphene more durable without affecting the desired sound signature.

I'm pretty sure the "Gold-plated copper" is the Super Sluggo. The Super Sluggo is described as "High Purity Copper with Gold Immersion". . . .

The two sizes are the two standard fuse sizes, 5 mm x 20 mm (small) or 6 mm by 32 mm (large). Most Decware components use the small fuse, a few like the ZTPRE and the ZLC the large fuses.

Quote:


For #1 I’m going to break it into two questions.
1a. Graphene produced best spatial imaging? Sort of, It was very detailed and vivid. Nice level of aliveness. The bass wasn’t quite to the same level yet, It was getting better and better. I have a hunch that with more time the bass would have fully filled out and then it would be a true statement.
1b. Graphene produced best overall resolution you've ever heard in your system? Yes.
2. Correct.
3. See above, This was me reporting live type of comments so nothing is final. I did hear the bass coming in more after more time.
4. This is a tough one. The bass had more detail and precision with the graphene. Copper was a little silkier, had the sexy sashay that the graphene was still trying to learn. Again, I think the graphene was heading that direction.

I want to stress that burnin is a wild animal. The first 150-200 hours of burning in the Lampizator TRP I thought I made a terrible purchase. It sounded really bad, I felt sick to my stomach spending so much money and having it sound lousy. Now I'm over the moon with the TRP.

Twice out of the components and once into the burn in rig. The rig is a bunch of fuse holders daisy-chained together. The ones that have a spring and you screw the cap on. So not much stress.

The Furutech fused IEC holds the fuse TIGHT. Removing the fuse is a struggle both from the component and from the little plastic piece that holds the fuse.

Hi Guys

I've been caught up with some details these last few days - I really need to get back here and make sure we are clear about each Sluggo name

Not being lazy - just being crazy

Thanks

I thought I had the Super Sluggo in the SEWE300B in the right direction. . . but was noticing what sounded like out of phase bits (just similar) and reversed the direction. . . and darned if it doesn't sound even richer and more laid back!

These components and accessories and tweaks sure keep life interesting!

Mark,

Milled from a solid aluminum billet - now that's what I call quality😊. And it's well worth an extra two weeks. Thanks for going the extra mile for your customers👍.

HK