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Fully balanced DACs like your May and my Denafrips (probably Lon's too) do separate digital to analog conversions for each of the 4 phases of a balanced signal: the plus and minus phases of the left and right channel. The two phases, plus ground is why balanced XLR cables have 3 connections. When you difference the two phases, in theory it cancels out the digital artifacts from the conversion, as well as the common mode noise that has historically been the reason to run balanced. And this (at least theoretically) is higher sound quality.

So the the question about the ZBIT is two fold: first is how does the May convert the balanced signal to single ended to output on the RCA jacks? I don't know, but the most common way is to just use the positive phase and throw out the negative. Which means you'd only be using half the DAC for which you paid. The ZBIT does it right, it uses a transformer to difference the plus and minus phases and gives you a single ended signal that includes all DAC for which you paid.

The other question is how much do you care? I run my digital signal fully balanced to the speakers, and while it is hard to do an apples to apples comparison because of cables, for me the difference was enough to buy two amps instead of one. My journey is longer than I need to include in this post, but long story short I found out early on, before balanced DACs, that balanced in general made a big difference in my system and balanced made a noticeable difference with my current DAC. But that is very much JMO/FWIW/YMMV.

Agree, this is a great topic. For me, probably the biggest impact and certainly the biggest bang-for-the-buck was getting 4B32 Xeon rectifiers for my STR. The only other "gear" I bought was the Gcube "grounding box." It is a nice upgrade to my digital front end for a few hundred dollars, but not as big as the tubes.

I will say my plan for this year (and hopefully every year going forward) is to spend more on music than on "stuff." And I succeeded. The music is really the biggest upgrade to my system, and the thing that makes me excited to listen.

Back further in time. . . Bix Beiderbecke "Jazz Tribune" RCA 2 cd disc 1

Hi Tony and nice thread topic.  Hopefully many will join in to share.  
I agree with you on the wonderful Carver C-9.  What a nice find for a couple hundred dollars.  Granted not all recordings sound better with the C-9 but some are just jaw dropping and many seem good with or without it engaged Besides the SQ it keeps me busy getting up and down pushing buttons 🤣.

Another purchase I made this year that is absolutely stunning was getting my first Type 45 Amp.  I purchased 2022 Alan Eaton 45 Mono’s for $1200 with 3+ sets of tubes locally.  I realized this isn’t  necessarily low cost but for mono’s that sound this good it is a crazy deal.  Every time I listen I am surprised how good these monos sound for how simple, compact, light and with only 3 tubes per block.  Music is so real sounding, 3D/holographic and just floats throughout the room.  

Who’s next? 👂

Cold, snowy morning. Had a nice leisurely breakfast with one of my sister-in-laws and brother-in-laws . . . well the food was not great but the company was. . . and now after a few episodes of Project Runway All Stars wtih my wife I'm in front of the system for the first time of the day.

Starting off with

Marcus Printup "Unveiled" Blue Note cd

Here's my two cents. . . .

If your DAC output is 2 volts single-ended or above, I don't think you really NEED a ZBIT. I bought a ZBIT because at the time my DAC output was about 1.3 volts single-ended, and I needed the 2.6 volts or so balanced XLR output for my Decware amps, using the DAC volume. When I moved up the chain to the manufacturer's new model DAC and its single-ended voltage output was 2 volt I really didn't NEED the ZBIT any longer but my best cabling was XLR from the DAC and it made sense to just keep the ZBIT in place. It still is and I really like it, but if I had one more set of the exact same single-ended interconnects (which cost more than the ZBIT) I could do without it I suppose. So if the voltage from the DAC is high enough I would say it's not a necessary addition to the system.

As for a preamp--the SEWE300B / Sarah (for some reason I don't like to call it Sarah) amplifier has in my opinion the perfect preamp stage built into it and I used a fully-modded CSP3 preamp for a while but found it was just not necessary--it created a super dense sound, and I love the density of my system (with a ZROCK3) but prefer the sound of the system without a preamp. So if you have the requisite voltage and your DAC remote volume control is great, you can forego a preamp with the SEWE300B.

Just how the implementation of the SEWE300B has evolved in my system over the last two and almost a half years.

2025 is almost over, and whew, what a year for buying and selling gear.

I was reflecting on the one low-cost purchase of the year that surprised me the most. I have one in mind, but I thought this might make a good question to ask the Decware community.

What one relatively low-cost purchase did you make in 2025 that brought you the most listening satisfaction? What did you add to your system that delivered the most bang for the buck?

For me, it was the Carver C-9. I cannot remember who first brought it to my attention; most likely, it was “4krow,” who rebuilds these units from time to time and sells them, or from the descriptions of “red pill sanctuary.”

The C-9 is a little peculiar, and it can be finicky. It may not be right for all listeners, but if you spend a number of hours each evening in the same chair as I do, it can knock your socks off. A relatively low-cost addition that has had a large positive impact on my listening enjoyment.

Did you make a similar positive addition to your system in 2025?

Hello fellow fanatics and musical alchemists....


I have a Sarah 300B coming this weekend... fantastic! I have a question regarding the best way for me to modulate volume control.

Currently my digital stream consists of:

-Roon Core Mac mini --> Nagra Streamer - Cardas Clear USB --> Holo Audio Spring 2 Level 3 - Silversmith Fidelium RCA Interconnects --> Amp.

I currently modulate volume through Roon, with my Nagra Streamer set to "Device Volume", which I believe uses the Holo Audio DAC to modulate volume. (?). This seemed to my ears and little testing to be the best sound.

QUESTION:
What is the best way for me to modulate volume with my Sarah 300B?

I would guess that modulating sound via Roon setup to Device Volume and using my DAC's volume control would be best.... but is there a better way?

-I hear about the ZBit as a way to utilize my DAC's XLR outputs... is this worthwhile with my DAC?

-Is there a preamp that is as simple and pure as possible, that has a remote?

-Is my current method the "best" way to modulate volume with my setup?

THANK YOU!
Richard

I'm seriously interested in your ZSB, if it's still available.

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Basically, although I'll never say never. Usually this is just internet graffiti. Beginning hackers (we call them script kiddies in the biz) start out by getting a script aka bot that crawls the internet looking for sites with software vulnerabilities, and the code for the Decware forum is almost 20 years old so it has lots. Since chatgpt it is easy for these bots to read a forum and make posts in coherent and basically correct English. The script kiddie gets their hacker Tenderfoot badge and that is almost always the end of it. To actually run a reasonable scam takes a lot more sophistication and usually a person in the loop. You might remember until a few years ago the bots would post a link, and that was potentially a lot more dangerous. This is just a (small) waste of bandwidth.

Moving to the next pile of stuff in the tech shop that was acquired this year, I finished another project with a profound effect to the texture of sound. During this past winter there was a thread that centered around ground boxes. Some of the folks here found a relatively inexpensive box that connected to an unused input of DACs. The conversation got my attention creating a thirst for knowledge of the workings of such a simple device that does not complete any normal electrical circuit but can change the character of my system. Oops, getting ahead of myself.

Forum member Will joined the conversation giving his experience with ground boxes when I questioned the validation of this box and compatibility in my system. I retained some of his experience and found some interesting reads and builds of ground boxes ending in the purchase of some rocks last spring along with basswood. That material sat on a tech shop shelf until a couple of days ago



It took a few hours to break the crystal rocks down to the size Will recommended. Most of the rocks were desirable for this project in a purchase found on Amazon. The crystallized structure which lends to the piezo effect are the ones used for this project. The other rocks with a more sandy dusty composition were not used and fortunately not plenty in this lot. A tack hammer and small anvil on a clamp mount vise was used. Some of the crystals shattered easily while most required hits at different angles. I found a good hit on the pointed areas worked well.



Basswood also displays piezo effect(more then most wood). A package of 6×4×1/16 inch was purchased for the box. I glued up two layers for strength. This made a workable box that held up well during assembly of the ground box complete. A finishing hardwood wood box to fit the basswood box would make it more durable. As is, it would most definitely break into a multitude of pieces if dropped. Also, a heavy copper cap was used to increase the contact with the crystals. It looks to be a 3" copper sweat cap. It was found for a quarter in one of my many visits to fleamarkets this summer.



Undoing the copper weaved sheath took some time. The braided wire was salvaged    from old high quailty video ICs. The ends that will be installed in the box are soaked in 5% vinegar to clean making  better contact with the crystals.



The finer spoils of the broken crystals was used at the bottom of the box to help seat the cap. A few strands of wire was soldered to the cap.



Strands of wire are worked into crystal rocks when filling.



The assembly resting on the left power bench. The lid will need sealed(glued) eventually. The box weights over 5 pounds. Lifting it with the garment peg is asking for a mess being it is just tightly fitted. I may add some different piezo material that has been ordered for future projects down this rabbit hole..



A plated crimp lug was used to connect the Stoke DAC to the box.



The sound difference was immediate. Texture in layers is a good choice for the difference it makes. It needs to settle in before any judgements can be made. Dead Can Dance was first up with striking drum skins that are more vivid then without the box. This seems to carry thru with all instruments and voices. 30 minutes into the album there was static discharge heard thru the speakers. A one two punch that only could be the result from breaking the crystals up. I think. It has not happen before or again in the 10 or so hours of listening since. A little better shot of the Charoit showing the box in place.



Less than $40 was the total cost of the project for crystals, wood, and copper cap
I had the rest of the materials laying around. So far a cheap mod that is paying off big. I was listening to Sarah McLachlan's Freedom Sessions CD last night while writing this post. It was an album that I've used over the years to judge systems. It became a total distraction forcing me to set the phone down. Chills developed. Never happened before in the many years, times, systems this album was spun(including the Charoit).

Yeah it is a bot. There are at least 3 others that I have seen lately.
Harmless???

Bill Carlsen "Devine's Wisconsin Roof Orchestra 1926-1928, Bill Carlsen And His Orchestra 1929-1931" Jazz Oracle

Hot dance stuff. I think I own every Jazz Oracle release and should continue listening to them again.

Bot is what I thought at first blush—Glad I wasn’t alone.  Yes, please share your system, including cables being used.  We would love to know.

Man the system is really sounding great!

Continuing my re-visit of the second half of Yes' career. . ."The Ladder" Eagle cd . . . .

Hi Alan,

I never had Darlington Labs, but I do have a Ned Clayton Cinemag 1254. The Clayton SUT replaced a Audio Technica 630 and was a game changer for me. I wasn't quite happy with the AT and wasn't sure which ratio I needed on a new SUT so the Clayton gave me options. The improvement with the 1254 over the AT matched everything people were saying about it very smooth and open, just sounded very musical to me. I had no urge to look elsewhere for a better SUT and that lasted two years of daily use. Then one day I saw an ad for a Decware ZMC2 that was half off the cost of new so I bit. While the change wasn't as drastic as the AT to 1254 it was pretty substantial sonically. Music was fast, detailed and the soundstage was larger in every direction. I haven't gone back to the 1254 since. I would say if you are chasing the cutting edge of things go with a ZMC if it's within budget. Little known fact, the ZMC 1 & 2 use the same transformers, they can be wired for one ratio or the other. Useful if you can solder and ever change cartridges or want to try a different ratio. If you don't care to chase the cutting edge and want a solid SUT with ratio options on the fly I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Ned's 1254 SUT. One thing One wonder I do have the 1254's, would there be a sonic improvement if the transformers were wired directly without switches like the ZMC.

Neds boxes are always available on ebay. Grab a pair of the green Altec Peerless 4722 classics and you have a starting point of what a classic sut sounds like. Ojas recommends the 4722's for a "classic" introduction. I think they even snag as many as they can for their own resale.

There's a pair ( not affiliated ) for 475.00 shipped on ebay right now. If patient they can be had for approx $500 pair on a fairly regular basis.

Good luck !

Lol.  Apparently, I must have two posts before I can PM you.  But this makes two!  Lol.

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I agree with James…you seem like a bot to me as well.   I reviewed  your last 10 posts…and something is off ( sentence structure, grammar, choice and usage of punctuation).  Prove us wrong and tell us about your system.  

Hi there... I wanted to see if anyone had any insights or experience that might be helpful in trying to decide on a potential upgrade.  I have had a Darlington Labs MP-7 and later MP-8B hooked up with the SU-7, which is a head amp that functions as a step up transformer.  I have liked both of them with my turntable and Rachael.  Recently though, I have been thinking about going to a traditional step up transformer -- the Ned Clayton Cinemag 1254.

I don't really know what kind of difference this will make, though I do know that the 1254s are highly regarded.  I don't really use any of the configuration options in the SU-7.  Any thoughts?

Thanks!

-- Alan

Yes, still available and it’s the latest revision as far as I know, purchased ~2020. Send me a pm and we can discuss more.

Checking to see if you still have this available and which revision is it?  Cheers!

A warm day--55 degrees right now! I was outside doing a few chores, and Lucinda had a PT appointment we went to.

Finally I get to sit down in front of the system for a bit. I dug this 2 cd set out this week to listen to, it's been a while. A killer band. . . I sort of think the two synth players are a bit unnecessary, but if Stan wanted them why not. Supposedly the last recorded concert for Stan.

Stan Getz "The Fiinal Concert Recording" Eagle cd disc 1

Sorry Jeffree but bots on this site have been an ongoing problem and you sound like a bot to me. I'm curious if you're using AI to write your posts? Please tell us about your current system.

RY, I would say. . .use the tubes you get with the amps for hundreds of hours. No need to really roll tubes until the amplifier is seasoned in. Personally I'm not a fan of the Cryotone tubes, the output tubes are good, the rectifiers my least favorite in their line, and the input and driver tubes are good. . .  I just in general prefer a different sound and presentation than the Cryotone's give, and have stopped using those that I had and use NOS and Chinese tubes now instead.

Below is my experience after over two years with the amp. I have done a lot of experimenting but as always it's my room and tastes reflected in these choices. Other owners will hopefully weigh in with other experiences.

First off: you are correctly identifying the driver and voltage regulation tubes.

I do have a lot of exprerience with the Sophia Electric Aqua II, but not the Aqua III. I did experience a few glitches with the Aqua II in the amp, and so moved on to other rectifiers. I found heaven with the Psvane 274B-Z--that's my favorite tube, which I use with both Shuguang Black Treasure 300B-Z output tubes which I really do like, and also with Linlai Dream Series 7300B-D output tubes, which are very interesting tubes, more "analytical" sounding to me than the Black Treasures, and good for some listening sessions with some material. I also occasionally roll in another rectifier with either output tube pairs, a Linlai Dream Series 274B-D which is a great match to the 7300B-D and also give a bit of "pep in the step" to the Black Treasures.

For input tubes after a lot of rolling I have settled on Holland made 12AU7 as the input tube, but as you have a stock of 12AU7 when the amp is seasoned try what you have. And for driver tubes I've moved to French 7308 type tubes with slanted dimpled getters. . . these are a tricky match, but with the other tubes in this complement a very good one. For the voltage regulation tubes I have tried many combinations and keep coming back to English made 75C1 tubes, dark coated small tubes presenting with lots of texture and richness.

It's hard to make this amp sound bad, and with different tube complements can sound like a different amplifier. . . it's almost as if there is a multiverse of amplifiers in this one chassis. You'll have fun exploring after it has seasoned in and taught you what gain structure etc. you and your room like.

Hello all,

I have been combing over these forums and I have been delighted and excited, as I await for my first foray into Decware amps with the Sarah 300B SEWE300B.

I am trying to get a sense of the current, most up to date, word on tubes for this amp.

I will be getting a mint condition Sarah SEWE 300B with a complete bundle of the Wathen Cryotone tubes. From what I hear, this is a great set of tubes!

After reading through the forums, I become curious over potential tube rolling the 300B and the Rectifier tubes. I have already a bunch of nice 12AU7 gain tubes that I understand I can try in the Sarah's input tube... (yes?)

300B: I am curious about the Western Electric tube, of course, but I do not hear overwhelmingly positive remarks on the tube... and I am hearing about reliability issues as well... I will give a listen to my system with the Wathen Cryotone 300b's and take it from there... but have the reliability issues with the WE 300B been addressed?

RECTIFIER TUBES: I also hear that the Cryotone tubes are good here. I am curious about the Sophia Electric Aqua II, but I understand there are reliability issues with that tube in this amp. HOWEVER, it seems Sophia Electric has a new Aqua III which they claim addresses these issues.

Has anyone tried out the Sophia Electric. Aqua III Tube?

https://sophiaelectric.com/products/new-sophia-electric-aqua-iii-274b-rectifier-...
tube-with-live-like-sonic-performance

I also hear about the Stradi 5u4G tube, from Korea. How does this compare regarding sound to the Sophia Electric Aqua??

DRIVER TUBES: Are these the taller tubes in front of the 300b's? Are these worth rolling from the Cryotone?

VOLTAGE REGULATOR: Are these the three tubes in the center in front of the Rectifier? Are these worth rolling from the Cryotone?

THANK YOU ALL!

Welcome, Jeffree. I don’t speak for Decware and I’m not a forum moderator, just a casual participant in the forums since 2023, and a perusing non-member for two or three years before that. I’m here to learn more than anything, so these are just my thoughts and not my thou-shalts.

This forum is a great community of seasoned Decware aficionados and music listeners waiting for their orders, and a tremendous resource. What I have seen, and shared, is usually items in the classifieds that a member is upgrading from, and removing from their personal system. I feel like prices are usually extremely low, with the exception of nice Decware pieces that price accordingly but are offered to the Decware community before hitting the open market. Transactions are typically safe because everyone somewhat knows each other- sort of.

So my advice is become part of the community and if you have an item you’re parting with pass it on for someone else to enjoy. There are many other places specifically focused on the audio marketplace, such as Reverb and USAudiomart, among others, if that’s your intention. Also, this forum gets the occasional blast from scammers and bots, so being part of the community first and people getting to know you and your system first helps differentiate you from the noise.

Just my two cents.

I am open to any offers on the remaining tubes, which are:

2 Raytheon OB3A
2 RCA OC2
2 Raytheon OC2

Thanks everyone!
Chris

Hello everyone,

I’m glad to join the Decware community and would like to contribute in the Classifieds section in the right way.

I’m currently interested in learning more about buying or selling used audio equipment that pairs well with Decware amplifiers, such as high-efficiency speakers, cables, or tube components. I believe this section is a great place for members to share trustworthy listings and helpful advice.

If anyone has experience with:

safely trading used Decware or compatible gear,

tips on pricing fair second-hand audio equipment,

or general Classifieds guidelines that new members should follow,

I would really appreciate your insights.
Thank you to the moderators for maintaining a high-quality marketplace and community.

Best regards, Space Waves Game

The DGR is going to look sweet sitting beside my UFO25!

Purchased in August of 2021 these light colored (maple?) speakers have the upgraded Silver 10 drivers (and are IMNSHO much prettier than the piano-black ones which are apparently the only option these days). They are in as new condition both cosmetically and functionally. Always stored in a heated, non smoker home, with only light use. 100 db efficient.
They are located in Northeastern Indiana near Fort Wayne. I do not want to pack and ship these speakers but will assist in the safe and careful loading and packing into purchasers vehicle.
New ones from Lii-Song are $3753.00 with tariff and shipping.
I am asking $2000.00 for these beauties'.
Call or text at 720-984-7509 or email at mrgeneralist@aol.com

This may be anathema to many on the Decware site, nevertheless this is my main stereo:
A local "stereo-guru-built" six-way, active cross-over and "split" (tubes and FET) pre-amp (split at 800hz) Ranges are: 50 hz (and below), 50 to 250 to 800hz then 3500-and above with passive crossover at 10K.
I use a Decware 341.6 to drive the 3500hz and above, an Analog Ethos (800-3500) and an old PSE stereo Studio IV doing (50-250), an old McIntosh 754 (250-800). An Old PSE Mono amp (200wpc) 50 cycles and below, summed R&L, driving a Hartley 24" driver mounted in fireplace doing the almost un-noticeable, ultra low "ambiance".
I exclusively spin CDs using a Wadia 270 trans. and Wadia 27i for D/A converting.
Powerful enough yet quite beautiful to hear.
Picture is using two PSEs and before the Analog Ethos was acquired.

Between all of our products we use thousands of parts, and it only takes one to stall a particular product.  Since Covid and even before, there are ALWAYS supply chain issues.  And it's not always a supply issue, many times the parts come in and don't meet quality control, or are even the wrong parts, which when that happens restarts the whole process of having more parts made.  Not fun.  While there have been several parts issues, most of those have been resolved, and things are moving along again.

Steve

That makes some sense, but it is the opposite of the WE300B which lasts longer with AC than with DC.  My honest guess, not to discredit Elrog, is that the heater design is hard to balance making cancellation of the AC hum difficult.  They don't want a reputation for tubes that hum.  With DC there is no need for hum balancing and there is no hum.  The majority of the 300B amps on the market today have DC heaters, so they should be in good shape.  Thanks for bringing this information to the forum!

Steve : )

Eddie Condon "Town Hall Concerts Vol. 2" Jazzology 2 cd set disc 2

David Bowie "The Next Day" from the "I Can't Give Everything Away" box set.

Somehow listening to Bowie makes me feel like a teenager again, even though this one was originally bought right before I moved from Texas to Ohio, and also brings back the stress and emotional shift of that transition.

Bowie was an amazing artist.

MM I use the switch to the back for my setting.

Interesting about the Cryotones. I admit I did like the imaging and the soundstage on those, but the tonality was too forward and crisp for my room and system.

Right now I am listening with the Linlai Dream Series 7300B-D in place with the Psvane 274B-Z rectifier and three 75C1 regulation tubes. I find I really like this combination for much of my musical selections. (For over a year now I've kept the input and driver tubes constant, I love their sound they are my "anchors.")I get another great "amp" sound with the Black Treasures. It's amazing what rectifier, regulation and output changes make happen with this amp.

Pulled out another Dick Cary to listen to. Great for this early morning stillness.



Dick Cary's Tuesday Night Friends "Got Swing?" Arbors Jazz cd

Woke up early, couldn't shut my brain off and listened to the "Ready For Freddie" UHQCD again, and now am spinning Duke Ellington "Volume 5, 1928" on Masters of Jazz Media 7 France cd. Just love this early Ellington. So different than most of the jazz of its time.

It's cold! My feet are a little too cool but I'm not inclined yet to go downstairs and grab shoes to take care of that!

Welcome! There is much to explore in the world of Decware. There is a LOT to digest within this forum, and if you have specific needs or wants I'm sure you'll get feedback. Happy holidays!

Hello Decware community,

I’m new here and excited to join fellow audio enthusiasts. I recently discovered Decware tube amps and was amazed by the warmth and musicality they bring to music. Listening through a Zen Triode for the first time was an unforgettable experience.

I’m also interested in DIY projects and would love to hear advice from experienced members about building or improving tube amp setups.

Looking forward to learning from everyone and sharing my journey into high-quality audio.

Thanks, Retro Bowl 26

I’m not surprised that the OPPO isn’t competitive with your transport, even with the upgraded plug.

FWIW if it were me I’d just leave the OPPO powered up and if it has a repeat function spin a disc for the next 2 days. The IEC doesn’t care if you are actually paying attention to what is playing. It will be broken in before the weekend.

Well, another interesting development...

I had do something about the OPPO BDP 103D.  Possibly an OPPO LPS kit or just retire it?  We have number of nice concerts on Blu ray and I really didn't want to retire those.  So what to do???

I read reviews of the OPPO MOD LPS upgrade and decided that investing $395.00 was not a good idea.  Some said it made a difference and others felt that there was no appreciable difference.  But in the process of reading various reviews I came across one where the inlet IEC was replaced with a Furutech F1-06 NCF Rhodium and apparently that did make a positive difference.  It took 15 minutes to do.  Well I do have some experience with Furutech Rhodium IEC's so for $50.00 less 40% on sale... why not???

I installed it tonight and ... forget about "it took 15 minutes to do".  First, the Furutech IEC has a larger body and so the opening had to be filed so that it could fit.  Next, the hook up cable is a small guage.  I didn't like the amount of grip that the screws were able to exert, IMO not enough.  So I tined the hook up cable ends and the pressure exerted by the screws was much better.

The reviews on the Furutech IEC state that you have to give it 50 hours burn in.  Of course I did not before my first listen which, turned out to be very promising.  No it did not compete with the transport.  But it is listenable, so much so that I'm going to give it 50 hours before further commenting.

My ears tell me that it will not give the transport a run for its money but it could very well be good enough for Blu Ray concert entertainment good enough as a basic starter universal player.  I should be able to put 50 hours on it this week or by next week at the latest.

I may be getting ahead of myself here, but as I am almost finished with my latest speaker build, I have to make room for them. This means that my present speakers (DNA2) will go up for sale. This is a case where it would just way too much to ship these at over 60 lbs. each, so I am looking for a local sale in Wyoming or Montana, or you know, something drivable to meet in the middle or such.
Here are some photos and FWIW, I don't have a price yet, but I will be close to giving them away for what I do ask. PLEASE NOTE: The speakers will come with drivers and crossover, but not as the SEAS driver shown, but with a Mark Audio driver instead.

 Looking at Donnie's builds gives me a bit of inspiration. For quite some time, I have wanted to build the Mar-Ken enclosure for a Mark Audio 12P. So, I bought the plans and got to work. I have been at it off and on (mostly on) for a month. This design uses rectangular ports in the front, and has a bunch of angles to it. It is doable for me, but must be done insteps where you find something else to do while the glue dries. DIY Audio has a few pages about these.

Thanks for clarifying, Steve. Not trying to discredit Decware, just passing along the information and asking your thoughts, so I appreciate it.

Elrog said they recommend only DC heating with their 300b tube "Due to the different thermal properties of the thoriated tungsten filaments these are more sensitive to the filament supply."

I have no idea what that means.  I just enjoy the stuff people smarter than me build.

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For anyone reading this, the Decware Sarah 300B amp is a choke filtered power supply with a 4 uf capacitor.  It is kinder the Western Electric 300B that Western Electrics own 300B amplifier.  Additionally, it is an AC heated, cathode biased amp, around 60~70 mA for most 300B's so there is no way to abuse the tube or set anything wrong.  The B+ is below 400V so as far as 300B amps go, I can't think of anything that would be kinder to a 300B tube.  I can't imagine why Elrog would say that.

click to enlarge

Here's a DynaGrid Jr. wallpaper.  Enlarged it is a killer picture of an 845 tube.  I have nearly finished the owner's manual and am working on the web page.  The 10 units have been built.  

Two more Blue Note 85th Anniversary discs from Japan have hit the transport.

First Lou Donaldson "Blues Walk" SHM-SACD



Then Freddie Hubbard "Ready for Freddie"

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Not yet, at least officially. I sounds like if you contact Sarah you can get on a list to be notified once the DGR goes live.

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