I find it all pretty relative. I agree with everything said, part of which, the pot Steve uses sounds pretty darned good in comparison to the attenuators he used last I checked (may be different now), and options to upgrade later after learning the amp and getting it burned in are nice.
But also, starting in revealing and beautiful places, I have found progressive improvements in timing, clarity, resolution, balances... from carefully upgrading parts by-sound in my Decware. And no doubt, smaller changes at first are easier to notice if you are playing with this stuff. And with progressive improvements overall, the improvements help each other, and I hear more, so notice the effects of parts improvements more. Your having built, and or modded things, you probably noticed this, how a little change from even a really good baseline, can turn into a bigger change after the baseline gets more resolving... that is if finer resolution and timing are musically improved part by part. Then what had been a little change can equal bigger improvements in realism.
That said, Steve is always playing this these things... signal path lengths, improving more vital parts and wires, finding design improvements for better resolution and timing musically... And it looks like he keeps using the same potentiometers he has used a long time, presumably because he likes how they work in his synergistic approach to making parts sound good together.
And I agree, I think Steve's smooth pots sound quite good, especially for the cost. If the stepped attenuators are those he used for a while, the smaller Chinese ones built with I think gold plated copper contacts, they are pretty nice too.
Something like this:

Not really state of the art to me, but decent. I used two of these in my CSP3 for input stage attenuators and preferred the sound over the little pots that were there, and the Audio log on these is pretty good in my system if I have tubes that need a little help with left/right balance. At the same time I put a nice resistor in the place of the output tube pots and that sounded more complete/complex. I found over time that I was not adjusting the outputs, but did adjust the inputs, so I went this way, chose a resistor to match the pot settings of the output tubes... a nice improvement.
But when I tried this attenuator in the place of a TKD 2511 potentiometer I had for my main CSP3 stereo volume, I thought the TKD was better for my needs, more smooth sounding, solid and resolving (it also feels this way)... bigger sounding while being more complex if I am remembering correctly. But the TKD costs something like 5 time more!
When it gets this good, it is just pretty difficult to judge these things for others with different rooms and systems... and your UFO25 has lots of cool upgrades built in, all tuned by tech and sound. Thus the 25th Anniversary of Decware's first amps! So long story short, I agree with the others... I highly suspect you will find your new amp really enticing as is.
As to pre or not, it will be fun to try it both ways with what you have, perhaps especially after the amp has several hundred hours on it. Maybe play with gain balancing if nothing else and see what you think. I never use a pre as volume myself, but love to play with gain relationships between pre stages and the amp for optimizing sound. Then usually the more neutral amp is my main volume, and I can fine tune for sound refinement for different recording balances with gain adjustments with pre stages.