will
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Hey Pip.
With your Torii, all the tubes make notable sound differences, so if you are inclined to get into experimenting with tuning your sound, you have amazing potential there with 5 tube types!
That rectifier does look loose, but when you pull up on it, it seems pretty well connected. Is the tube base still glued on the glass, or is that all socket play?
Does the amp seem to work well? Are both rectifiers lit up evenly and the amp giving good sounding channel balance? Any noise warming up, or sound or tube glow changes with gentle movement of the rectifier base while playing (don't touch the pins!)?
I wiggled my tubes in the sockets, and they are not all uniform in tension side to side...like my right larger voltage regulator wiggles easier than the left. Also the rectifiers, voltage regulators and inputs are all easier to wiggle than the power tubes. I have changed all the tubes lots of times since I got my amp...one of the first Torii IVs. But none of mine seem as loose as your right rectifier, which I agree, looks unusually slack. Question being, is it just a loose electronic connector fit in the ceramic socket spaces.
I suspect it is possible that you could have a good pin connections, but unusually loose metal connectors as they fit the ceramic socket spaces. The metal parts sort of float in the ceramic socket, lateral tension on top connecting to the pins, and the bottom soldered to wires. So though yours looks worse than it would be ideally, they are not meant to be totally snug, and if the tube pins are well connected, I think it will sound fine.
The previous owner hitting the rectifier with the tube in, hard enough to stretch the socket connections seems possible (and maybe break the tube in process), but can't say! Have you looked carefully comparing the sockets on either side. You may be able to see something different with the looser one.
If the pin connections are loose, yes, with care and some mechanical confidence and dexterity, tightening tube connectors, especially the bigger sockets having more space, is quite doable. The little socket connectors are more difficult being harder to see in detail (without help) and having less space to work. But if used to "tuning" things, are sure you know the stored power is drained from the caps!!!... and with some nice little tools around, I for one was successful tightening mine.
That actually does look like an aftermarket cable, and could well sound better than the stock cable. Don't know if you are used to removable power cables, but IEC inlets on the amp are notorious for loose seeming fits, the outside plastic "connection" being so spacious. But we still tend to get good contact with the internal metal connections, power cable to amp. And it looked on the video like yours had good grab when you pulled it. I arrange power cables for the best looking symmetrical connection and tend to leave them alone. But if it drives you a little crazy, I have wrapped the power cord IEC end with teflon tape just so, or thin damping material like Herbie's grundgebuster, and making the plastic parts fit more snuggly can make it more stable.
As to warranty, probably should check options with Decware. The way it has worked in the past, to get the warranty transferred, you send the amp to Decware, they put in all new/stock tubes they know do not have issues, and then test it. With all new tubes, and the checkup fee, it adds up, but you have had the amp looked over, have an extra tube set, have a lifetime warranty, and have gotten verification that all is well with it.
Alternately, not sure how Decware feels about this, so I would check it out, but I have heard folks suggesting waiting, and if a problem shows up with a need to send it in for repair (pretty rare for most), then could be the time to consider the warranty transfer checkup. I have had a Blue Torii for a few years without the warranty transfer.
Hope this helps!
Will
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