Lon
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"Love without guts is worthless!" Philip K. Dick
Posts: 25750
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You're right Brad, it's a 6.3. I found this post from Steve:
The small green board you see is a fuse holder that is directly soldered to the tube socket pins of the rectifier tube. It has three fuses. Two are 500 mA fuses that protect each leg of the high voltage against shorts inside the rectifier tube. Additionally there is another fuse protecting the heater windings for the rectifier rated at 6.3 amps.
These fuses protect the power transformer and the filter caps from any damage resulting from a shorting rectifier tube. Since there are several ways a rectifier tube can short we incorporated three fuses. Today where rectifier tubes are made in China, Russia, and Yugoslavia you are going to have shorts. Also since new many (NOS) new old stock tubes have been trading hands for in some cases over 60 years, they have been vibrated and beaten around to a point where many of them are more prone to shorting then when they were new, even though they have never been used.
If you are an avid tube roller, you are eventually going to blow one of these fuses. When it happens, be glad it did because without the fuses the power transformer and possibly the filter caps could have been damaged before the mains fuse had a chance to blow.
I use regular fuses in these, but there is no reason audiophile fuses that are not fakes shouldn't sound better. The thing with audiophile fuses you have to be careful of is that your spending $70 (for example) on something that is designed to blow up. My advise is do all your tube rolling with regular fuses until you find that one special rectifier tube that you can't live without and then if you want to use audiophile fuses that aren't fakes, by all means do so.
Steve
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