Quote:Seas FA22RCZ & ZOB
Yesterday at 4:46pm Modify Remove Hi there . I am rather the newb at speaker building and this will be my first full-range attempt . In fact this will be the 4th pair of speakers I am building .
I've just ordered a pair of Seas FA22RCZ drivers , and , whilst researching box designs for them , come across the ZOB's .
Seeing the response graphs in Kimppe thread ; ( Thank you Kimppe ! ) Smiley
.... convinced me to buy these plans .
Is there a cutting list available ? ( metric if possible )
I plan to build the ZOB's from MDF . I was also wondering whether there is an advantage in using solid wood for the front panel as oppossed to MDF ? I am worried that MDF may damp the response more than wood . :-?
Any help will be appreciated .
Ari Marinos
Hi Ari,
No cut-list is available, just the plans with imperial measurements. 1 Inch = 25.4 mm
Advantage to using solid wood vs. MDF for the front panel is that solid wood could look better and could last longer depending on the finishing. The reason the front baffle is so thick is to create more mass than the rest of the cabinet panels. Either material accomplishes that. While wood with grain can be more lively, the fact that there are two layers of 12mm hardwood with different grain patterns may result in a co-mass layer damped composite where the two layers fight each other with unique resonance patterns. That may give similar results to the composite MDF. Point is, the gross mass of the baffle vs. the mass of the driver's moving parts makes any differences between the two woods too hard to hear or measure.
The box portion of the cabinet, lacking a driver to inject energy into the panels or high pressures for that matter, has too little resonant energy to worry about, so it too is very dead compared to a normal speaker.
If you want to experiment, the grand experiment to do is this:
Mount the baffle on 4 pins with a felt gasket and compare that to having the baffle fully glued to the cabinet. NOTE: Since the baffle is high mass the driver should be as tightly bonded to it as possible. The ideal would be to have the speaker frame and the baffle be a single unit as in all one piece. So to that effect one could dispense with the gasket, machine the back of the frame flat, secure it to the baffle with hard setting epoxy or line the parameter with hold down clamps and screws every inch or so.
On the rear side of the driver, every surface that the speaker cone can see should be covered with convoluted foam or heavy loosely packed felt. The slot board should be all the way open. The slot board can be seen by the rear of the speaker cone. It should be covered with foam as well.
On the front of the cabinet, just below the driver, a 12x12x2 inch foam tile should be placed with the slots oriented vertically. This looks like crap on the front of the speaker, to it's usually temporarily placed there during listening sessions only.
The closer the proximity to the corners, the better it is to have diffusion panels dealing with some of the back wave on both walls. Alternately, you can experiment with checkerboard patterns of foam tiles.
The interior resonant chamber should be loosely stuffed with fiberfill. If other speakers are placed in the room, the ports of the ZOB resonant chamber should be covered with a book when any of those other speakers are being used.
When everything is said and done, you might even experiment with a 4 inch tube on the magnet of various lengths (tightly stuffed) to act as a wave guide similar to the FRX driver and see what that does to the imaging.
So there you go... one extreme to the other, too little information, too much information.
Let us know how it turns out!
Steve :)
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Seas FA22RCZ & ZOB (Read 30774 times)
