New forum member here ...
I've been wanting to build another set of speakers since completing my first build a couple years ago.  At that time I built a pair of Frugelhorn Mk3's, which turned out great.  While I liked them well enough (they imaged great), the little 4" full-ranger just didn't do it for me for all music.  I've been very interested in trying an OB design, but my listening room just isn't big enough to hold a pair of big baffles and position them far enough from the walls (my room is 12' x 19, with my equipment on the 12' wall).  After searching for something that would work for my space, and that was efficient enough to be driven by my rebuilt Fisher 400, I came across the ZOB's.  I've read everything I could find on these, and they seem like the perfect solution for me.  They will (hopefully) be replacing my modded Klipsch Forte II's.  
Right now, my plan is to load them with the TB W8-1808 drivers, based on the testing done in Steve's Part V paper.  While I'd love to go right for the FRX's, they are a little more than I want to spend (I'm all about great sound on a budget!).  I also plan to use 3/4" Baltic Birch ply for the cabinets, with 2 layers glued together for the baffle.  I've never veneered before, but may try it on the baffle for this build (how hard can it be? ).  
If anyone has any tips, suggestions, advanced warnings, etc. before I launch into this, I'm all ears.  
Thanks!
Tom (Lake Geneva, WI)

Well, I learned how to attach the baffle ... thanks to Kimppe.  And I also read that 2 sheets of ply or mdf are needed, so I'm set there.  As for the wiring, I'll probably just run hook-up wire from the speaker terminals through the box and to the binding posts.

Got all the pieces cut today.  I decided to use 18mm MDF for the cabinet.  I'll round the edges, seal and spray black.  I'm using 1-1/2" hard Maple butcher block for the baffles .... found some nice pieces from a local guy who makes butcher block tables.  It'll be heavy, but should look nice.  Unfortunately, I also ended up with 9 stitches from a bizarre kick-back incident on the table saw yesterday.  First injury in 20+ years of woodworking.  I guess it shows that you can never be too careful.  

More updates to come.  Still looking for a pair of W8-1808's .... anyone?

Tom

of the back

Thanks.  I liked that I coukd get it in the 6/4 thickness, and the construction of the block should help prevent it from warping.  Now I'm trying to decide whether to dye/stain it or keep in natural and just clear coat it.

I got them here:  http://foreverjointtops.com/

The guy makes tops in oak, maple and walnut.  Since I needed fairly narrow widths (13") he was able to cut mine out of leftover pieces.  I got both tops (13" x 47") for $100.  Pretty reasonable since full width tops go for about $50/LF.

I'm aware of the challenges with staining maple, so I'm leaning towards going with a clear coat and leaving it the natural color.  I'm also making outriggers out of maple which will match (except they are clear maple, not butcher block).  I'm toying with the idea of making some unique outriggers from the baffle cutouts, so that they will then match the baffle.  Not sure how to do that yet.  As for the driver, I plan to use the W8-1808.  I've been looking for a pair that have already been broken in if you happen to know of any!

I got them up and running!  Check out my post in the general discussion section.  I posted some pics.