C5sj, I run a pair of Rachaels, CSP2+, ZP3,ZMC, silver Ref I/C`s , and Decware power chords straight into one pr inputs of ML Aeon `i`s. Isolda sp cbls.Thats a rating of 12 watts into the 89 db aeons. There is as you know an extra tweeter, the `i`, for greater dispersion, but I just dont use it for my usage...nearfield. No prob driving them which may surprise M/L fans. We had the electricians round a month ago, they were all over the house changing fittings. After an hour one of the lads came into the front room and aked me what all was upstairs. He`d never seen anything like it.
I tried explaining but SE, phono, su, bridged, didn`t sink in...and why would it. I said I`d fire the tubes up and give him, and his mate a demo. So they`re in another room somewhere and I cranked it up way past my level. It was really loud. First some BB.King, then a track of L. Feat. Then I thought they`ll like some Chemical Brothers. Blimey it was so loud, but so solid. The lad came in and said it was amazing, then called his mate in. I told him to sit where I sit and he couldn`t believe where the sound was coming from. He was pointing into the distance behind a speaker. The boss was downstairs and he commented on the bass.
I`ve had them for 2 years now and I guess once you use them regularly you expect to hear a faithful picture everytime. Their mids and highs I find are just accurate. They are a good `window`. I want to improve my front end in the future but these stats are singing as is.
I`ve got 4 Tessla mill EL 34`s powering the amps. The Mullards I bet are sweet, . Do you get that piercing sometimes when it`s on the album, sounds like the guitars getting straight into your head.

Yes they`re the x2 `[] `s, I think modelled on an xf series. I check out the  34`s regularly on e-bay and the Mullards  always look value for money even though I imagine more than know. Thanks for the walkthrough. I should have said hi and welcome. I`m sure Steve will turnaround your Torii sooner rather than later. The torii `club`   here can get possessed. All good stuff.

My Torii Mk III / ML Vantage combo started out great almost from day 1.  However, about 400 - 500 hours into the "relationship" a bass bloom started and continued to get worse.  After consulting with Steve I tried the suggested tube changes without success and ended up sending the Mk III back for a check-up.  We got an A-OK report back from Dr. Steve but had the same issue after getting the Mk III back on-line.  Some more tube rolling failed to get me back to where I started.  I did find a reference in the ML manual to "non-existent bass", which certainly wasn't my problem, and they suggested reversing the leads on just one of the speakers.  At this point I had nothing to lose so I gave it a try and did find a noticeable difference, but still not acceptable.  Since the ML's do just fine with a Musical Fidelity A-5 and even my Taboo Mk III I have to assume my Torii/ML match was not made in heaven.  I have a pair of HR-1's on order.

Jag,

I run twin subs with my Klipsch RF-7's and Super Zen. Looking at your Martin Logan's you are in effect running twin powered subs also.

In my case my Oppo disk player and Super Zen are plugged into a Tripp Lite isolation transformer which is in turn connected to a wall socket. Additionally each of my subs are connected to separate wall sockets but all wall sockets are on a common circuit.

In an ideal world the ground of all three wall sockets in my case will drain any induced voltage or voltage leakage to individual component chassis harmlessly to the common ground circuit they are all connected to via the wall sockets. In a not so ideal world one of the grounds may provide a more direct path to ground (less resistance).

In a case where all grounds are not equal you may find as I did that current will flow from one component chassis over the interconnects or speaker cables to find the path to ground of least resistance through another component. When this happens you can get a 60hz hum introduced into the sub signal (ground loop). The induced hum may or may not be audible but it raises the noise floor in the 60hz region.

In my case low bass was a bit muddy / boomy. It actually took about a year before I realized the cause was a ground loop. In the end I used Radio Shack 36" test leads with alligator clips on each end to connect the chassis of each sub plate amp to the chassis of the Tripp Lite isolation transformer. Walla !! the slight sub hum was gone and more importantly the muddy / boomy bass.

Now I realize you don't have the bloated bass problem with your SS amp but the internal ground configuration of the Decware amp may be different. In some of their literature Decware refers to a floating ground on some of their amps.

I could spend pages here discussing ground loops (not a simple subject). Rather I suggest you might try this simple test to rule out a ground loop as your problem:

I assume you might be using some type of isolation device between your source component / amp and wall socket? I also assume that your subs are connected directly to the 110 wall socket because of their higher power demand? Attach the alligator clip of a test lead to each plate amp chassis of each speaker. Attach the other alligator clip from each test lead to the metal chassis of your source isolation device.

This will basically tie all the system component grounds together. So lets say the earth ground that your left speaker is connected to offers the path of least resistance to ground. The jumpers you install will provide all system components with an alternate path to that ground rather than through your interconnects and or speaker cables.