after building our 1st deathbox-already built a WO, so needless to say we're impressed!  -- anyway got wondering with this design--has anyone thought/tried building the box to be "tuneable" on the go?  Couldn't a guy use linear actuators to "move" the inner box back and forth to fine tune on the fly?  Just thinkin' out loud again....

Sure,

Seems like a lot of trouble though. I don't ever remember anyone saying they wanted to move the tuning once they had it set. OF course if you had someone who wanted to listen to music and use the same box for SPL, it would be one heckuva way to make an adjustment on the fly. Especially if the install was finished. If you do one like that, let us know how it turns out.

Take care,
Robert

getting the seal tight enough would be the problem.  My DB10 insert was so tight I had to jump on it to make it move.  Somehow it still let air through.  Now its caulked and has about 50 screws in it.  Funny how well that works.

If it can move air will leak, with 2 x 15's and cabin gain how much bass do you need in a car? with that kind of excursion and surface area tuning to a reasonably flat response hsould be sweet? A one tone box would gain massive Db but why? (unless its a comp car then a van full of 21" JBL GTi's and some big-ass cap's is on!)

SQ-eek wrote on 05/19/07 at 03:55:17:

???

Adrian wrote on 05/30/07 at 19:18:34:



baaahaaahahahahahahahaha.  don't you know, CHROME adds d3b33z1!!

Go easy on the ozzies fellas.
Back to dbjunkies question, I built an on the go tuneable DB210 for HT, but used two round cylinders, 1 sleeved in the other for the box and the insert. Using closed cell self adhesive foam, it was so tight and sealed, I had to wax the inside so it could adjust, and now does extremely well. I chose the round config to eliminate the sealing of square box problems. It stands in the room as a pedestal.

It sounds awesome, so clean, and will get usable tones down to 12Hz (much less db than tuned bandwidth 35-70Hz) but still clean.
I used a 3/4" threaded rod through the top plate with a nut welded on the end. Its sealed off with silicon, metal and felt washers. Actually works.
Another forum member did something similar with his traditional square DB, and he joked about putting an electric window motor on the end of the thread - if you must!

Any way I love the result I have achieved. LOTs of audio buffs have commented WOW when they have heard it, even a mate whos built a WO32 was awed.

So, can be done.