OK first off, just so ya’ll know I am serious. Today I went out and bought everything except for the wood and the drivers.

The reason I didn’t get the wood was because LOWES does not stock. 1” MDF or Particle Board. This brings up a new question: which one would be best to use MDF or Particle Board? I plan on laminating the entire cabinet in 1/4 “ red oak plywood, so the finish has no bearing to me.

Question #2 as I have posted before I planed on using the Dayton Titanic Series Subwoofers. I have been doing some research and reading as much of your old posts as I can. One thing I don’t see is a lot of  people who used the PEAVY BLACK WIDOWS, specifically the PEAVY 1505 DT – 4 or 8 the last number representing the ohms load of each driver. There are several speakers in the Black Widow Line but these are by far the ones with the lowest response. Also they are Kevlar mixed cones, and power rated the highest. The rest of the specs can be found in this PDF.:
http://www.peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/80300801.pdf

Here is the black widows 1505 DT-8 specs and price
http://www.zzounds.com/item--PEVBW1505

My thinking here would be tight bass response for music. High output for movies.
Plus it solves the Ohms, problem of two 4 ohm drivers.

In my calculations the DATONS being a 4 ohm speaker if:

If (4) were used, two drivers would need to be put in series, and the two sets of series drivers would be put in parallel, giving you a 4 ohm load over four drivers. This is optimal but very expensive another $400.00 in drivers.

If (2) were used the two 4 ohm drivers in parallel would give you an ohms load of 2 ohms. This is too close to the edge for me. My amp could release the magic smoke before you knew there was a problem

If (2) were used in Series of course you would have an 8 ohm load. As this is very safe, you are wasting a little less than half the amps power.

Now here is the key, if I use (2) of the BLACK WIDOW drivers at 8 ohms each. In parallel I would have a 4 ohm load.

Plus if I decided to go with four drivers I can get the 4 ohm models and save $240 on cost of four.

I have checked my calculations and was wondering, what you gurus think of the Black Widows???

Thanks,
Michael

Hi cavenut
(dyslexia warning, no spell check. lol)
ide definatly go for mdf, this box rearly needs to be deadend down and the dencity of thatl help, although you might run into some trouble with 1" as the bottom ports are 3/4" long, though if i were to build another one ide definatle add some internal braceing as i said it rearly does need to be deadend down.

as for what driver, im usign somethign similar to the black widdow (still one atm) and can say i get a good solid 30hz out of it and have set the protection filter on my amp to that, any less i wouldnt trust with a pro audio driver which is where the daton would come in. Again it comed down to what you want it for, its a big fat reggy sounding box im guessing the datons will emphasise that for the big boomy movie sound and the widows will give it some needed tightness at the cost of some low frequencys. Im happy with my 30hz cutoff, there rearly isnt much going on below that let alone sub 20hz, then again i use mine mainly for DJing. Only you know what you want, oh and dont worry about what handels more power this box is silly loud.
Jim

pointing out your bass tastes is going to help a lot in choosing a driver.
as far as particle vs mdf, i advise you to take the mdf route. easier to work with and a lot stronger.
don't worry about using 1" mdf. 1/4" thicker won't interfere noticeably with the ports and you will have a very solid box. i hate 3/4'' because even after i braced the chit out of a 1cube box it still wasn't heavy enough to stay where i put it. and i still get flex. so 1" all the way
also, mach 5 just launched the 15. if it performs as good as the 12, it's a winner for sure

i guess 2.2 dcr isn't a problem, considering impedance rise