hopefully you will have a new amp (thanks 2 jet) to power the 'improved' deathbox?

jet added me in his Y! messenger list...
if i won't find him there, i'll surely find him here..
gex, i've planned about using 1" plexi. now i just have to find it.
i oredered panels to make me ping-pong table. but the whole db and table didn't fit into one mdf board. i had to give up the panel on the top lid with the cutout. anyway, i ordered the top lid, just in case i won't find plexi.
mdf will be here tomorrow. i'll start work asap. with pics this time
i still have to find glue...i'm going today to the depot, to check out some glues. friggin glue, i don't know i can find liquid nails or gorrila glue over here. is liquid nails something like a nicely flowing glue ?

I would use wood glue to join the MDF since it is made out of wood.  Then to join the PLexi to MDF, I would rabbit a slot for the plexi to slide into, and fill it with epoxy.  SLide the plexi in and your done.

i'll have to ask about plexi tomorrow.
if i manage to find plexi (and at an affordable price) i'll use some kind of sealing tape.
my dad said he knows someone who worked with wood al his life, and has wood glue, the one made out of bones  :-*
i also have to talk to a guy that has a router, to round-over the halfmoon.
thanks Bob, but such a small pack can get 'lost' during shipping. guess i'll have to stick with that wood glue made out of bones  :-*

[quote author=Adrian D.  link=1147870641/0#7 date=1147966538]i'll have to ask about plexi tomorrow.
if i manage to find plexi (and at an affordable price) i'll use some kind of sealing tape.
my dad said he knows someone who worked with wood al his life, and has wood glue, the one made out of bones  :-*
i also have to talk to a guy that has a router, to round-over the halfmoon.
thanks Bob, but such a small pack can get 'lost' during shipping. guess i'll have to stick with that wood glue made out of bones  :-* [/quote]


gorilla tape! thats cool, never seen it but now I'll be lookin.
Natural wood glue will be fine on tight wood seams.
Gorilla glue and its lapages brother does a good job of filling small voids and bonds more than just wood.
I am rather fond of J rocks Plexi solution, you do not have to worry about drilling it.
Most people make a mess of it the first time around. One small fracture can compound in a short time.
at 1" plexi the odds are in your favour.

Tempered glass is pretty cheap. Has anybody ever done that?
Fairly strong too. Drilling holes would be out of the question.
But routering a channel in 4 pieces of wood, like a picture frame, but a channel instead of a rabbit grove, filling the channel with sealer, and stapleing the wood together. Then you could screw the wood frame to the box. I did this on the glass door of my equipment rack (no pics yet) and is very sturdy.

1X2 oak lumber, some sealer, and the glass is all you'd need...

Bob

i tested a new position in the room today. facing the back of the room. opposite direction to where my head is facing. in the same corner where it was untill now, only i took the db-12 away, since i'm going to be switching to a single sub "setup"
it sounds more 'natural', maybe a bit faster.
i can't wait to try the new box.
i didn't start work because a friend of mine found a few people that wanted speakers, so i've been working on other boxes. i saved a few $$ and ordered a sub similar to J_Rock's Dayton HFs but it hasn't arrived, yet. more excursion, dvc 4 ohm and higher efficiency.

this is it.
should be here next saturday.

1 piece, 170$. shipping done by a friend. he's currently in the us. should be here june 3 or june 10.
no shipping tax ftw !

Adrian, how much plexi you lookin for?

I got a couple small sections of balistic Plexi used in Cop Cars.  a little sqare about 12 x 12.  Only problem is they are really scratched up.  Not to many deep scratches though, so if you wanted to sand the piece till its smooth you could I am sure.

J. and Gex,
i'm looking for something i can use as top lid.
i'll call tomorrow a local installer to see if he could help me with the plexi issue. if by any chance i can't find some plexi, i'll send one of you guys some $$ to buy a couple of pieces if you have the time.

i called the local installer. i'm making the plexi shop a visit today. i'm going to order the panels.
i'm thinking about putting the plexi lid just like i would mount an mdf lid (on top of the box) and not router a small canal in the mdf for the plexi to fit in.

[quote author=Adrian D.  link=1147870641/15#24 date=1150285893]build complete !
although during tuning only 4 screws secure the lid (out of 20) and the insert isn't sealed in.
i just pushed the insert to the top of the half-moon. this way, the sealed chamber size is the exact volume the manufacturer recomended me.
half-moon rounded nicely. magnet in vented.
first thoughts (only 2 songs played)
tight. loud (louder than the 2cf box i used to break-in the sub). as for how low it goes, it will take some time to re-play all the songs i know. i'll be checking for port noise in the months that will come as i finally finished this school year and i'm in vacation. it's crossed a lot higher and the anoing moo-ing (remember the thread ?) seems to be reduced.
i still haven't played with the x-over. it's at the same setting i used while break-in. ~70hz.
soon to come : pics and comparison to the infinity - db10 combo.
i gave up the plexi idea. 40$ for the top lid is a bit too much  >:( [/quote]
congratulations, i recently crossed my sub over @ abut 55hz, very nice, try it some day, also i never understood people mounting subs backwards? listen to it for a few weeks like it is and then reverse the sub for a few weeks and see if you can hear the difference?  plexi glass is for show offs, plain mdf is for audio enthusiasts!

putting the magnet in vented is like lowering the insert. but you don't get the same effect as moving the insert over the port.
i moved the insert lower. right now it covers about 1" of the port. still can't decide between covered or uncovered port. it seems to go lower covered, but it's not as fast and accurate as uncovered.
this decision is going to kill me. i really like the look of the uncovered port. i wish i had a spl meter .

[quote author=Lee in Arkansas  link=1147870641/15#26 date=1150289047]
It increases the volume of the sealed chamber and provides better cooling of the motor structure. [/quote]

yea but the thing i dont 'believe' is that the sub moves equal amounts of air both ways, try bailing out your sinking boat with an inverted bucket

Someone correct me if I'm stupid and don't know what I'm talking about (a.k.a. wrong).

[quote author=bassboy  link=1147870641/30#32 date=1150317861]
If the motor is inside the sealed chamber you effectively reduce power handling by a huge amount . [/quote]

hhmmm?? im no scientist, but if the driver is rated @ 150 wrms, why would installing it into a sealed box 'reduce' its power handling?

hehe, get me some plexi and i'll video tape it.....I'll pop a 12, for poops and giggles.

Lee, I thought you were going to try Bob's idea of splashing water with an old 12.  Maybe you can do that AND fry it in a DB at the same time.  Maybe if you are lucky, the water will short the coil and you can fry the amp too.  Maybe if you get REALLY lucky the whole car will burn.

Now THAT would be a video...diy demolition, lol.

I have seen a few 4 ohm subs that will handle a wall outlet for awhile.  They get roughly 3600 wrms for a short period of time.

I have never seen that, I suppose with an older weaker spider I could make it happen.  You would need some serious BL though to get that cone to launch with enough force to break the spider, and surround- after it left the VC gap.

i just read the white papers on the db again and it seems to me like testing was done with the magnet in the sealed side of the box, even the pictures confirm it? the db duct design exerts even pressure on the cone, relieveing wobble and wiggle of the cone and therefore allowing greater power handling.

I'ts cool to see your name written by someone, it means they remembered you, that you may have made an impression. But geez bassboy!  I'd hate to be remembered by "The Driver Destroyer"  LOL

Hey Jet, just throw the damn thing in a bathtub full of water (just don't do the 120v thing  :-/)

Bob - thanks for remembering me - in St. Louis

....carry on fella's,... good discusion going.  ;D

Adrian, my first thought would be to cut the lower baffle slightly larger, but ask Steve.

My DB's are put off, yet again, due to my car blowing it's water pump. 2 nights a 6-pack of Fat Tire, and it's still not fixed.

pm sent to steve. now just pray that he answers.
since it's raining outside i may just put the magnet in the sealed chamber today.
my guess is that it won't play as low as now if i keep the insert as it is now.
i'll remove the bottom lid to see how the air moves past the magnet.
60, isobaric mounting poses the same problem because one of the subs has the magnet in the vented part.