Did you try reversing phase to one box?

John C.

i put them today in the same position.i wired the db-10 out of phase. it seems to be ok. i've tried some music (atb, mop, rage against the machine and some club music) but i have to listen to them for a while.
they sound a little "harsh" when i play music only through them. but i guess the x-overs are to blame.
i also pushed them more against to the wall ( the wall facing the bottoms, so that they fire closer to the corner ).  
i got lucky because the dbs one on top of the other fit perfectly under the piece of furniture that i have in that corner. too bad wires are coming out of the boxes or they would have "dissapeared" since they have the same finishing as the furniture.
the bad part is that the neither k-slot nor the half-moon isn't visible anymore and they are very good looking.
for the moment i'll leave them like this, for about 2 days listening. as a first thought the "feeling" is just right and i can say that it sure is good to listen again to stereo.
the x-over i've ordered has stereo input and double mono sub output. so the stereo bass is about to be solved.
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that's just what happened. i have the 12 baffle as low as possible and the 10 baffle almost at the top of the halfmoon.

yesterday, after reading some very old posts about the db-10 i decided to round my port. so i took a piece of sandpaper and a knife and rounded the inside part of my port to a radius of about 6mm or 1/4". do you think it's enough to do the inside or should i round the outside edge ? and is the radius enough ?
i put my hand once on my woofer and pushed it slightly. to my surprise i felt air coming out of the dust cap/cone as i was pushing the cone. i really don't think this is a good thing.  what do you say about this ?
the woofer has a hardened paper cone and vented pole piece.

When I wrote that I was refering to the midbass. By experimentation I have found that the lower the baffle the lower the sound ( bass) but the SPL suffers.
The higher the baffle the louder and high freq's are exagerated.
I do say this is not always the case, but has been for me.

Adrian has a excellant understanding of the DB and I was pretty sure he could figure out my rantings.
I know its not all that clear.
Sorry!
does the explaination help? there may be differant opinions out there

Gex

I get it.  
With the baffle as low as possible on the 12 and higher on the 10,
the 10 will be tuned higner & louder than the 12.  
Thanx!
Robert  :)

i have the insert on my 10 just at the top of the port and the insert on my 12 as low as possible. i managed to get a freq response from the 10 as low as 37 hz (the woofer's freq response is 35-1500 and the 37 hz note was'n very loud ) and i guess this is something good. above 40 hz to about 80 hz it's a dream. the 12 is very diffrent below about 40 hz is really comes alive and it is a LOT louder than the 10. but above 50 hz it looses a lot of output. i wanted to get this kind of response and it seems i got it.
the 10 is definetly louder than the 12 on regular music (i listen to LOTS of house/club and rap) the way i tuned it and with the woofers is used. the 12 has more "feeling" . i'd definetly go for the db-12 if i'd have 2 12s. the kslot looks brilliant.
the bad thing i noticed about the dbs is that they go wild above 100 hz. i mean my 10 had lots of upper bass crossed @ 160 with 12db/oct. 24 db/oct helps, but it would help if i'd have it crossed at 80 or so.
robert, i read in an arhived post (made by steve himself) that it's wiser to choose an iso loaded db-12 than a hwk with 2 12s because the spl is higher and the sq is better. steve also said that the lower the baffle the lower the freq response and the spl.
to get an idea about the db-10/db-12 combo all i can say is that with a 50w/channel amp (turned at about 60%) i can shake the life out of my closet in a 12/12 ft room.
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i do ? i'd wish i only knew how to find out the tuning freq.
i'll guess i'll go with one of ziggy's early posts regarding the rounding radius. he said 1/4" is minimum. i'll stick to that

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it's gonna be a killer either way you use it. one more thing : i found that correct placing is essential. it took me almost 2 months to place both of mine the way i like it.
don't consider it, DO it. it was my 2nd serious build and it took me a whole day after i had all the panels cut. as a bonus, all the mdf you'll need is about 20$. G'luck

i argue the best way to implement a 2 way home stereo is the same as you would a 2 way PA. Get an active crossover, preferably with delay and variable slopes . behringer do a stupidly cheap digital crossover (bout £140) that has 3 ins and 6 outs, i.e. you can go 3 way if you have the cabs.

Ive built both wicked ones and a 12" death box, i think to sound best with a deathbox you should place it between your main stereo speakers, and play around with moving it 20cm forwards or back untill you get the bass and low mid souding together.
My deathbox was loaded with an eminence omega pro 12", ended up having the insert about 2 inches from the bottom of the cab. Sounded good and could be crossed as high as 150 or so. with a poor driver id recoomend crossing it at about 80hz as the cabs less noticable then and gives your stereo speakers more to play with.

dont use a 10 and 12 death box together they will cancel parts of each others response out, you say it sounds louder with one, it will, no ammount of eq-ing, delay or placement will solve this.
go with the 12, cross it at 80-90hz , play with its placement a bit and enjoy. if its still sounding ropey build a wicked one instead

talking of wicked ones if anyones using one at home i reccomend delaying your mid tops (if they are inline with the mouth) about 1.53 meters and crossing at around 85

also if anyones looking for drivers for either a death box or wicked one get the beyma 12"lx60's there nails.