HI THERE  , I WAS WONDERING IF THE DBK12  WOULD WORK IN A CONVERTIBLE, WILL THERE BE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN SOUND?, ALSO WOULD IT WORK WITH ONE 12" INSTEAD OF TWO? ALSO THIS WOULD BE THE FIRST BOX I HAVE BUILT, WILL THIS BE TOO DIFFICULT FOR A BEGINNER?

convertibles are hard to get good bass in... like trying to fill a leaky bucket, you are gonna need some serious efficiency to get any satisfaction, Id say go with a simpler, more efficient sealed box of moderate size instead, since you cant count on cabin gain, aim for a low Q, say .6 or so to keep your low end extension.

If you have your heart set on a DB then you will want to select a big amplifier, and a driver that can take big power, then build the DB heavy and drive the junk out of it, thats the only way youll get any authority.  IM not saying the DB is a bad box, just that coinvertibles are a little more picky as to what you put in them.

(GRIMM, your capslock is on)

the WO is a better option for use in a convertible because it is more efficient, like a horn.  Several people on the WO forum have used them for PA with some success.  Thats just the sort of efficiency you need in that droptop.

the reason the sound disappears is simply that by dropping the top, you eliminate the cabin, and the resultant transfer function it imparts.  This is called cabin gain and it is heavily relied upon by the producers of mainstream car audio, something like +10db/octave starting around 50hz and down.  Because of this fact, if you want good bass with the top down you need some serious efficiency.

a 10" WO would definitely be sufficient for your purposes with the right amplification, besides a 12" WO likely wouldnt fit. either way, the wiring on the sub isnt the hard part in a drop, you will need some heavy EQ to get it to sound perfect, but it will be worth it in the end to spend some money on a good 1/2 octave equalizer, whether you get the WO or not.

well, a cheap option for EQ can always be found st the pawnshop, get something that will give you a good range, say 12-24db, of boost/cut, that has at least three sliders in the 20-100hz range, start these at 0db on the closest one to 100hz, and then ramp them up smoothly all the way down to the lowest slider.  Dont go much over 80% on the sliders though or your THD might get too high, along with your apparent load to the amplifier.  Basically you just need to replace the 10db/octave that the cabin used to give with the top up.  actually, because its a convertible, your cabin gain with the top up is likely more like 6db/octave...

anyways, its a costly, but easy fix, have fun with it.