Fred, there will be at least one resistor installed on the HR-1 and perhaps Steve/Bob will include another one of a different value. The resistor attenuates the output of the tweeter. Most users seem to use between 1 and 10 ohm values; I'm an oddball because I use between 20 and 50. The basic ones are cheap, and you can buy expensive ones that I think are worth it, but only when you've found the right value for your room/system.

Very easy to swap out, the leads just screw onto the binding posts for speaker wire, going from a bottom post to a top post.

When you have one value going you'll determine if you want more, or less treble output, or if like Goldilock's porridge the one installed is "just right." If you need less treble output, use a higher value resistor; if you need more treble output, use a lower value reistor. A call to Steve may help determine what to have first installed, he could likely help if he has information about your system, room, material, and "frequency balance taste". . . .

Awesome, I'm glad you are ordering a pair.  I enjoy my HR-1s thoroughly nearly every day. . . they are the speakers that stopped me looking for speakers.

so my system should look like this
BluSound Node2 DAC, VPI Prime TT, ZP3, CP3, ZROC, silver pills, ZMA and HR-1. all hooked up using a 20 year old role of 22 gauge monster cable, Just kidding, using a multitude of cables that i have collected over the years

Fred,
Having seen the ERR speakers set up this way, I asked Bob to make my HR-1s so I could change resistors and caps on the outside using binding posts.... I love this option, being able to pretty easily roll caps and resistors. A thought anyway.