I just grounded the CT wires to a chassis bolt. A popular option is to use one of your transformer bolts. Yup, looks like Red/Yl on the PCB is a ground point, so that'll work...make sure to have PCB "chassis gnd" connected to a chassis/transformer bolt! Should help keep out the squealing gremlins...
I did not fire up the PT beforehand...I installed, wired up, and then using the assembly instructions, loaded up tubes and fired it up! Kept my hand on the switch in case magic smoke erupted...but I'd triple checked the wiring and felt reasonably confident...still, it can be risky...I think the guy at Aiken amps has a guide on how to do a very controlled amp startup...but anyway, Steve's instructions on testing voltages include having the tubes in, so things are "under load" and the recommended voltages reflect that...
that being said, my incoming voltage on the red PT wires connected to the diodes is 330VAC - I too was surprised a bit by that, but regardless my other test points checked out ok (after I fixed my earlier problem!)
huh kinda funny, in my focus on all the other voltages, I never checked the heater voltage! I saw glowing tubes and went "hey, the heaters work!"
but to your question, yes I believe you can check your power rail and heater voltages once you've got the IEC plug, fuse and PT wired up - shouldn't need inputs, pots, OTs...
coupling caps - I try not to get too sucked into cork sniffery - mainly b/c my ears don't support the claims

but I was ordering the tubes from Russia (tubes-store.com, the tubes are wicked cheap!) and they had the PIO caps, so I figured I'd make the shipping price worth it!
of course, the real way to tell is listen for a while to one type, then change em out and listen again...I don't have the patience/aural memory...not to mention some caps supposedly need 100s of hours of burn in?!
hey, if you can fit em on the PCB, use em!