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05/01/25 at 10:13:31

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P1324 Questions (Read 17824 times)

Hotsauce Seasoned Member Posts: 210	P1324 Questions 07/28/09 at 00:37:22 I'm looking at options for adding some diffusion. What kind of wood are the assembled P1324? Are there choices of other wood, I'd like to have cherry or black walnut. The slats and back appear to be masonite board. Can these be real wood? John C.
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proud_indian Seasoned Member I love YaBB 1G - SP1! Posts: 202	Re: P1324 Questions Reply #1 - 07/28/09 at 04:20:52 I have used MDF and thin ply ( the king you find behind photo frames ) it works..has been working for the past 4 years!! shreekant
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Hotsauce

Seasoned Member

Posts: 210

Re: P1324 Questions
Reply #2 - 07/28/09 at 10:38:51

I'm sure yours work, as do these.

I don't want to build these myself, I'd want to order them assembled. I just want something better looking. I have a walnut floor, and all qtr sawn cherry furniture. Light colored wood won't look right.

Core sells some nice ones in american black walnut, but the guy is impossible to do business with.

John C.

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ZYGI

Seasoned Member

HR-ONE

Posts: 757

Re: P1324 Questions
Reply #3 - 07/28/09 at 12:36:46

John

The diffusers are made out of MDF. The cost to build them in real wood would be significantly higher, not just material costs but labor as well. To get all the edges that show, to be solid wood, one would have to use solid wood. Then you would have a problem gluing them up, with no glue lines to showing.

I've done some custom diffusers, where they were covered in cloth and then installed a solid wood frame around them, which looked real good when finished.

BobZ

All Decware amps and sources, Turning Point Audio speakers

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Hotsauce

Seasoned Member

Posts: 210

Re: P1324 Questions
Reply #4 - 09/01/09 at 21:36:18

My local cabinetmaker is going to undertake my diffusor project.

Because he has a CNC router, I came up with an idea to simplify the assembly.

We're going to route each well pocket to the correct depth to insure correct assembly. Now all the strips can be thin, and the same size.

As a result of this the back of the panel will be somewhat hollow. We'll see if it needs to be filled, or if it can just be empty.

John C.

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Hotsauce Seasoned Member Posts: 210	Re: P1324 Questions Reply #5 - 09/04/09 at 00:10:49 First test cut. John C.
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ZYGI Seasoned Member HR-ONE Posts: 757	Re: P1324 Questions Reply #6 - 09/04/09 at 03:39:28 John, It will be interesting to see how these turn out. Keep us posted. From what I see so far, it will turn out much like the Decware diffusers, which are also hollow on the back side, should work just fine. ZYGI
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Hotsauce

Seasoned Member

Posts: 210

Re: P1324 Questions
Reply #7 - 11/27/09 at 05:12:36

The first completed sample is in my hands, and with a few small details, I've approved it. I'm doing 16 pieces, and then once they're on the walls, I'll decide if I need more.

The frame is mahogany ply, with edge banding on front and back face. The dividers are masonite, and the well pieces are ¾" square mahogany stock.

As of yet, this piece has no stain or finish on it, I have several finish samples, and I'm still deciding.

>>LOL, just realized this is the back. They are reversable.

John C.

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MikeZ@turningpointaudio Verified Member Posts: 35	Re: P1324 Questions Reply #8 - 12/08/09 at 21:07:59 How did the finishing go on these?
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Hotsauce Seasoned Member Posts: 210	Re: P1324 Questions Reply #9 - 12/30/09 at 02:21:44 Heres my finish test pieces. The unlabeled one is danish oil. Below are the same with clear over them. I really don't like the clear, it really shows lots or orange peel, and looks like finish on wood, not finished wood itself. I'm going with danish oil, as soon as production and assembly can be worked into schedules. John C.
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mike_gagne

Ex Member

Re: P1324 Questions
Reply #10 - 01/15/10 at 07:36:20

Hotsauce, finishing is an art coupled with technique. Orange peel describes an effect of air pressure on liquid and is caused by too much air/not enough fluid in varying combinations. Generally a resand and recoat solves the issue but avoiding it is usually best. Your orange peel looks like not enough flowout caused by a lack of reducer or thinner. Increasing the thinner will likely help. When the material viscosity is too high or too thick it will not shoot well and the tendancy is to increase the air pressure to get the finish to spray from the gun. More thinner will allow you to reduce your air pressure and get proper fluid transfer.
My personal preference in finishes is conversion varnish or a precat lacquer with the precat being easiest to use. Danish oil will require redo every few months to avoid the dried out look. I cant wait to hear how your diffuser works out. I need to do the same thing. aloha, mike

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