hey gang...the 28th i got a show i want to put to ed 190v.2's in a WO for 18" subshttp://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=37 take a look at em and tell me what you think....ill put the 4 ed eu700's in a WO for 10's, in a 02 dodge x cad....off 1400 watts rms...and ill put 2 k rms to the 18"...you can got to pics annd video tab and see them play free air

Well- you can't fit anything larger in the WO without making the entire box bigger via scaling or some other way.

And as soon as you have to change the design you venture into no-man's land.  You would basically have to re-design the entire box so its works.  I don't know what else to say I guess except that you can do it- we just don't know how it will perform.

Main reason you haven't seen it is it doesn't fit in many vehicles. The design is a lot more used for cars and by scaling up to a 15" sub, you are talking a pretty big box. Since you have the van, I would say go for it and see how you like it.
MrEZ, I know you have lots of time and MDF so why not?!
Kick it and let us know how it sounds.

Disclaimer,
The WO is built on a measured angle and reaction via using the single reflex fourth order bandpass enclosure model so scaling offers a number of options when stepping up to an 18. I am one of only a handful of people I know who have ever built bandpass boxes for subs that size.
Good luck

Robert

how did it do?  also, how big did it end up to be overall?

a guy go bigger than 36x36....i guess....i do have 50" to play with......thoughts???

THATS WHAT I WANTED TO KNOW caps...my bad....next few spare moments i have ill give it a shot

[quote author=musgofasa  link=1160835651/0#9 date=1161019830]My thoughts on an 18" WO
I like scaling this thing so the basic premise is the difference in a 10" Sd and an 18" Sd. After that the numbers are generic since the design is not specific to a certain driver to begin with. I would go with 48"W x 46"L x 20" tall and here are the differences in the design. After this, you would just need to substitute some numbers into the plans for the original and start cutting. I have done this with the 12" version and was very pleased with the really deep output it had. COuld be interesting at very least to see some whoppin 18s in one of these.

[/quote]


hey mugsie,

dont you thik the 1.25 throat should be kept 1.25 instead of increasi  to 3" doesnt the sixe of the opening controll the bandpass? with the aditional height i imaging port noise wont be a problem? but you have buil way more boxes than me so i take your knowledge very seriously. i would like to one day build a big wo (18s would be fun) and scaleing it  RIGHT is something i have not seen DEFINITIVELY yet   ???

my best guess is to scale the whole box by the difference in driver cone area / size %
?

^ i guess that would make the throat 3" + or - for 18s  :-/

[quote author=60ndown  link=1160835651/0#12 date=1161438583]


hey mugsie,

my best guess is to scale the whole box by the difference in driver cone area / size %
?

^ i guess that would make the throat 3" + or - for 18s  :-/ [/quote]

Actually, now that I do the math, I think it would be between 2.5 and 2.75" but yes the cone area increase is how I made the port size equivalent.
I did the same with the 12" (1.75") and the 15" (2.25") and it sounded pretty great.
I hope this works lol. I can't wait to find out if it pounds!

LAter
Robert

EZ
If you put the side wall on the outside, will the sub clear then?
I didn't realize it was going to be that close.
You could also tilt the baffle at an angle, but I would prefer not to do that unless absolutely neccesary.
As long as the volumes don't change a lot, I don't think it will make any discernable difference to the sound.
Let me know what you decide.

Robert

Sounds good!
You got any pics yet?

The kids are excited too!  

i must of messed up guys...it was tuned way tooooo high and i got killed 3 sheets mdf+ and 1 back ( bout killed mr loading that think in to the van) and i didnt hit 135.... pics on my http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation.php?do=view&id=4652&catid=309 you can take a look...might me monday till the are up...be of line a few days...ill get back to ya guys...i need to do a 12" modle and play with it then try out the unchartered turf. the box was makeing funny noises...i stapled screwed and liquid nailed every thing??? i guess ya never know till ya try ??? NEVER SAY DIE

BTW,
GOod looking job on the box. Wish I could've been there to assist,
How are things going with the road to a new shop?

Robert

This is just me double checking- but you did seal the sides of the box right?  I just don't see any pictures with sides on and want to be sure.

If you did and its still making noises- shrink the throat for a higher compression and lower tuning.

If that doesn't work- double check sealed chamber is in fact sealed- no air or movement while the sub is playing.

ANd finally- check the amp settings- I assume you set them up correctly- but often times the difference is a sub sounding blah and good is the Low Pass filter setting (or worse yet the little switch from High Pass to Low Pass).

60...i know that i didnt waste time or wood...im learning.....robert...im going to put em in a 12 cub w 180" port tuned to 35 hz....a tl has crossed my mind
the bos was sealed well the throught can still be changed in my spare time ill play with it....i still thik it will kill stuff if i can tweek it right

you tried 1nce with that beautiful big wo and now your moving on to a different design?................dont do that, i found with all my W builds they sounded better when the throat port opening was fireing onto a surface with  a small distance between the mouth and the surface, before you take the subs out try the monster wo standing or laying and fireing directly onto a solid surface (floor or an mdf pannel) my wo in a van sounded awful until i got it positioned corrretly, then it sounded awesome. i hope at least you tried it oriented a few different ways before you took it out and gave up?  tried it indoors yet?

The sealed chamber.

Did you build it to the sealed specs of the driver?
Slide the baffle into the cc more.
Your cc looks too large, well the whole bloody thing looks too large.
How are you going to get more spl out of shrinking the port out of the cc?

It looks really boomy and not bassy.

See if there is something you may have missed or not thought about

from the wo plans page,

"Do not adjust the baffle further back in the chamber to reduce its size as a short cut, or you will increase the Q of the box to well over 1.0 (boom boom) "

anyone know how to calculate the 'q' of the 18" monster?

Duhhhhhh
I didna think of that Gex  :-/

Sometimes you need another perspective, of course the speaker barely fits on the baffle at this widest point. Of course, if it were tilted a bit.......

So Josh,
What have you been up to and what are you working on as far as TL's go?

BTW have you seen the newest pics of Meade's civic?

Sick I tell ya, just plain Sick!!

Later
Robert

obert...the 12 cub slot port is under way....the 18's are gitting sad just sitind on the shelf well 12 cub +2 18" bad boys + 2k power.....and only 180sq " port tuned to res feq of van after the wall is in...port will be removable to chang tuning comp/dd

i still dont understand why we cant scale the wo by the ratio of surface area of the sub? if the ratio of surface area to horn dimensions ? is kept the same, surely it will perform the same......wonnit? my wo21 did ok, plays very low and very accurate for a pair of cheap 6.5 inch drivers.?

only 1500....but free shipping....ps i sell ed so i should run em...lol if they wanna give me the hookup and brop the price to 200 ill take 4...lol

well the cc was made per bp specs 3.5 cub and i cannt understand how i can put my 19ov.2's in a 36 " box thay are 18.3" wide and like 8" deep??? made im just om crack

[quote author=mrezstreet  link=1160835651/30#44 date=1162937560]well the cc was made per bp specs 3.5 cub and i cannt understand how i can put my 19ov.2's in a 36 " box thay are 18.3" wide and like 8" deep??? made im just om crack [/quote]

That's why a WO for 18's won't work right.  A WO for 15's is pushing it a little too far, but can be done.  With the 19.O's the horn will get too long and lower the tuning to the point where you will lose output.  IMHO, the best bang for your buck with a WO is to build it with 10's.  12's will work good too, but from what I've done and seen not 50% better than 10's like the cone area would seem to dictate.  If you want something radical that will probably work, try building a Imperial with the 18's.  Otherwise and simple ported box will get crazy.

robert...i have not seen his latest install...Imperial you might have tyo xplan what it is...i havenot look in to it really....the slot port is ganna bumpin by this weekend i think, i need to put 2 3/4" peaces for the front...it will flush mount the subs, and thent the port will look right ( ill make it so i can change ports) so i need another sheet of mdf....lets look at  the  ???Imperial