Can anyone give me a list of things to check when it comes to top port noise? I have a HWK10 and HWK12 both quad load with descent speakers and the top speakers are center with the port. Both HWKs are making the same noise but mainly at high volume. Low volume they both play great and load the room pretty good. As soon as you start to crank the volume you can hardly hear the noise. Soon as you get to about 150w or so the noise is easily heard. Both boxes are dead on the specs. and the HWK's top port are slightly bigger(4 5/16 x 7) and the length adjustable. Please give me a list of ever possible thing to check so I can tinker all weekend and get these bean eat'en boxes to quit farting to the music. THANKS for any INFO.

When you say flared port I thinking flared to the outside of the lid? I have heard people using flared ports that are flared on both ends. Also do I need to stay closer to the 4 x 7 port or is a little bigger going to help? Thanks for the reply ADRIAN D.

the precision ports from PE are nice but reather expensive.  If you can swing them go for it.  


Otherwise:

http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/flares-25mm.htm

the diameter needs to be the same for sure.  As far as length I will have to get back to you, but I believe they overall need to be shorter.  The flare is take into account.

So if I measure from the end of the flare to the other end of the flare I should use the standard measurements(HWK10 4" x 7" and HWK12 4" x 8"). Now I measuring from the lip of each flare not where the flare shrinks down to 4". Do you think this would be a be a good place to start? I will haft to test different lengths ports for my set up but I was needing a good place to start. Besides its easier to cut stuff off than add stuff back to the port. THANKS for the REPLYS.

The site is KIILER! It gives me all kinds of ideas. Do you think some polyfill in the center chamber would help? Thanks for the info. It helps point me in the right direction and own my own I have been lost most of my life. I don't suppose Decware has a lost and found section?  DUH-HUH

HT-EXT,
  I added 1" of standard foam to the underside of my top chamber with favorable results. I cant say that it helped with port noise, because i flared mine from the beginning and never had any. That being said, I think the the sound coming from the port sounds smoother and absorbs some of the ring from the plywood.

HEY  Wreckinthehouse, I would like to talk to you about that plywood ring you mentioned. I though the embarrasing affliction my HWK has was too difficult to explain on a post, so of course if I ignore it, it'll go away, right?  So, adding foam to the inside top is all I (may) need to do to get that sick ringing gone?

Bob

use something like dynamat on the sides and the basket. this helps the ringing.

The multiple layer ply is better but stuff like baltic birch even in a 5 or 6 ply is better than fir or spruce.

IMHO

PS glad you got the Port thing worked out..    did the dimensions of the port change from the original?... I was wondering if it was the port itself.  
because it was adjustable I was wondering if it was that design that was the problem.

the port design of the HWK is generic but TS parameters are unique to the driver creating problems with some drivers and not others.
I swapped four types of 8" drivers in a HWK for fun because my original had port noise. the result was the drivers made a differance.

I built an 8" HWK for some "cast off" drivers I had laying around and I used MDF, followed the instructions to the letter, except I flared the ports to start with and it sounded really good as a bedroom sub, very low power use.

Recently, I gave it to a friend who has a lead foot as far as the power goes and there were some resonance issues. I helped him sort it all out, by using Dynamat inside the top and bottom covers, along with incorporating the "BOB JOB" inside the iso chamber.

There was still some panel flex (MDF and partical board are known for ballooning under pressure) and his WAF was not a positive number, so he skinned it with a 1/4" oak face plywood and some trim pieces, thinking it might help the flexion, slightly, but it would balance the WAF equation. Again I helped out and instead of lightly tacking the skin, which he wanted to do quickly to appease her, I used a half a bottle of glue and made it ONE PIECE ... 3/4" MDF + 1/4" plywood. I knew the 1/4" would add some rigidity, but I did not understand how drastically the thin skin would help to stop the flex.

This baby HWK is now solid and sounds very defined and nonresonant. I doubt if the 1/4" material would have the same ability with the larger cab, but you might try some 1/2" glued on well, if panel flex is a problem. It makes it look really nice, too.

Thanks Dawg for naming something after me (Assume it's me?) Did you install the mat only on the inside of the 'caps'. Not on the walls?

Thought about an exterior "dressing" (won't call it cosmetics anymore, I got flak over putting makeup on my sub) on it to increase the WAF. Was thinking it may increase the ridgidity also.

Bob

How about some tasteful exterior bracing?
Bob

[quote author=Wreckinthehouse  link=1141303128/15#23 date=1142040382]Hey Adrian D.,

  I also thought that the top panel was flexing, but upon further inspection, it was actually the whole Housewrecker bouncing around on the floor. Make sure that this is not the case before you go through a lot of trouble. I lay mine sideways when DJing and the problem is solved. [/quote]

man, my hwk 15 weighs about 150 lbs, yours bounces around dureing playback?? you mush have some SERIOUS power going to it  ;D

Close to what you do...

Bob