WO    outside  Yes
WO32 outside  No
so not having the money for the plansfor the WO32 is not a big thing.
I paid in US $ and it cost me for exchange, money order charge, and service fees. That kills.

Dirt Dawg built WO for his ( garden) and has a little knowledge of PA systems, very little. maybe a month or two anyway

He can tell you most of what you need to know about PA use and among other things.
If I was doing anything outside or anything to do with PA I would see what he knows about it first.

Gex

[quote author=gexter  link=1129899653/0#1 date=1129910481]WO    outside  Yes .............
Dirt Dawg built WO for his ( garden) and has a little knowledge of PA systems, very little. maybe a month or two anyway ...........

Gex
[/quote]

Gex,

There ya go again, gettin' it all mixed up. It was 3 months experience I got one day.

My outdoor WOs work great, especially since I got them both iso-loaded, now. (I won't be taking any guff about iso-loading anymore, either.) Only problem for me, is that the cold, wet season has started and I'm getting my stuff ready to hibernate in the garage for a few months.

They worked fine with 2 drivers per WO also, and you will be impressed if you have efficient drivers in them.

Good Luck, Adrian!  :D

Dirt have you had a chance to compare a regular WO to an iso-loaded WO.I would be interested in your observations.I've also iso-loaded a WO.I noticed immediatly how much more control it gives you at higher volumes.

so. i understand it's gonna be ok for outdoor use. i just hope it's gonna be better than ported or sealed. i'm not sure about iso, but i guess i won't use it.
thanks again

i will build it. the problem is that school's started for about 2 months and i'd like to get good results, just as i did last year. so it's very 'dangerous' to think about the build...

My only concern is about the angle cuts, because i have a jig-saw (go ahead laugh, i built a db-10 and a db-12 spot-on with it) and i'm afraid i won't be able to set the angle very precisely... measuring and finding angles isn't a concern at all, because i love geometry
what should i use to fill the gaps if i don't get my angles right ? is it that thing used at cars to fill the small dents in the bodywork (sorry, i don't know the name), but for wood use ?
i just hope i won't like it more than my dbs....  ???

[quote author=Adrian D.  link=1129899653/0#11 date=1130155746]My only concern is about the angle cuts, because i have a jig-saw (go ahead laugh, i built a db-10 and a db-12 spot-on with it) and i'm afraid i won't be able to set the angle very precisely... measuring and finding angles isn't a concern at all, because i love geometry
what should i use to fill the gaps if i don't get my angles right ? is it that thing used at cars to fill the small dents in the bodywork (sorry, i don't know the name), but for wood use ?
i just hope i won't like it more than my dbs....  ???

[/quote]

Not laughing ........ wrinkling my brow. A jigsaw will fight you when you try to cut MDF to precise angles.
  >:(     <<< That's you after a few tries.
All is not lost, because you can always cut it long and sand it perfect. That will be infuriating, too.
If you lay out the plans and consider your cuts carefully, there are only 3 precise angled boards to cut on each side if you use butt joints. In other words, where two boards meet only one must be cut perfectly to connect them and the adjoining board can be cut slightly long and later be sanded flush after the glue dries. A belt sander is a great help for that, but a hand rasp will work.
It won't be easy, but your great grandfather built his world without fancy power tools. You will need to call on your "old world" craftmanship and determination to complete the build. I'm not trying to patronize you, but rather encourage you not to give up, even considering it will take 4 times as long for you to do it right with simple tools.
I would do not depend heavily on wood fillers to correct for bad cuts ..... get the cuts as close as possible before you glue and your joints will be much stronger.
You mentioned that you aren't starting the project right away, so you have time to plan it all out. One thing you might consider is a part time job at the mill where you had work done before. You might be able to earn some table saw privelidges there. Or maybe a classmate has a father or uncle with carpentry tools and you could get him interested in the project and build one for each of you.
My point is that if you want a WO, you can build one in spite of the challenges you face.

Quote:


Sorry, that part is not negotiable. You will like the WO much more than your DBs.

The 3rd one I helped build was done mainly by a youngster, your age and he was not a "sawsman" and his worked fine with all of his mistakes filled with silicone.

Polyureathane glue is a great adhesive/joint filler.A circular saw would be a great time saver and really don't cost that much.It would allow you to cut almost all of the angles a simple jig would allow you to cut the rest.

particle board !
pretty straight cuts, you used a jigsaw? looks nice.
I think your WO is going to be just as nice as your DB. That glue/caulking would be a very idea with that material and the jigsaw cuts.
Having the sealed chamber sealed would be 1 if I was using partical board.
Over here that stuff is partical board  not MDF. It will not stand up to heavy use. But is has worked out fine for some.

thanks for the pics

gex