SUPPORT FORUMS FOR DECWARE SPEAKER PLANS >> Deathbox Support Forum >> One sub vs 2 subs, advice

Message started by JustaBowla on 10/28/16 at 14:46:50

Title: One sub vs 2 subs, advice
Post by JustaBowla on 10/28/16 at 14:46:50

This is in regards to the 12" DB2.
I currently have an amp that pushes 1000w rms, and I am stuck between using 1 or 2 subs...
Option 1: 2 subs that take 500w rms each in an isobaric config.
-- or --
Option 2: 1 sub that takes 900-1000w rms.
-- or --
Option 3: 1 sub that takes 1500w rms and getting a new amp... ;D

The big reason I am asking is after reviewing the forum posts, it seems that the larger excursion subs can produce the chuffing port noise. I want to stay away from that, seems like a counter-productive direction to go. I plan to round every sharp edge just to be safe.

The other thing is I've noticed is most people end up with the movable part that the sub mounts to being really close to the end wall. So with that being said, what is the longest depth of sub you can put in this in a single sub config?

Title: Re: One sub vs 2 subs, advice
Post by electrafide on 03/12/18 at 14:25:35

I literally couldn't be any closer/similar to wondering about the exact same things you are.  Maybe a few different twists.

I don't have the space or desire to rock my (2x) Alpine R-12s in my new leased car, and rather than get robbed by some of the offers I've been getting to sell all the gear... I figured why not convert to Home Ent.?  I have an awesomely responsive a-phile system already, but only a decently good 8" sub that slaysss 60-100Hz range.  But adding the 20-25Hz response of an R-12 with it? Christ on a bike, I might shed tears of awe listening to Bassnectar or a Pink Floyd solo.  But I can't/didn't wanna invest more money right now... So I hacked an unused 80-Gold standard Computer PSU (I'm an EE so I've got any ripple current, voltage dropouts, MASSIVE heat dissipation, and fuses pretty well set, verified by a scope) to supply my 1000Wrms D-class with 42A on the +12V rail.  And I have a 1.5F capacitor (+ some load resistors if necessary) to take even more strain off the PSU and smooth things out.  Now the smart people in the room are going to know 42A ain't enough to get 1000Wrms, but the datasheet says it should be able to power 1 of the R's to it's full potential (500rms, 1000peak... I've tested it preliminarily and I found myself grinning after, which means it'd be good enough.)  With some clever/slightly risky rewiring I could draw the PSU's full 850W potential by meticulously stepping-up/buck-boosting/whatever the lower +5V and +3.3V rails to steal their Amperage.  But full-draw is a great way to quickly kill PSU's

But like your situation... Do I still use both subs?  If I did that, I'd be dangerously close to the absolute minimum operating limits of the D-Class.  Like a lot of things, I'd assume it'd be designed to run most efficiently somewhere in the middle of max & min.  Also, at half-power, would isobaric config still have any benefits at all?  I'm planning to continue on with just the 1 sub for now.

I know my approach seems crazy to most of you.  I dunno if you old-pros who are genius with setups can already predict failure.  So if that's the case, do I take the bath on selling the system on the List of Craig and hope the ROI is enough to get a respectable 12" premade IMHO extremely ugly-colored Klipsch (which I've always, without fail, felt Home Ent. woofers just can't achieve the same gut-punch LOW bass hits like Car Audio does... regardless of enclosure, tuning, or crossover settings.)  And the R's look cooler and match the rest of my mad-scientist lair perfectly, so I was thinking of adding a Plexi window and some RGB LED strips too.

But I'm done talking your ears off. If you got to here, thanks a ton for reading and your time.


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