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SPEAKER FORUMS >> HDT >> Brad
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Message started by RobLikesTubes on 04/06/06 at 12:09:23

Title: Brad
Post by RobLikesTubes on 04/06/06 at 12:09:23

I have long been intrigued by ribbon tweeters, and the idea of adding one to my HDTs.

I took your advice in the previous thread and ordered the Aurum Cantas ribbon tweeters. I found a Canadian outfit that had them for about $10 less than anyone else, and $1 shipping !!

I few questions on your implementation...
1) What type of hook-up wire did you use ?
2) How did you mount it. (top mount) ?
3) Source/type/price of cap(s), how many per tweeter, how did you connect ?

Thanks,
Rob

Title: Re: Brad
Post by gnat leader on 04/06/06 at 18:03:51

RobLikesTubes wrote on 04/06/06 at 12:09:23:

1) Single twisted pair of Cat-5. The shortest length that would reach from tweeter to the speaker binding posts. Cat-5 is dirt cheap and sounds really good for high frequencies.

2) My mount is still temporary but works well. I used a ~1 inch ball of "blue tack" to affix the tweeter bottom (which is flat) to the top front of the cabinet - inside the semi-circle cutout of the removable plate as shown in the picture. The bottom of the tweeter's front plate hangs over the top/front endge of the HDT baffle (see pic)

3) Right now I'm using two paralleled Auricaps I had on-hand with an equivalent value of ~1uF. I'd like to try Hoveland or Mundorf caps some day, but they sound good as is. The caps are hooked to the red(+) terminal of the HDT with the Cat-5 running from the other side of the caps to th (+) of the tweeter

So basically the tweeter is in parallel with the HDT, with a cap on the (+).

Good luck. Let us know what you think. Bear in mind the tweeter and caps will need to break in.

Title: Re: Brad
Post by RobLikesTubes on 04/06/06 at 18:58:08

Thanks much. Ordered the Mundorf caps.. should have them fired-up and burning in by the middle of next week.

Title: Re: Brad
Post by gnat leader on 04/06/06 at 22:03:20

Btw, as I mentioned before. They sounded better duct-taped to the outside of the cabinet. I don't know why. Of course this looked like crap. Anyway, I was trying to get them lower to approximate where they would be if I cut a hole in the baffle and mounted them directly above the fostex driver.

One of these days I will put my jig saw into action.

If you do mount the tweeter into the baffle, I would recommend placing some felt on the baffle to the left and right of the tweeter. This will reduce baffle reflections with this tweeter which has good horizontal dispersion.

Title: Re: Brad
Post by RobLikesTubes on 04/07/06 at 12:17:28

When i previosly mentioned/asked steve about adding a ribbon tweeter to the HDTs , he stated that to do it properly, the wizzer cone of the Fostex should be removed.

I'm going to experiment with things as they are, and then perhaps go for the DFR8s, but have him alter them for maximum synergy with the ribbon... we'll see.

Title: Re: Brad
Post by gnat leader on 04/08/06 at 03:19:35

Cutting off one's wizzer? Ouch! I'm nervouse making permanent mods like that.

I have also ready where people use paper hole punches along the whizzer cone edge (and sometimes all over the whizzer). The resulting whizzer having half circles cut out of it's top/outer edge - looking something like the top of a king's crown if you can picture that. Supposedly it improves the sound somehow though I don't know if its been substantiated or just some rumor or claim of one guy. But again, I'm not so brave. Some day I'd like to try this experiment, maybe on a Radio shack or other cheap driver which has a whizzer cone - just to observe the affects.

Title: Re: Brad
Post by Corey on 04/08/06 at 05:49:33

The DFR8 high end response looks very promising, perhaps negating the need for the tweeter. I would certainly hear that driver first before hacking it up and adding a tweeter.

Corey