I’m getting close to the top of the long list for my SE84UFO25.  Can’t hardly wait after nearly six months.  And with COVID funds looking more promising, and a tax refund on the horizon, I wonder about gear upgrade priorities for the biggest bang for the buck (what else do I have to think about while I wait wait wait?).

I currently have Heresy IIIs, Morrow SP4 speaker cables, Morrow MA3 ICs, and a CXN V2.  Default power cables all around, and the 25th will replace my Monoprice Pure Tube amp.

I’ve thought about new speaker, IC, and power cables, the now famous CXN V2 Wright modification; a power conditioner, a ZBIT (how much effect would it have since half of the signal path would be still non-balanced?), a CSP325 (after a more lengthy saving routine).

Anyone care to offer opinions?

Roger, this is very encouraging, you still are so upbeat on this mod! Still better than vinyl?

Duane, the best advice would be to tuck away your cash and let the SE84UFO25 settle in than go from there. From what I see in your system, a single driver speaker would make that SE84UFO25 shine at it’s best. IMO. Anything you do will change the total sound...it takes time and careful consideration on what would be best. For you.
Enjoy the journey!
John

I second the CSP325th! I would also suggest PC and regenerator. For PC, Decware DHC-1 or BAV PC (https://iconoclastcable.com/bav/index.htm) will get you in the game,  giving you a flavor of how better PC can be. I really like the KCC Scientific regenerator Hercules 200W will power everything (will need a power strip) + a CSP325th when you get it.

HK, Andy quoted me 3 weeks before he could ship when I ordered 1 week ago.

duaneh,

Exciting about your 25th Zen amp coming! That could be a life-changer.

The things you mention looking at for upgrading all make sense to me, and everything so far posted makes sense also. But I guess I would prioritize based on foundational benefits. As an example, you could do better than your Morrow cables but they are decent cables, and likely not your weakest links. Also, the SP4s might be a little light gauge for the new amp, causing it to appear lighter in bass than its potential...or maybe OK…. but perhaps something to keep in mind as you get used to your new sound.

Power being fundamental, I agree with GroovySauce, this would be a good place to consider upgrading. The beginning of all your sound, since power quality effects everything in the system, no matter how a system develops, good power makes it all better.

Since most home power is pretty noisy and irregular unless you are a really lucky one, seems most of us benefit from power conditioners and regenerators as an important foundation. Trouble is, they all sound different, some with more coloration and slower, and some more revealing and fast, and many are very costly. If your voltage is unstable, a regenerator might be the best plan. Balanced transformers can sound good and stabilize voltage some, but for more unstable voltage a regenerator can be really good. This is why I went with a regenerator, because my voltage shifts ± 3 volts over time, effecting the sound of my Decware amps. More voltage, bigger fuller sound, and less voltage, leaner, more open. So tuning my system was a moving target. But with my PSAudio P5, I can set the voltage, phase and more where I want and it is quite stable, making hearing adjustments pretty reliable. I have not heard the regenerator Groovy has, but it sounds like a nice one by his experience, and not so brutally costly.

But if voltage is steady, and not too high or low, good conditioners or balanced transformers might be worth a look. Years ago, my first step into transparent power conditioning was a low cost Audio Brick Wall. I used it stock (except for a gold plated Furutech AC plug I added) for some years for my whole system. Though I have since modified it with better receptacles, and using a Shunyata Defender plugged into it for more complete filtering, using it now for the front end components, I have not felt much need to look further. It is more transparent than my pretty tuned up P5 regenerator. I don’t know how the Brickwalls have held up quality-wise, or what else might be better than it now, but just suggesting there are lots of ways to clean power, some transparent and fast, and some less so.

And there is no doubt, with transparent systems, power cables matter. All my power cables are really good sounding, but each has a different signature...some resolving with a bit more warmth and fullness; some more neutral and spacious; some going deeper, and some a little leaner... Since all components have different sonic tendencies as well, mixing and matching cables to best compliment each component has been a good tool for me.

Another power cable suggestion worth looking at, if you are comfortable with stripping wires and connecting ends with screw-down connectors, is a Neotech NEP-3002 MK III AC cable. I have an earlier version of it, and being made with really good metal and design, and using Neotech gold plated ends, it is transparent, neutral and complex here. To me, 11 gauge is a pretty good all-around size to start with also, this cable working well with a lot of components. The ends I got are not as solid as those you can get now but I suspect the new ones might be worth the cost, especially if you can get them on sale. They are called, Neotech NC-PC303 IEC and NC-P313 AC male. With a five foot section of this cable and ends, you could have a relatively world class cable for around 360 retail, but I just noticed Soniccraft has this cable and ends on sale now, so less. For me, testing different shielded cables, I always prefer connecting the shield to ground at the AC end, and not the IEC.

Another big time foundation, as important as power to me, is the front end. The CXN V2 is well-liked by a lot of folks, but depending on budget, nothing in your system can be at its best without the best sounding front end you can get..... And according to HK's experience, you might just end up with a fairly world class one with CXN modifications.

Then there are feet…..vibration mitigation also foundational for the most pure sound. Not sure where you are with that, but one inexpensive foot that uses good design and materials is called “4pcs 50mm Aluminium Speaker Spike Pad Steel Ceramics Ball Isolation Stand Feet” on Ebay. I got a set of the B type, with ceramic balls to check out. Finding it just OK compared to some others I have, I decided to carefully pull the rubber ring off the top (in case I wanted to put it back in), and removed the stick-on rubber on the bottoms. Using a three point arrangement under my Torii, and having taken off what was excess damping to me, the feet became pretty complete sounding, fast, and transparent. Worth trying variations, but to me, it is best “naked,” and I think it compares well with much more costly feet.

I love my heavily modified CSP3, and ZBIT. Different enough sound-wise, along with my amp gain, the three together create a really nice gain riding and tone tuning toolset for me. But there are those who prefer no preamps too.... I guess I am like JBzen on this one, I might suggest waiting to get to know the new system your 25th amp will create before going into the pre world. I have little doubt the CSP3 25th would work beautifully in your system, but it might be good to try it after you shore up your foundations and get a good feel for your new system.

My thoughts, but any way you go, no doubt you are in for some fun!

The great thing about a Decware amp, especially the Zen 25th, is you won’t ever have to worry about power being the “weak link”.

I wonder where it ends....

My guess is either bliss or insanity.

I think most or all of Steve's amps have measures to mitigate bad power but none of them really eliminate the need to clean up bad power at the wall or pre amp.

At least look into the ZLC.  It might do you a lot of good at a much lower cost than full-on conditioners.

Artman, 4krow.....I expect it can be both! But increasing the bliss certainly keeps it all going for me! Back in the day, I never dreamed home systems could get this real.

duaneh,

I feel for you, it is so tricky making these choices conceptually. Especially since you have not heard how revealing your new amp will be in your room, it's hard to gauge how much everything else that is not up to the 25th's level will be an impediment to its potential.

I guess I am a little confused since I had said design improvements from VRs and other good power supply ideas can really help. But this does not make amps immune to power issues in my experience. And any effects from even subtle noise, though not necessarily sounding like noise, it damages the signal. Also, even if this implementation were amazingly able solve most power issues...the rest of the gear is still vulnerable to sonic degeneration from rough power and lesser cables as well...all effecting the 25th sound. But maybe your power is clean...that would be nice! So I can't say what would give you the most in the short term for whatever money you have to spend, just talking about how important power can be in making resolving systems more resolving and musical in my experience.

Like you, I would be reticent about buy a 3-4K regenerator unless I really needed it and liked its feature set. And like I mentioned, the reason I got mine was to get a handle on irregular voltage and the effects of varying voltage on the sound of my Decware amps. It has been a while, but I think my P5 was ± 22 or 2300, a demo with full warranty. But I didn't think I was recommending a regenerator per se unless voltage is a notable issue, and not necessarily a costly one if needed. The Regen Groovysauce mentioned and likes is I think around 800, and though it would need a nice strip too, quite a bit less than 3-4K.

Cheaper yet, an Audio Brickwall surge suppressor, "conditioner," with 8 outlets, is under three hundred at today's prices. And if they are still good, and one wanted more refinement (similar to mine now), some work, but maybe 350 for a nicer AC plug, two higher quality receptacles, and a Shunyata Defender...so maybe 640 total at today's prices.

Also I mentioned balanced transformers, and though they can be costly, the 500 watt one I currently use before my P5 regen is nicely made, and was 240 delivered from China. Being somewhat of a downgrade before the P5 initially, I experimented and put together a nice fuse for it, while ending up with better caps on the receptacles... After that, the transformer/conditioner was a notable improvement before the P5, upgrades costing ±100, so ±340 total.

And less costly than many, Steve's, a more powerful and versatile balanced transformer/conditioner than the one I have, and with Steve's particular tuning.... is about 900 including the Decware warranty.....

Just wanting to be clearer about a few of many possibilities if power is an issue.

Thanks, Dominick, for your experience.  Power's a bit confusing and all this power talk has me thinking about tragedies and my soon to arrive $3k amp.  The Brick Wall 8 port that Will mentioned offers what appears to be secure surge protection and some sort of conditioning—for less compared to Decware’s ZLC, which likely offers more fidelity but with no surge protection.  Perhaps I’ll  lean that way to replace my current.  It seems that the ZLC would need to sit behind a surge protector anyway.  I could make a first step towards nirvana with the Brick Wall (and be under my stimulus budget).