If your system sound is complete, and revealing, fuses absolutely make a difference. It can be subtler or more notable depending on weak links that truncate some part of the spectrum, on system/room balance and transparency overall, and our perception. If you consider that all your component power goes through that little thing, it is easier to imagine how it can effect the sound.

Throughout, the power quality and flow is a determinant in how all the parts are "adjusted" by the power. If there is more or less noise, more or less clarity, more or less easy flow, each part or wire responds in kind....better power allowing all the parts that make our sound to be at their best... individually and collectively. So a fuse, in a sense, "conditions" the power based on the materials used and design qualities. Like different wires sound different, and different cables, depending on the type of metals used and the qualities of metals...purity and drawing methods, gauge, the dielectric used, damping, geometry, ends used, finally it all matters to whatever the wires are carrying.

Not sure where, but if you run some searches for audio fuses, or audiophile fuse, or the like, there have been discussions on this forum about them. Personally, I prefer the search button under the Decware banner rather than the box at the top...There is a pull down for when posts were made. I might set it for all.

Here, the fuse you linked to was one of my less favorite audio fuses. In my system it was a little veiled and dark, preferring the silver from the same company over that one. But this preference, like it all, starts with my particular system balance, the basis for how the  tonal balance of a fuse sounds to me. If my system is near the darker edges of "warmth," a fuse that is biased that way may not be as beneficial as a clearer one, or visa versa. And none I have tried are just alike.

It matters which direction you use the fuse also, in many cases, more notable than others, but especially after settling in a few days, I have heard a difference with all I have tried. Check around the forum though and see what you can find.

Will and GroovySauce

Thank you both for sharing your knowledge, and I appreciate the search tip!  
I will check out the audio magic fuses.

Looks like a nice fuse Pal. Thanks for the tip.

Craig,

Not sure what you are considering a fuse for. But in my early edition Torii IV, and CSP3 both (where there is only one fuse in the IEC inlet, and no additional fuses inside), the times I have blown fuses are when a rectifier goes bad. For me anyway, the few times it happened were when I put in a "new" NOS rectifier that failed on starting up. After losing a pretty costly Synergistic Research Red fuse to that, I usually remember to replace the fuse with stock when trying a suspect rectifier. Luckily I had gotten a lot of enjoyment from that fuse before I blew it .

I had no idea fuses were a thing (why am I so surprised given it's audio and EVERYTHING is a thing) until they came up during a conversation about interconnects.

What are some of your favorite fuses? It'd be great to get some recommendations to roll 2-3 and see if my ears can hear the difference.

Thanks,
Richard

Based on my limited research, the Audio Magic and Synergistic Research fuses seem to be the most highly regarded. I installed SR Orange (their latest & best) in my ZMA, CSP3+ and ZRock last year. A very noticable mprovement.

SR is running it's annual sale now, buy two and get a third free. Makes it a little less painful. These fuses are directional too.

Good luck.

HK

I recently installed two more Audio Magic fuses in my system, making them the predominant brand with only one Furutech remaining (in my ZBOX in the headphone system.)

The new ones are about completely broken in--one is in the PS Audio "Ultimate Outlet" I use in my main system, the other in the CSP2+ in my audio/visual system (a Super in exchange for an earlier "blackout" model). The subtle change they have made is to add a bit more depth to the sound and sound stage, and a bit more body to the imaging in a smoothening way (that is not obscuring any details).

In the audio/visual system it is a nice complimentary change to the other changes I made before that: a Wyred 4 Sound "Remedy" reclocker (used) with a new iFi power supply. Wow, did that help my DVR sound! I'd recommend that to anyone who is using a DVR into a DAC in their main system (in my case I run the DVR into my Oppo UDP-205 via Toslink, the only digital output on the DVR).

I can understand that. Ceramic fuses are an improvement, I've tried them.. . a good start . . .

Which component Master? I would myself not go up to the 8 amp and think that the lower one might well be safe in the component, but Steve would have the best answer (but I don't think he reads about replacement fuses on the forum).

Thanks. You know it's possible that 6.8 is a typo for 6.3. The 6.3 value seems to be a common one, 6.8 not so much.

Thanks!

I don't think so. Steve would have the best answer but I think you'll be fine.

Exactly right. No risk to your gear, just your wallet.

Paul from PS Audio does a nice job explaining the "why" behind fast v slow fuses.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFlnQ1chBno

Does anyone else recall, somewhere and sometime, Steve saying that slow-blow and fast blow are both fine for his amps? I think I do, but can't imagine where to look to verify, or if I happen to be remembering this correctly, if things have changed since.... @#$%^&

I always chose slow blow for new fuses, especially audiophile ones, thinking they might be a little less vulnerable to blowing while being safe for the amp, but the fuses I have gotten with decware components in the past have all been fast blow glass.

That said, I use all slow blow.

I personally can't confirm this, as my amps were made before Steve started using those rectifier setups with fuses. In the amps I have, there is one fuse in the IEC inlet only.

I hope others with these fuses will comment, but if not, and if it is glass, I think you can usually tell fast or slow by looking at the fuse element. If it is a really thin/smooth wire throughout, it is probably fast blow. And if coiled, thickish, segmented thick and thinner, or has one or more little wide metal "bumps" on thinner wire, then I think it is likely slow.

I don't think your new fuse will blow...I would think about it as being like the one you have been using, the same amperage and voltage ratings, and both fast blow. But the new one, made for better sound, it is very likely more stable in support of vibration mitigation, and made with better materials and design, so made better! Also the power inrush people talk about at startup with big solid state amps is different than your Taboo I think!



If your amp is newer, and has the internal fuses, might be in some thread somewhere, but on the fuse threads I have seen, I am not aware of them having been experimented with and talked about yet.

But as my amps are, with no internal fuses, the IEC fuse makes a notable difference....effecting the power to everything in the amp, and therefore the sound coming out. Conceptually, the beginning of your power, seems to me it should help all the power, including that feeding internal fuses if they are part of the amp circuit.

That's all you need to do. After a while try the fuse in the other direction. Odds are one way will sound better.

Thanks Lon! Even I can't screw that up.. much

Very thorough as always, thanks will.

In my case, I havent installed mine yet in my Taboo MK 4. Im still waiting on Steve to tell me more about the 3 fuses underneath that protect the amp in the event a rectifier fails.

That said, I'm not into the idea of populating thosr 3 with more Telos quantum x2 fuses at $80 a pop.....then another for the ZRock2.

Thanks Lon, that is interesting. Maybe Ill install that Telos, but I want to wait another several hundred hours or so.

Hopefull at some point Steve will make good on your request.

Richard,

Thanks for the update on your tube use and preferences, and I too find fuses I like quite helpful.

But I am afraid I am behind, having become pretty satisfied with a Synergistic Research SR20 Quantum fuse in the CSP3, many generations old at this point, and Synergistic Reds for the PS Audio P5 and Torii, also a quite old model. In the CSP3 I like the pretty clear but somewhat richer tone of the SE20, and in the Torii and P5, both tending to warm, I like the cleaner, more "not there," Reds. I can't recall what I have in the Syngxer, but possibly a HiFi tuning silver, also pretty clean....I have WE fuse stickers taped on most of these to a nice effect, bringing out subtler micro detail and space in a fairly neutral way, and easily changed if a fuse fails.

Less concerned, not having rectifiers that could blow out the fuse if they go, I use a copper ground wire the diameter of a fuse, smoothed up and cut to fit the fuse holder for my DAC, big and complete sounding.

I almost always remember to change nicer fuses back to simple glass ones before trying questionable rectifiers. But I lost a costly SR Red one time, so came up with a good alternative I use in the Torii now. I found a slow blow glass fuse, one with a heavier, wider, smooth element, figuring it might be less prone to vibration than thin wire. Experimenting, I ended up with a 1/2+ WA fuse sticker (clean and nuanced) and 1/2 of a small Telos sticker (denser, less extended, darker and smoother than the WA) taped on. I figured the tape around the glass damped it a little too. This combination, both smoothed and clarified the sound from the fuse. It sounds clean like glass fuses, but without edginess, pleasantly a bit fuller, and subtly smooth with good fine detail. I quite like it in the Torii, and I just have to move the stickers if I blow one, something that has not happened since I found this solution due to a faulty pair of Telefunken GZ32s some years ago.

... and I just found a SR Black for $45 so that may actually be the first fuse tested. Made sure I didn't screw up and got the right Slow Blow this time

That's right Richard. The square holder is for a spare fuse if you want. When the fuse is mounted in the "hook" thing, when you press the fuse holder into place, it locks the fuse into the electrical contacts at the bottom of the of the IEC inlet.

I am glad you were able to get the SR Black at such a good price, as it uses the newer UEF technology where I don't think the Red does, the UEF being something that can be pretty impressive for bringing out nuances, space and finer resolution in general.

I suspect the fuse will smooth out some with more play. And don't forget to trade directions to see which you like best. In your setup, now would probably show enough to prefer it one way or the other, but especially once you are used to the sound and the fuse is settled in, I find it is worth checking again.

Glad it turned out to make a significant difference for you! These components are so revealing that it seems we hear every little change.

Amen. A permanent convert here! I am Enlightened  :)

Glad to hear ArtMan. I really like the SR Orange fuses. Combined with my PI Audio UberBUSS power conditioner everything just locked into place with my system. I heard the same changes you described, they were transformative. Enjoy.

HK

HockessinKid,

I never considered the word transformative for the fuse but if a system has no weak links, it is a valid description of it's impact.

Morph,

I also use a laptop as a music server and run a Curious USB cable to my Denafrips Pontus. The Pontus puts the data stream into memory and then re-clocks it. Between the Curious USB cable and the Pontus, it is probably equivalent to your USB signal regenerator in terms of noise and dynamics.

Listening to music is now such a joy. Again, everything sounds new and fresh.

I'm a big fan of Audio Magic fuses as well.

Fuses can get really pricy, really quickly.

I still stand by the Audio Magic fuses and they are my #1 recommendation.

My brother found Create Audio fuses. They are $10 each shipped. If you goto ebay and type in:

create audio fuse

a bunch will come up, they ship out of Hong Kong / China / Taiwan.

HockessinKid,

Again curiosity got the best of me and I ordered a Synergistic Research Orange fuse. The word transformative is the right adjective for this fuse. As good as the Blue fuse is, the Orange is that much better. I never imagined a fuse would have such a significant difference in my system.

Resistance is futile Geno. Against my better judgement I bought some Synergistic Research Orange fuses when they were on sale a few months ago and now I'm a believer too. I seriously can't believe how big a difference a fuse can make.

Right now I'm using one in my Woo Audio pre/headphone amp. But I have two more for when my UFOs arrive in a couple weeks.

I am also using the SR orange fuses in my ZMA, CSP3+, and ZROCK. Bought them last year during the buy 2 get one free sale. They made a noticable difference in my system as well.

HK

I have to chime in also.  This thread pushed me to finally experiment with fuses.  I purchased a SR Orange for my Zen 25th.  As others have stated it does make an impact and is well worth the price.  

In addition to better detail, the music seems to have more density and body with a blacker background.  I really did not expect to notice much but this was like upgrading a power cord or interconnect.

That should be in the manual.  You can also look at the existing fuse, assuming it's correct.

Hey Jess,

I looked at the Torii Jr manual also, and the photo/diagram page does say it uses a 3 amp fuse in the IEC power inlet. However, later the manual describes the fuse: "The 120V TORII JR uses a 6.3 AMP 20mm fast blow fuse. (220/230/240 volt customers use a 4 AMP 20mm fast blow fuse.)"

So, I don't know, but am guessing the 3 amp on the diagram page may be a typo. But you can check it out by pulling the power cord, and then gently prying out the fuse holder part of the IEC power inlet, and look at the spare and/or main fuse.

Typically stamped numbers in the metal of the fuse ends tell the voltage and amperage ratings. If it is 3 amp, there will likely be a 3A mark on it. Or if 6.3 amp, 6.3A.

Thanks Will and Lon, will select 6.3A then

Hey Jess,

Good news! Since the Jr manual said 4 amp for 220-240 volt service, makes me wonder, do you have high voltage service? Or did Steve say 4 amp for 110-120?

Anyway, glad you got some good benefits from fairly low cost fuse changes. I have used both AMR and Schurter, but preferred others.

Having used and liked the effects of WA chips in DAC modifications, I have some left over pieces said to be designed for caps, DAC/semiconductor chips, and for fuses. I don't know if they are just different sizes or different formulations. But having been impressed in the past by taping a WA fuse sticker on various fuses, and since cutting up bigger stickers gives fine tuning potential (sizing it to tastes) while pieces of a bigger sticker would be less cost per fuse for similar treatment, I had been meaning to try it. As an example, a WA semi-conductor chip is about 12.50, and a fuse chip, about 9. I am guessing the DAC chip has about 3 times as much material. And taping them on the fuse rather than using the sticker as intended makes them easy to move to another fuse.

So I am now experimenting with a piece of a WA DAC sticker on a generic, but pretty nicely made slow blow ceramic fuse in my balanced power supply. I had been using a HiFi Tuning Supreme there, and initial impressions of the sticker/ceramic fuse were good. I had run the fuse on my Frybaby2 burnin rig, so it was pretty good right off, but as I recall, I found the stickered fuse more neutral, transparent and faster than the HiFi Tuning fuse... pretty impressive since the HiFi fuse uses better materials and is designed specifically for audio.

I need to play more and do some ABs in order to give any real analysis, but I am pretty impressed so far what these stickers can do, and at a fairly low cost per fuse.

Ohh.. forgot to mention Will that my JR is 230V and using here in Singapore.  The stock fuse is rated 5A i think but Steve has advice to get 4A.  The fuse I tried is inexpensive just to find out myself if there is really an effect to the SQ these fuse.  

Glad we had the same result or observation about higher ratings fuse which gives bigger sounds which is nice on strings and vocals but for bass notes somehow becomes bloated that makes the system looses its speed.

I would like to try HiFi tuning supreme now after you mention it but now not sure if 4A or 5A should I get.  BTW, what is WA sticker?

In case anyone tried 4A and 5A to save me some
$ on the experiment 😁 and provide the outcome.

Guys, I’m wanting to try one of these audiophile fuses. I’m wanting to try one in my Zen and CSP3. The manual for the Zen states a 3 amp fuse. I don’t see a type specified for the CSP3.

On the Parts Connexion site, a 3 amp is not a listed option. 3.15 amp is the closest one. Is it ok? Also, would this be the same one for the CSP3?

Thanks in advance,

Geno

GroovySauce said
Fuses can get really pricy, really quickly.

I still stand by the Audio Magic fuses and they are my #1 recommendation.

My brother found Create Audio fuses. They are $10 each shipped. If you goto ebay and type in:

create audio fuse

a bunch will come up, they ship out of Hong Kong / China / Taiwan.

Just received two fuses from them yesterday, one for the UFO and one for the ZP3. I was curious about fuses, but not multi hundred dollar curious. At $10 each it’s not much of a gamble. I've only had one listening session since installing them so It’s still early. I heard some improvement with depth and smoothness. I don’t have anything to compare them to other than the stock fuses. Perhaps someday I’ll be able to compare them to an orange or purple or similar.

I'm a big fan of SR Orange fuses, FWIW. I never thought I'd buy into the "hundred buck fuse" thing but against my better judgement I bought some a few years ago and they made a nice improvement to both my UFOs and my (non-Decware) preamp.

Anyone try the Acme Silver Cryo CFC fuses? They have a few good reviews, including this one (after weeding through some hyperbole).
https://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1021/Acme_Audio_Labs_Silver_Cry...
I figured for about $20 a pop it's worth giving a try and have a few on order.  

I did the same thing with some extra heavy gage silver wire that I got from Tempo Electric that I was using for jumpers back when I had Magnepans.

Can't say that I ever A/B'd copper vs. silver but the solid wire is a huge improvement over glass or ceramic fuses.  I never have tried the more expensive fuses though.  Since I built my amp I guess I'm prepared for the consequences should a melt-down occur...  I'll build another.  Keeping a fire extinguisher happy and never leaving the amp unattended.  Don't do this at home.  ;)

Will brings up a good point. If a fuse is eliminated and a meltdown does occur this may likely void any lifetime warranty  offered by Decware.

I don't think any rectifier tube would stand long with a short inside to cause any fire damage but could be long enough to heat and melt connections in other components in the circuit which would leave the amp dead after replacing the tube.

If a fire started blooming to the extent of loss of real estate property, an investigation would be in order. Let's assume it was started by carelessly placing a cleaning rag with an accelerated on top a hot tube amp that was not properly fused. The investigator will find this and report the findings. Insurance companies would love to send this finding to the law department of their business.

If Decware did not place a protection fuse in their equipment, those lawyers could cause Steve a real headache. By bypassing that Decware installed fuse the homeowner of the real-estate may be in for a fight with those same lawyers.

If you live, life might become miserable fooling with zen.

John

I also am using Purple fuses and an M-1 in my regenerator, the heart of the system. A great mix. I have a few Orange in use in my other systems. . . I much prefer the Purple.

I too am too cautious and love my equipment too much to bypass the fuses. And when these fuses sound so good I see no need.

Hi Paul,

I had that thought initially, and sometimes Steve logs on and adds something clarifying.  Over time, however, I have found that the experience level of the group as a whole is most helpful regularly.  Steve's contributions to the discussions regarding product development, like Sarah, have been extensive.

Tony

Yes, I remember very well.

I trust the designers opinion.

Have known Mr. Deckert for over twenty years.  I knew within twenty minuets of meeting him that he was the real deal.

Will, I agree with your thoughts on Deoxit and other contact cleaning materials.  Proper use and cleaning are very important.

We have seen the ongoing development of the Sahara 300B amplifier.  The amount of attention put into the product is evidence to the expertise of the designer.  I'm sure that somewhere down the line someone will come up with a modification that they feel will make it infinitely better.

We once had a very nice member who was competent enough to build his own design SET amp.  He sold some of them.  A friend bought one but eventually sold it and regrets it!

I accept that if someone purchases a Decware amp, it is his property to do with as they please.

I feel that with your level of competence, you should design and build your own.

All said with the utmost respect.

Liquid Blue - Glad the Acmes are doing well for you. I found the fuse holders too tight for them too, and meant to mention that, but sounds like you worked it out.

Hey Paul - I agree with you. Steve’s amp explorations in development are inventive, informative, and exciting for me.... also indicating expertise and advanced creativity. Thinking that through though, how could they continue to be so innovative and expansive, year after year after year, if he already knew all there was to know? Always learning in the quest for beauty.

Also, if we assume it is the case that many of his most practiced customers, with great systems and great listening skills, “find” something they like that Steve may not have investigated as thoroughly as them, does that make their discoveries wrong? I mean to me, in my system, a decent fuse for 20-40 dollars is a good value, and a great fuse, a notable system improvement… but this depends on how responsive the system is to improvements, and what we consider a notable system improvement, so also relative.

Perhaps complicating this, Steve has naturally become an Icon of excellent perception and discernment leading to musical design that enhances the musical experience for many of us over years… and lately lots of new folks since reviewers are fanning the fires we have been keeping. And something about how we are culturally conditioned, it is easy to make Icon’s knowledge somewhat of an end of the story, perhaps (or perhaps not) inhibiting our development for personal learning and needs.

To me, what makes Steve such a great designer is that he is seeking a realistic and life-enhancing musical experience, the tech, a part of it, but not the primary emphasis. And he has an unquenchable thirst for this, for himself as well as all of us, always seeking and finding new ways to give deeper potential for immersion with the beauty of music at home. And this experience, once refined, is well beyond "good sound,” and really complex if viewed from a linear view. Being based on complex body/mind experiences, there is just too much to measure, which points to insight as a guide. And for insights to happen relatively easily, our body/mind perception and discernment needs to be free to discover new things… not based on static assumptions that may have been pretty true at one time, but may not have not have been fully reevaluated as technology and perception/discernment evolve.

My take is that creative process can free up the mind to deeper discovery. The sense that something can be improved in some way(s) seems to be the beginning. And that leads to exploration, trying to find "it." Then explorations lead to discoveries, and the discoveries that work (or not), often come with sideline “gift” discoveries, not anticipated, but welcome… And if we are on a pretty clear and balanced track, however they come, improvements take it all beyond what we started with, ending up with “creations,” something new. Then, real baseline improvements in audio allow hearing more into the music, which can lead to insights for seeking more improvements that might further enhance the musical experience.

I figure this then extends to us to various degrees. Steve and other’s creativity help set a stage for us, and we carry Steve’s art forward in our spaces. Then, depending on how far we want to go personally, often it works pretty nicely just with a simple setup and complimentary gear. But Steve’s work is also so good, it can catalyze a need to follow a progressive path similar to what he is doing in design, pulling the best we can from his work. And Steve's designs leave room for our own creativity to build on the shoulders of his own creativity.... Clearly for many of us, room treatment, cables, vibration mitigation, tubes, fuses, etc become part of an ongoing creative project for many years on end. And ultimately, with super care to quality and compatibility throughout, this led me into modifications, my system finally coming to a place of not very notable weak links. For me, having made things my whole life, where else to go without spending a whole lot on unknowns while chasing the beauty and a more complete musical immersion. So I just fell into it... and though at least a little scared every time, I went inside.

Starting with a few signal path part upgrades, and bypassing the power supplies, once tuned pretty well, these were really exciting (this was before the A-mods)... what Steve had already set up became faster, more complex and complete... I got the bug. And that bug set up a long progression of exploration and discovery, mainly from adjusting with experiments with parts, wires and various bypassing. And nothing stayed that did not make what was there better at what it did… So I have thought about making an amp, and probably could now, but I am not an electronic designer, more an explorer of modification. And I have loved having Steve’s designs as a solid and expandable baseline to learn with and from. Also, at this point, I feel like my stuff has gotten so good it would be hard to beat (within reason), a lot of the electronics based on Steve’s excellent designs. That said, whenever it gets to where it seems it may be about finished, it lets me hear something new to try to refine, and the refinements always happen so far.

Anyway, my comments about "real deal" people, in this case Steve, I agree with you, I think he fits the description. And my interpretation of the possibility of our past views potentially coloring our more recent ones were not meant in disrespect. They were just to point to our potential for fallibility as humans. And if something feels a little off, taking respected authorities opinions as the end truth without further investigation can be self-limiting… Or not. And who knows, we all have our own priorities and pursuits, and may be listening for different things. But finally, in the context of our own creative study and experience, I figure our own exploration is the only way to really find out for ourselves…

My take on it anyway.

Hey Sean. I had some Creates and one other that I found was probably the same fuse with another name, and they never ended up getting it for me either. Glad you feel like the Orange is going to pan out. I find the SR Oranges continue to improve here for a lot of hours, and finally are giving me a nice rich completeness harmonically and spectrally... in this setting anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EX1AtrYXra0

Interesting groovysauce.

I know people who bypass their fuses and swear by the improvement.  I have not done this mod.

They also swear by not using big heavy copper binding posts, or worse yet different metal tabs between your speaker wire and the speaker coil wire ends, often wiring their speaker wire from amp directly to voice coil wires.

Of course this voids any warranties, but they claim bigger improvements in dynamics and transparency with these two mods than most anything else you can do.

Everytime I look at the big copper posts on my Lii audio references, I think about that tweak, but I have them and my overall system singing best I have heard anything in my 40 year audio journey right now so no need to bother.

Thanks for the heads up and let us know what you hear.  

Buy the new master fuse and compare it. It has a sixty day return policy!

I find it to be getting a little confusing since "magic sauces" with fuse makers are getting more and more sophisticated and great sounding. Also, some fuses can take a really long time to burn in fully so evaluating them before then may not tell the whole story. Seems SR was one of the early innovators and amazingly they keep getting quite a bit better over time, yet the thin wire fuses blow at the same basic levels. So at this point of development, compared to basic thick copper, I wonder also how concept might meet with results of sound tests.

I have never had the nerve to use a heavy piece of copper ground wire in the fuse position in my tube gear. I have blown rectifiers enough times that this would worry me. But as far as I can recall, I have never blown a DAC fuse, or CD player, or anything else solid state that I can recall. So with my Gustard DAC, I used a copper plug cut and polished from a ground wire, and it was more sonically complete in all ways as I recall than the stock Gustard fuse, or another Chinese audiophile fuse... can't recall which one, but one with a pretty good sound. Long time ago though, so can't be more clear just how much better it was.

How it would compare to a more recent SR fuse... can't say, but I was surprised how my newer Orange fuses were quite smoothly resolving, while seeming bigger sounding with more density and body than my old Reds a few generations earlier. And folks say the ones past orange are better... I guess I have just been too cheap to go for current ones, waiting for sale models to come along.

All in all though, especially if the relay opening and resetting (compared to blowing a fuse) does no damage, it would seem the Swiss Digital Switch, if silent, could be good, especially if they used really good copper.

@groovysauce

I realized the magnetic unit programming can’t be done by the end user which makes sense for safety reason but makes it a less dynamic product to try across multiple components.

Where are you specifically targeting yours?

One thing this fuse has in sufficient quantity is buzzwords.  The marketing team put more hours into this one than the engineers.  So much BS in the writeup that I can't tell if there is a good product behind it or not.

But I do doubt it.  I don't see any value in the "imported" quartz or the "nano" copper.  bottom line is, a wire becomes a resistor, heats up, limits current, and eventually fails.  Not a good thing to have in your power circuit if you can avoid it.

Jerry

The links Will referenced confirmed my deductive reasoning. Although there is a bit of salesmanship there, the pictures speak to actually addressing issues that must help through inductive reasoning.

I don't think any manufacturer is going to change the inner workings of a tube fuse to the point that it will not do its job. The tube fuse has to break at it's rated capacity. The thin wire will vibrate and heat to destruction...can't change that in a tube fuse without compromising its purpose.

Electricity is mysterious or is it? Most people are fearful of things that can not be seen but can hurt them. They don't understand things that are not in plain sight such as electron flow. However it is in sight but not seen unless a desire to understand is present. What can be seen you might wonder.

Watching a thunder storm(s) on a clear night over the open plains will provide basic insight on the working of AC current stability. The storm creates different negative electron potential in the clouds and on the ground to the point there is enough difference that a discharge bolt is created as lightening. The bolt does not form a straight line but rater spreads out in a wild fashion toward the ground or up to the clouds. Back and fourth just like AC current but in the wild.

Hypothetically in the 22nd century scientists create a way to harvest this flow of electricity between the clouds and earth with a beam harboring nano copper powering our devices. By physics there would need to be a return flow to balance and control the flow...if not the beam would just burn a hole in the earth until a balance of protrons/neutrons between the ground and atmosphere is created.

Scientist have already found that running AC conductors in a parallel fashion stabilizes AC flow. This is a basic lesson in electricity as refereed to in the other thread Will has linked and can be seen here:

Two video talking about how energy flows through wire is a facinating-interesting watch. They don’t discuss audio implications. It does shine light on why power cables and other power related items can have such a powerful impact on the music in the room.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHIhgxav9LY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oI_X2cMHNe0&t=561s

Watch those two links above. It will enlighten the mechanics of AC delivered today and the backlash from ill informed.

Exotic tube fuses with absorbent prices and not so can and do make a difference in the sound. Decware(Steve) has made a product that is so transparent that inserting a exotic fuse can be heard easily. Be warned though it is the whole system not just one amp that will make it easier to detect the differences that so many on the these two threads hear.

John

We live in a caustic environment. Everything we make including ourselves are vulnerable to this corrosion. By adding another cable along with another device inline with AC feed to the component(s) can only be adding corrosion surfaces. This with addition wiring lenght complete an unbalanced tradeoff IMO. Remember we are replacing a fuse with a "sluggo" in the same fuse holder and adding a power cord and Swiss Fuse Box to the AC feed of the component.

This adapter might lessen the wire lenght:

https://voodoocable.net/product/in-line-iec-adapter/

All this stuff is added to replace a 3/4" inline fuse?

No doubt it is going to change the sound. For the better?

Not knocking the SFB device but seems a bit unbalanced to me and may improve/mask certain characteristics in individual systems.

I think the 4AWG slugs will work fine until the various "cheap" alternatives can be rooted thru.

Good to hear you have ordered some Will. Looking for your impressions. What ones did you order? Maybe we can collaborate. Due to commitments my ordering will be delayed a bit.

John

I have seen no reason in my environment to be in such fear of corrosion, and I've found that extra cabling and even components contribute to better sound more often than lesser sound. I remain interested in this method of fuse relief. There are positive reports of its use.

It's not an overwhelming issue in my systems that would exclude me from making any additions. Maintaining connections is not a big deal. Your post made it seem as if fear of corrosion holds you back from adding connections.

Cool Will! Looking forward to it.

I see, Lon. From my point of view it is worry of wasting resources on unneeded things when there is something within reach that can do just as good.

Best

John

For contact enhancement, though I have used Deoxit Gold, and like it, I find it hard to use just so. A little thick, it starts to sound thick. For whatever reasons, Cardas contact cleaner/enhancer was easier for me for quality and ease of use. Mostly in recent years I have used Mad Scientist Graphene contact enhancer, also important to apply as directed (and not to get too thick), but I found it quite clarifying in early tests. I do try to remember to every so often use the graphene very carefully on fuse ends and IEC connections also.

Been a while, so not clear in details, but I got onto polishing connections from some folks I respect who said you can compare polished versus not, with some sort of viewing devise that can show the effects of more complete connections in comparison less-than complete ones, less complete ones sparking variations of "little lightning storms" in the connection.

As I think of it, the theory of the better contact enhancers (when properly applied) is usually cleaning the connection surfaces, but also filling the tiny gaps in the surface of the contact with "nano" particles of gold, or silver, or graphene or some blend presumably... trying to even the surface of the connections and hoping to do a similar thing connection wise as polishing.

A few years back, I actually picked up some very pure "nano" copper, silver and graphene, and a few variations of plant derived Squalane oil, alternatives to shark squalene. I guess I should have some of the original to try in comparison but thought I would start with plant derived. Just have not gotten around to experiments with a lot else happening in my life. One day.

The Audio Magic M-1 that I put into my PS Audio DSD Mk2 DAC has seasoned in and. . .man the DAC sounds great. I think the M-1 is my favorite of the fuses. I may add a few more in time. . . . Probably will put two in the SEWE300B when it arrives months from now.