Since you’re already having electrical work done, go for the dedicated line. That’s the way to go!

I agree with Arch, do both.
Best,
Scott

I know there are a lot of high priced options but I remember Steve extolling the virtues of heavy gauge copper Romex.  I'm not sure what options you'll have if you follow the Electrical Code which will require Arc Fault breakers.

Donnie at that length...your extension cord would be like what...4 gauge wire to not get any voltage drop.

I'm the nutter that actually ran Z-Styx type 8AWG wire from the circuit breaker to a dedicated PS Audio outlet. I was surprised to find it actually made a difference!

IMHO - A great, low resistance ground and dedicated (home run) line were the key points. They did far more than the fancy outlet did. Do whatever you can to lower electrical resistance and add the power filter and you'll be golden.

Also, since you're having the electrical work done, see if they can inspect the grounding rod, and measure the resistance to ground. Tell them that you need better than NEC (National Electric Code) because you have "sensitive equipment that needs a very low resistance ground".

At my old house I had two different electricians balk at this, and I had to point out to them that NEC is about safety, not quality. I wound up adding an extra grounding rod myself to further lower resistance because these guys just didn't get it.

Did you use conduit for the Z-styx?  I'd be surprised if it's rated for in-wall use without.

Yes you would need heavier wire to use a 20 amp breaker to its fullest potential. Unless you are thinking of some sort of insurance job to get rid of some of those pesky bills.
Now you have to ask yourself if you need 2400 watts of power to run your equipment. (120 volts X 20 amps = 2400 watts).

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Z-Styx wire is a Milspec (aerospace) silver plated copper wire with Teflon insulation.

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I did use conduit, and the Teflon insulation made it super easy to pull thee 8AWG wires through 45' of conduit. This wire is literally used in satellites and jets; I'm sure it far surpasses NEC code, but I'm also sure isn't recognized by NEC code either. So conduit was the obvious choice, and maybe shielded the wires as well (shrug).

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Yes, there is a specific gauge required for 20 amp circuit and outlet. The 8AWG I used far surpasses that - but again, my goal was lower resistance. And Hospital grade outlets are usually just fine if you're on a budget - they hold the wires well on the back side, and have strong springs to grip the plug on the front side, and typically have a more robust ground.

If you're having an electrician run the circuit, make sure it's a home run back to the panel. Pick a quality 20 amp outlet (hospital, or audiophile or whatever) and just use the thickest gauge wire the outlet can safely handle. If the electrician balks and says you don't need anything more than 12 gauge for a 20 amp circuit, but the outlet can take 10 gauge...tell him to just use the damn 10 gauge and get back to work! LOL

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A standard 20 amp outlet can take your typical 15 amp plug, or the 20 amp plugs that has one of the blades perpendicular.

My setup was Home Run 20amp circuit to PS Audio filtered outlet, to my PS Audio P10 which could easily handle all my Decware gear, and my home theater gear at the same time...with the exception of the sub-woofer amps. The P10 doesn't like the 2400 watt sub woofer amps, and I've actually tripped the 20 amp circuit with just one of the big amps. So for home theater action I ran a second run of conduit with two 20 amp circuits, 10 gauge off the shelf wire, and two Hospital grade outlets; One circuit for each 2400 watt amp. So ultimately I had three home run 20 amp circuits - the original "audiophile" one for my Decware gear and home theater receiver/blue ray, then two more common ones each dedicated to a subwoofer amp.  I'm pretty sure the new owners of the house are baffled by all the outlets along that one wall; but the house sold within 48 hours of me posting it and had three buyers putting in offers...so I must have done something right.  

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I believe 16 amps *constant* current is the recommendation for safety when calculating devices and lights on a circuit. This gives you a little bit of a buffer for peaks - such as when you turn on a space heater might draw 10 amps during startup but idles at 4 amps. There are commercial/industrial breakers that are rated at 100% Amperage, but I'm not even sure they would fit into our typical home circuit panels.

The breakers are like slow blow fuses, they won't pop if you peak 20 amps, but they will if you're running constant current near 20 amps. Hence me popping 20 amp circuits during bass heavy movies; the explosions were fine, but long low rumbling sounds would pop the breakers.

The Electrical Code is like a factor of safety.  But I've seen old Cutler Hammer breakers not trip even with a dead short!