cmdc
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I have four Thorens tables, including a 150 and the closely related TD160. All are capable of really exceptional performance. The 160 was my first Thorens and my first serious record player. I got it off Craigslist for $400, and when I first tried to replace it with a newer table, I struggled to find anything that would match it (to my ears) for less than $1400. So, you've definitely got alot of room to grow with it. From my experience with both, the thoughts below would apply as readily to the 150 as the 160.
I agree with others that replacing the springs is easy, cheap and very worthwhile. In addition to springs and feet, Dave at Vinyl Nirvana also sells Thorens belts, and it's worth spending ~$35 for a new one.
To improve isolation, particularly if you have hardwood floors, here are several things that have worked for me:
* You can add a simple butcher block isolation platform pretty inexpensively, and they make a huge difference. If you want still more isolation, the GoldenSound DH cones work extremely well, and aren't prohibitively expensive.
* For a faster and cheaper option, setting 2x2 lego blocks under the existing Thorens feet makes an immediate and very noticeable improvement for pennies. I won't speculate here about why this works, but it's worked without fail for me under a wide range of equipment.
I would try these simple tweaks first before taking a dive into something new.
All this said, if you have $1400-$1500 and want to invest in something with maybe a longer upgrade path, you have alot of options. I eventually displaced my TD160 with a ClearAudio Champion, which you can find used for a bit less than that. Or, if you're willing to consider a vintage table, you can get a nicely restored Thorens TD 125 or SOTA Sapphire for that amount and have a really outstanding front end. (The TD125 outperforms the ClearAudio Champion at my house, and the SOTA at least matches it.)
I've run both the ClearAudio and the TD125 with the ZP3 and they're an excellent match. (And if you add in Randy's Lii F15 OBs, it gets even better).
If your budget is higher, as the other tables you mention suggests, you should seriously consider a TD 124. The difference between it and every other table I've owned or heard is profound.
Finally, on the question of moving from MM to MC: I spent years committed to MM and MI, (and a piezoelectric on the 160) because they were simpler and less hassle than MCs. I tried a couple of inexpensive but well-regarded MCs on the 160 early on, but quickly went back to piezoelectric and MM carts, because they sounded better with my other equipment.
In the ensuing years, I've owned and loved several top tier Clearaudio and SoundSmith carts, up to the Charisma V2 and Voice, respectively.
I got my first MC early this year to go with a TD124. Having finally made the switch to MCs, I have to grudgingly admit that, at the mid-high end at least, the ones I have are better than comparably priced MMs. However, this comes with the huge caveat that, once you add an MC, you will likely also need a Step Up Transformer, and an additional set of interconnects. All of which adds cost and complexity.
For example, I'm currently running my ZP3 with MMs, because I couldn't get the right match with my SUT for the MC cartridges I tried with it. This is not a weakness of the ZP3, just a mismatch between the SUT I have, and the one I would need to make the ZP3 sing with an MC.
I hope this helps. In any event, hold onto that Thorens whatever you decide. Audio forums are filled with folks who let one go, then regretted it after.
Happy Listening.
Carroll
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