The original SE34I and later SE34I.2 are well loved amplifiers, but our line has improved both sonically and visually in recent years... and with the bottom of the pile of those kinda cool copper vein textured steel chassis now in sight it was time to bring this wonderful amp up to speed with everything else.

So we've been secretly working on the new SE34I.3 that I am listening to as I write this!  That means it's coming soon.  I'll probably be able to start taking orders for very soon.  Just keep an eye on the SE34I.2 page... when you see the SE34I.3 on there, you'll be able to order it.

It looks amazingly good.  It's physically larger in size.  Still uses EL34's, Still an SET amplifier of course and the same power as before.

Sonically it clearly out paces it's predecessors because this one is "lucid"!  Yes, I stole lucid mode from the Taboo and made numerous other small improvements.  The end result is a new benchmark for the imaging capability of SET amplifiers.  Could be the best sounding EL34 SET amp ever built.

The price will not be increasing.

Steve Deckert

Since I was on the verge of ordering the previous model just about the time it was discontinued, it only makes sense to put in my request for the first order of the newly revised model. Sounds like great timing since there is an improved version for the same price!

On the rebound now, as the dust has settled, and life goes on in a new phase for me. I am starting fresh from scratch, for which analog purity through simplicity, and careful design, will be the focus within my new system approach.

Ultimately, I would prefer to have the tori zen for its well controlled behaviour and absolute strengths, however, I believe this new amplifier just may be the ticket for my exact needs with a sane price tag attached....only time will tell.

Get the new amp into my possession Steve, then perhaps I can see just how "exact" the satisfaction factor really is in what this amp design can do for me.  I hope that it doesn't lead me into regret for not choosing the tori zen in the first place (such a difficult decision).  When examined from a pure state of value based on the purchase price, this new SE34I.3 seems too hard to ignore for what it promises to deliver.

Of course this is your preliminary "teaser" phase for simply making the product introduction become a reality.  As a seasoned veteran in audio, and a long time experienced user of decware products, I have already surmised that this amp design will be all that one could expect from its given parameters, in a very positive manner...one which is in direct consideration for the designer's track record for which there is no question.  I for one have no need to question what has been proven over and over again.  I see this as the best (performance-versus-price) target, for which seems to me as the best buy in your amplifier line-up.

The bottom line is this....once the exact details are released on the revised design, I for one will know exactly what to expect once it comes time to place that order.  I hope that this information is posted soon as I am curious.  In the meantime...I shall take my place in line to acquire the new SE34I.3 when available.

Thanks for all your creative contributions leading to a refined audio experience. Once again, you have proven zero bounderies for that which is possible "outside of the box".  It is very much appreciated.

Looking forward to having this amp powering my new system.

Paul.

Gee Mr. Deckert, you told me it would be ready sometime in spring?  I guess it may come up earlier than you thought at the time?  

If it incorporates power regulation for both input and output stages, like the Mini Torii, and being sonically superior to it's predecessor, and a SET (with two more Watts/c), should I go back to my original choice and change my pending order on the Mini?

How do you compare these two niches in your product line?  I guess the Mini has more slam and bass control, whereas the integrated will display more midrange transparency and detail? (triode vs pentode).  If this is true, jazz and classical orchestral music (as opposed to acoustical and classical chamber music) would benefit more from the Mini?

Anyway, congrats on the new design! ... I guess my purchase timing was just not the best.  Being so far away from Peoria makes swapping/2nd market alternatives very difficult, that's why I'm asking.  I need to have a keeper.  Take care ...

Blurb is there now. Not unprecedented in Decware-land to have discounts on a new product, this has happened more than once, doubt it is a hacker!

Heck, I own two now. At 1295? I am bringing this one into the stable too-riding her hard and putin' her away wet.  LUCID mode on a EL34 and probably some tube regulation..... . I think I will like it too.  -Stone

I'm also one of those looking forward to the new amp!



I have plenty of preamp tubes from the ECC88/6DJ8 family to play with and am looking to a new SET amp which uses those tubes.

Lord Soth, If you get one of the Integrateds, be sure to try the 6N2P in that input position. Reallly interesting tube for this amp, I loved the combination. You lose some headroom though, so if you need all the power, not the best choice.

Steve himself was the one who got me to try them. The one caveat is that these can be prone to hum or because of their lower output can pass on hum. If you can talk your supplier into sending the quietest ones it might help.

So, have you talked or corresponded with Steve about it, or are you just guessing from what Steve has posted so far, as I am?

Thanks for the info Steve. I'm sure it's going to be a great amplifier!

Well, best of luck and enjoy the wait as much as possible!

Even if it's faster than it's ever been, it will seem way too long. Just sit tight and be as patient as you can!

Good question markv on a headphone option. I am interested.

Anyway, I am glad for tube rectification. I know Steve is not a fan of solid state rectifier diodes. I auditioned the now discontinued EL34 mono blocks and did not like solid state recti'. The aggregate sound of the Amp(s) IMHO is greatly affected to the negative with SS rectification and is cheap to do and sounds cheap (hard). Tube designs with it, sound like solid state to me.

I am excited about the Lucid mode for this design. I use a very adequate Adcom AC Line Enhancer (ACE-515) with my SE84CS....with very noticable improvement....deep black low noise background for the  Selects detail and can't be beat (so far) Transparency.

I mean, the ideal setting should be: Wall mains > Isolation T > Line enhancer/P. cond. > Audio gear.

The isolation T. should give you plenty of surge protection and de-couple your setup from the mains raw AC.  The conditioner/enhancer should fine-tune voltage (120) and frequency (60 cycles), and hopefully both units will work together in shielding RFI (the isolation T. filtering the source AC RFI and the Enhancer/Cond. the local RFI.)

A good isolation T. is easy to build, and should work fine.  I have doubts about the conditioner/enhancer, though.  Unless a similar concept as the one applied by PS Audio, for example, is in place, I'm not sure how the filtering would be effective at actual time of event correction, without allowing transient effects getting through your system, and without interrupting the full power flow profile demanded by your gear at the event's exact time.

PS Audio Plant's design is essentially having a first class, controlled power plant of your own (that's why it works and that's why it is so expensive!)

This means either I evidently don't know enough on the subject, or the enhancers/conditioners only do a partial job, and in many deviation events they probably fail.

Now, I'm not saying this is the way it is, but I need arguments to support picking up a presumably good line enhancing device (there are so many out there ...), that is also affordable (by affordable I mean is a fraction of the cost of what your are trying to protect).

In any event, I welcome your's and anybody else's comments and experiences.  Thanks, stone ...

Geez, this complicates by the minute, LOL.  

That's why I was saying using a conditioner to filter local RFI.  This local RFI may also come from the transformer itself (it was not designed with high-end audio in mind, so it may definitely release some operating buzz.)

In any event, I know the system will sound good plugged to the wall, but then you know it can improve.  Steve underlines the 2:00 a.m. relatively cleaner AC for out of body listening experiences ... Simply put, end sound quality also depends on AC quality.

I just hope I can find a line enhancer that may do the trick ... As for the power cords, these may impart character or signature, but if they are well built, that's tantamount to room reflections or other sound affecting variables we'll never control totally.

I think mains' AC specs inconsistencies (voltage and cycles) and RFI are really sound damaging ... not signatures.  Now I'm afraid I may need shielded power cords to shield the isolation T's own RFI emissions.    Have a nice listening session, Lon

What change in sound or performance do you anticipate with the change in design to use the 12AU7 instead of the 6922/6N1P for the input?

Thank you, stone.  I read there's the Adcom series 615 on the market replacing your model.  Is good to see that Adcom held on to this design on the market for so many years, which I interpret as it being a good design.

Yes, I've been listening to Lon since I started this Decware quest, and hopefully I'll learn too.  I just want to avoid some of the trial-and-error process, if I can.

Regarding the power cord, are you using your stock Select's cord or something from the aftermarket?  I ask because this is another variable, as Lon has pointed out, and you seem to imply you don't need an improvement on the power cord for the Select.  Is that right?

Thanks for your assistance.  Happy listening ...

It IS the very same transformer.

As for power cord, I'd suggest getting a MAC cord from the auction site will mentioned, www.proaux.com or if/when you can afford it, the Decware cord. Will last you lifetimes and provide great sound.

Furthermore, without making this a separate thread..... . Get the best front end you can afford. In my SE84CS based system I put my well burned in DacMagic in place of my Audio Alchemy pieces for comparison. The AA gear also uitlizes the i2S function with a Audio Revelations Prophecy Cyro'd Silver i2S interconnect in conjunction with my Kimber Select. The DacMagic has NO BUSINESS BEING IN THIS SYSTEM. It is flat and 2 demensional compared to my AA digital. When/if my AA gear goes down (it will/it is 17 years old and I purchased new in April 1995).......a Wyred for Sound Dac 2 will be the minimum starting point. I might have to go up to PS Audio Perfect Wave. A testament to how good the AA gear was then and still is for the Redbook CD standard. Also, a testament to the SE84CS (now ZS) Transparency and music making abilites.   Cheers, Stone of Tone

I just read shielded power cords are actually detriment to sound (limits soundstage dimesionality) ... go figure!

Thanks, stone, for the answer and the thorough description, quite impressive.  I have experience with audio alchemy myself, since 1993 I believe (the first ones coming out).  Good stuff, and a bargain at the time.  It was plugged to my Enlightened Audio Designs Transport and beat the Theta processor I had previously.

In my case, I get stuck with the stuff I don't like, as I cannot ship this back to the seller or anyone interested in buying them (too far away), and locally these things are not appreciated.  So, I need to be really careful in choosing my components, as you can tell.

I think one of my weak links is the USB DAC (I'm using laptop music streaming, exclusively), but will need to check it out with the Decware gear in place.  My HRT Music Streamer II beats the Dac Magic also.  It improved my current SS system by much (beating a Hi-Fi DVD/CD player with Toslink optical outputs and such.)  Not sure if it will be up to par with the new gear.  So, yes, I'm aware of the importance of source components.  

I already ordered a popular, inexpensive but well reviewed power cord, the Iron Lung Jellyfish 14 AWG hospital grade.  Just one step above the stock power cord, mind you.  Little risk to start with, looking for reliability.  Long-term will have to be replaced by Decware's, probably (quality of materials and know-how should make a difference).

IC's I have 2 pairs of Vampire ZTC 75005 (great copper) from my earlier setup.  Eventually will have to be upgraded too.  I'll stick to the Tripp Lite 500 Isolator plus Jellyfish for the time being until everything breaks in.  Then we'll see.

Lon, I wish I could do that, but I have to go through my importer, so it's not feasible, unless he would auction himself and I'm sure he won't.  My loss.

I'm taking notes, guys.  Thanks so much for the support.

Thanks, Lon.  Yeah, it's really crazy!  I know from what I've read that shielded IC's are a no-no, and also they have to be as short as feasible (due to capacitance).

But, like you said, nothing is written in stone in audio tweaking ... It's part of the fun, I guess, especially when you kind of nail it and can really taste the new, improved sound!

Ride safe!

I agree on all the BS around.  But the more one reads, the better informed one is to make a decision.  I guess it's a matter of using common sense and keep basic concepts on check to decide whether a proposal is worth trying.

The best approach, nevertheless, is to ask people you trust, as you mentioned earlier.  Problem is, you have to have those contacts, which are scarce.

BTW, there's a reason for longer shielded power cords to work better, according to proponents of shielded cables, as it provides more opportunity to extend the magnetic shielding field surrounding the cable as current passes through (the right-hand rule, as is known in electrical engineering).  But this is, of course, their interpretation.

Indeed. If I've learned one thing about audio it's that there are very few absolutes.

Correction: Just added a Foobar2000 plug-in to enable Ape files also.  It's working!

Me too on trying to imagine it?

I am so digging my Torii 3 now and I have loved the SE84CS coming up on 11 years now.... .  I am just going to order it when Steve posts it. Rotate the Amps as I see fit. I am glad I'm going to drive my paid for vehicle for two more years so I can top out my Audio needs........ .

There's some information here in the designer's notes to the Torii Mk II:

https://www.decware.com/paper68.htm#TUBE%20RECTIFICATION

May not answer all your questions, but it might help.

I've been thinking of upgrading my current system, Adcom GFA-555 amp, Adcom GFP-555 pre-amp and KEF Model 103/3 (4ohm) speakers with KEF Cube, for a few years.  I have the matching Adcom CD player and Tuner.  Anyways, I really like the system (had it for 25 years), but have the upgrade bug!  I have been looking at the SE34I.2 and waiting for details on the SE34i.3.

My question is - I like my KEF speakers (92db sensitivity) and would like to keep them for now - but the KEF cube plugs into signal processor inputs on the Adcom pre-amp, using 2 rights & 2 lefts.  If I were to purchase the SE34I.x would it still be possible to use the KEF cube with the KEF speakers?

Per a Audio Ideas review from back in 1987:

"The KEF 103/3 speakers are a 3 way system with  a dome tweeter and 6" midrange on the front and a 8" woofer facing down - all on a dedicated stand.  The KEF cube eliminates crossover inefficiency losses allowing for extended bass response.  The normal speaker measurements are 50hz - 20kHz.  The KEF cube allows you to vary the frequency range below 160Hz by about 3 DB." (though their tests showed a closer to 6 DB with the cube extented button activated).

Anyone on the forum have experience with these KEF speakers and KEF cube using Decware amps?

Thanks        

The crossovers in the KEF might rob the amp of a lot of power. The 92 decibel rating might not mean that much after the crossovers take their toll.

Is there any possibility that you would ever consider trying something with higher efficiency?

I can endorse the MG944's wholeheartedly.  That Integrated would drive them to insane levels of volume, and lead to a completely life-like musical reproduction.

Stone -

I agree with you.  I keep checking the "New" link on the main menu and the "Hi-Res" link on the SE34i.2 product page thinking Steve has placed a picture of the SE34i.3 there.

markv wrote on 02/06/12 at 02:21:28:


Either one would be a solid choice!

Lin
H-B Type 1 owner

Interesting! Not what I was expecting. Looks beautiful. Thanks!

The Two power supplies in the SE34I.2 were heavy overkill.  Remember those were designed for the original SE34I that had four output tubes rather than two.

Right now, we're still at the same 40 mills per tube as before, so both channels draw 80 mills.  The current power supply is 150 mills.

So to answer your question, no, it is no longer dual mono.  

I'm in the final chapter of the voicing on it, and comparing lucid mode with one built as a classic SET just like our Zen Amp (SE84C+).  It's looking like getting lucid mode as good as it was on the Taboo may take another year or even two (like it did for the Taboo).  Triode vs. Pentode is just too much change to have the same results.  Don't get me wrong, it's impressive in it's current state, but in a serious shoot out between the two designs,  The classic Decware SET may actually have the edge in the imaging department since it's more accurately rendering the intent of the recordings.  Given that and the fact that the amp could now be bridged mono I'm likely going to abandon the unbridgeable lucid mode on this design.  After all, we still make the Taboo.

The meters are to show the bias of each output tube.  This lets you know a few things:

1) When the amp is ready to play music after powering on.
2) What the bias is for each tube
3) If the tubes match and if not, and how far off are they
4) Visual clipping indicator to make it easy to determine max power levels
5) Ongoing tube wear indicators
6) Tube failure (shorted) indicator

But mainly to let you see at a glance how close your tubes are matching and how close your amp is to max power.

...no the tubes do not have to match, especially if you have the amp configured with dual volume controls... but matched tubes mean that each channel will clip at the same point - not one side sooner than the other... and closely matched tubes preserve pristine imaging.


Steve

Yes, but so far just one rectifier sighted.

Beautiful design, indeed.  Ok, it's not going to be a Lucid Mode-capable design, but I wonder how does it compare to the SE34i.2+ it's replacing in overall performance?  Any comparisons made already?  

If they sound better than the SE34i.2+, these are going to make killer triode monoblocks!

Steve -

What are the other configurations you are planning for this amp and for how much?  Also, will you offer a stock set of tubes as an option?  Finally, what does this amp look like with the contemporary walnut wood base - pics

Well, while they may dry up for me by becoming unavailable in quantity but I can't image that they would ever become unavailable in singles from places like ebay.  That said, in a worse case scenario I would likely replace the VR tube with a neon lamp.

I suppose you're correct Steve.....we should be able to find them on ebay etc.... (voltage regulation tubes/down the road purchase). They last forever too. It should not be much of an issue.  NO neon! Go with a black light and lets bring back the Posters too!  ;D

The release is here!  Sweet!  She is a beauty (that Rachael)!

Rachael!  I like it!  This could be love! .....Those sexy meter's.....what a vixen....hubba hubba........

Ms. Rachael?  I do believe you're trying to seduce me?!

Steve -

Add to Cart is not working for this amp - can't order.

Add to Cart may have been repaired. At least it's working for me now, I played around with it and it functioned as expected (unfortunately I'm not buying an amp, but tested the buttons).

Before this thing was introduced I was leaning towards a set of SE84ZSM monoblocks but now I am not so sure.

I would not be comfortable with using this "Rachel" as a power amp wide open with no volume control. Right now my Mini Torii connected to the CSP2+. When the volume on the MINI is wide open I hear some noise that is not audible when the volume controls are lower; thus the ability to ride the gain between preamp and amp is necessary not only for greater versatility but to avoid any noise.

Other than 6 watts what are the differences in sound/performance between the Rachel and the Zen monoblocks?

I'm a little disappointed with no 12au7 as I have a bunch of nice E80CC here that made my mini-Torii shine. Oh well.

I might consider using amp version with zodiac gold still.

You can't lose really. If it were me, I'd go with the Integrated, simply because I think the "noise" thing is a non-issue and I know how great this machine can sound. 6 watts triode? Wow.

But the Mini may serve your purposes as well, and your order is already in the pipeline. The wait is going to be agonizing. Best of luck, and I know you'll keep us posted of how it sounds when your system starts to come together.

The color rendition on your monitor might differ from mine. I see them as gold.

Quote:


Well done, Lon... you're basically correct.  The simple answer to this no doubt popular question is going to be that Rachael is slightly warmer with a boat load more power.

Yes, Lon, I sure will be counting on you guys to assist me further  through the fine-tunning/break-in phase, thanks.

Regarding the Mini's voltage regulation feature, I want to go along with Steve on that one.  He was pretty emphatic about it, for some reason.  I also don't enjoy good/stable power supply through the mains, locally.

My only personal reference in tube amplification has been my ex VTL 225 Deluxe monoblocks (typical push-pull), using EL34 tubes.  Mid and highs were gorgeous.  Bass, although strong, was not tight enough, to my taste.

I don't have references for a SET nor a SEP, other than what's in the literature, and that's why I was originally inclined for the integrated.  So eventually I chose the Mini based on specs and user's descriptions, but most of all by Steve's suggestion.  Iwonder if his advice would have been the same today?

In any event, as you say, I can't go wrong with either, and the Mini's features and specs are very complete.

According to my calculations, my Mini Torii order's lead time is exactly 8 weeks today, out of the original 12!











 

Hi Steve!  Is this Mini Torii's hyper-gain characteristic, which is aimed at assisting weak signal sources, like ipods, a drawback for someone normally using 2 to 2.25 Vs ouput sources?  I mean, having only half of the volume dial to adjust may become too sensitive maybe?

Can we assume the same amp silence on 94 dBs speakers with a CD player on a Mini Torii if volume is set within the first dial half (i.e., before clipping)?  Thanks!

Hi Steve,

I am truly glad that you have decided to use the ECC88 family of tubes for the new amp. I play with them alot and part of the fun of owning a tube amp is the tube rolling.

That PLUS the Hazen Grid mod for EL34s makes this a killer amp in the sonics department for the mid-range.

HINT HINT : I now know many months in advance what my 2012 year-end bonus will be used for!  ;)

BTW, I noticed that you have offered the Shuguang Treasures as an upgrade option. I am sure that you would have experimented with various types of EL34s during the design phase.

I hope that you can share your tube-rolling experience on the various EL34s which you have tried whilst designing this new amp.

Cheers!

Soth

The switch behind the volume control is probably a bias switch.

I just realized my earlier question is almost impossible to answer, I apologize.  

First of all, pentodes (beam) and triode tubes can sound different by their own nature/design.  I understand there's no 'better than' here, as it depends on circuit and transformer design.  Also, how they sound is a very subjective preference.

Purists would hold that a DH-SET with a (directly heated) natural Triode tube and absolutely no feedback (pure class A), with the simplest circuit possible and huge transformers, are the ultimate in sound.   These are also very expensive, if done right!

On the other hand, there are many fans of PP topologies using Triode output tubes like the EL34.  There are also the 300b, 2A3, 800 tube SET proponents, etc.  It goes to show the essentially subjective nature of the beast.

I guess the only ones able to actually answer my original question is Steve and Co., right now.  I'm really sold on the Mini Torii, is just that every now and then I get these doubts.  I guess I'll have to try them both  ::)

In any event, anybody with actual owning experience with Decware's SE34i and SE84 amps may have a better clue and may want to share their opinions.  Thanks!

FB, I'm not even sure which is your earlier question as you have so many!

Audiophile opinion is so all over the map it's really hard to make any generalizations. After all, there are many out there who think we're touched by the moon to even listen to vacuum tube technology when over five decades of transistor technology have superceded it, let alone digital switching amps, etc. And there are profound differences in the way that SET and PP amps are set up by designers, and profound similarities as well.

The advantage here is that we have Steve and his ears and insights and experienced application, and we have a set of amps that offer different power and price points and different circuit designs and layouts but all share his conception of power delivery and fidelity. I've had six of his amps, still have three, and they include small and larger SET and two PP amps, and I got amazing fidelity out of all of them when paired with the right source and speaker. The right source and speaker may even be viewed as more important than the topology and nature of the Decware amp to be honest.

That said, long time users of tube amps can develop certain tropes or fetishes. For example, some become dedicated to various tube types or sonic signatures, and passionate about them to the exclusion of objectivity to other tube types or amplifier designs etc. You can research one week with dozens of opinions, walk away for a week, and repeat the research. . . and draw two separate final conclusions if you base the conclusion on different "experts."

Maddening at times. . . I went through what you are going through for some time and have gone through various phases of understanding and applied various methodologies to get the type of sound I want. Ultimately in my case at least it boiled down to a love for a speaker (or speaker design) and then outfitting that with the best appropriate amplification and the very best source I could muster, and fine-tuning around that. Over the years I've seen the "amp-speaker" match as of paramount importance. The lynch-pin as it were. Get that right, and then you build upon it with your source and cabling, power. . . etc.

My biggest piece of advice would be not to get hung up on the opinions of others and to look at that link, the heartbeat of amp and speakers, as the most important decision to make. And you alone, in your listening space with your speakers know that really well, and the most informed opinion other than yours is Steve's. Seems to me that if I've absorbed all your thinking and decision-making correctly, you're four weeks into the waiting list on what you feel will work best.

I certainly wish the SE34I.3 would take 12AU7 as I have many of them and prices on NOS 12AU7 are much easier to live with.

Steve, I note the the new amp does take 6N2P as input tubes.  Does it mean the new amp may able to use 12AX7 for the input tubes as well?  If so, how about 12AU7 and 12AT7?

While I am not the designer; I suspect that settling on the 6N1P was to achieve the warmer voicing for the amp. A 12AU7 is a low transconductance tube with a tame gain. Even if electrically compatible in the circuit it might not allow you to achieve the sound the designer sought.

The Rachel product page offers the 6N2P as an option. Thus, it is possible to slip a higher gain tube into the input.

Hi stone, thanks for sharing your experiences.  I get it that among LE84 pentodes, there are competing sound differences between SEP and PP configurations, in class A, and that your true fidelity reference setup is a beam tube SEP wired as a triode (i.e., SE84C+).

This has made you consider the .3 as an interesting alternative, due to its natural Triode tube (EL34) and the SET configuration, class A, assuming of course all the other elements in the chain are up to the task.

If I understood you correctly, this confirms my initial hesitation.  I would like to have the fidelity (transparency, liquidity, air, soundstage, etc.) of a Triode SET, without the possible weaknesses involved, if any.  Nevertheless, I know the Mini is a pentode (6V6) tube SEP wired up as a Triode and a class A (almost no feedback) amp, sharing much of those characteristics, with some tradeoffs already discussed earlier.

It would be interesting to hear your evaluation of the new integrated, compared with your current SE84C+ reference setup.  I suspect the Hazen Mod plus the more linear behavior of the natural Triode would bring up some sound differences.  Specifically, I would assume differences in the frequency extremes relative to the midrange and some pleasant harmonics being added.

In the end, I think having the weakest link of the total setup up to par is far more important than slight differences in these design choices, assuming they have been correctly designed and built.

Please correct me if I've come to the wrong conclusions.  Thanks again ...

It's not that I missed that, but it is just a generalization.  What I mean is, I'm sure you would agree then, that Steve should also be making solid-state amplifiers, or less sensitive (more crossovers) speakers.  Since it also depends on all the other variables anyway, according to this generalization, it could well be that a certain SS gear has the best sounding possibilities.

The point is, assuming you start with what people consider the best amp configuration for your particular objectives, means you're one step closer to get there.  Whereas, you could change all the other variables in the setup and still miss the best sound because you started with a less than optimal amp for those specific goals.

IMHO, under the same conditions, an amp configuration will take you to your objectives easier than another.  You'll still have to get everything else up to par with it.   Just thinking ...

Fireblade -

When you ordered your Mini Torii did you upgrade to VCAPs?  The reason I'm asking is I thought I saw the VCAP option listed for the MT awhile back, but now it does not appear on the "Add to Cart" page.   I've reviewed the MT forums and there is no talk of VCAPs with the MT - maybe it is not recommended?  Just curious.

I think it would be interesting to look at this possibility (the CuTf VCap), as after some research, I found out many positive opinions with the replacement of the coupling caps with this particular brand and foil material.

I assume you have one (1) of those per channel (for the output tubes?), and the cost may be around $250.00/pair of CuTf VCaps, plus replacement labor.  Not that expensive if it's true it will improve that much the original sound.

I'm not even sure if this is applicable to a Mini Torii (as originally brought up by markv).  Only Steve may know, but I sure hope someone in this forum, other than Steve (the Man is real busy), may participate with some leads into this promising topic.  

Here's a link to the designer of the CuTf VCaps:

http://www.v-cap.com/audiotechnique-v-cap-review.php

Later ...

Thanks for the input, Mr. Deckert.  It would be definitely expensive having to replace 4 of them, even if these would fit!

I stand a hair's breath away from ordering one of these babies. I understand there will still be a significant wait. I am trying to decide whether to get one with a single volume or a dual volume control.

Who else is in my same position?

I had an SE34.2 model with dual volume controls. It was very useful to me as I could compensate for an asymmetrical speaker placement with the separate volume controls. It was very easy to match the channels when in a symmetrical positioning as well. I enjoyed the flexibility.

It is charged when shipped.

I ordered mine and found a discount code still valid.

No, it will grace the top in rotation with the TABOO and MINI TORII.

Looking forward to your impressions Jim!

Congrats, Rivieraranch!  I wonder why you have not considered a Torii MKIII?  After all, you already have more than one SEP or SET in your arsenal.  Any particular reason?  I don't blame you, though, this new Triode design is very tempting!

Thought so.  Besides, I'm sure you won't be willing to part with any of those jewels anyway.  Good for you, enjoy them!  I'm looking forward to your comparison verdicts on all of them, relative (of course) to the Mini Torii  ;).

I too look forward to RR's impressions.

If work permits and I plan a little ahead.....? I hope to go to Decfest, hear the new .3 with the ERR's and Steve's new Horn. Steve D's Pentodes in Triode are my thing for sure.   Cheers......

Steve:

Will a headphone out be offered on this amp?  If so, what heaphones would best pair with it--orthos or dynamic?

Thanks,
Todd

I am wondering what rectifier tubes may be used in the SE34I.3.  I am a little cautious as to the types of rectifier being used in the amp as I once put a 5AR4 in my SE84 and it degraded the sound of my SE84 heavily.  Do you think 5Y3GT is good for this application?  Thanks.

Thank you Lon!  

Here is another question.  I brought a pair of Philips 7DJ8 the other day for my upcoming SE34I.3.  I put the 7DJ8 in my SE84C and tested it out and the 7DJ8 did not sound bad at all.  Does anyone have experience with 7DJ8s with any of the Decware amps?  People mostly said that 7DJ8s are drop in replacement for 6DJ8 only with higher filament voltage.  However, I also noticed that someones are saying about cathode poisoning on the 7DJ8s if they are being operated below spec filament voltage (7V).  Does anyone have long term experience with 7DJ8s being operated as 6DJ8s?  Do 7DJ8s end up with shorter life or they are about the same as 6DJ8s?  Thanks.

Lon,

Thank you again for your invaluable information!