I just received my new Mini Torii this afternoon.

In February, on a whim, I sold the prototype Mini Torii I bought and enjoyed so much last year. Then I decided to order a regular production model.

It arrived perfectly packaged and in good order. I set it up, and unwittingly inserted the OA3 tubes where the power tubes should go, and vice versa. I switched it on. The OA3 tubes did not light and I heard a loud hum. A moment later one of the rectifiers got real hot. I quickly turned the unit off and then realized what I did wrong.  I placed the tubes in their proper positions and switched the unit on. The OA3's came to life along with the OC2's with their orange glow.  I waited some moments and then spun a CD. Everything is fine.

I took this picture just now and the unit looks stunning.  

Another vantage point. Tubes are 1958 Sylvania for Bendix 12AU7/6189; 1982 Raytheon JAN OC2; 1969 JAN Sylvania 6X4WA rectifiers; 1971 JAN Sylvania 6V6GTY brown base; 1950's CBS INDUSTRIAL OA3.

Five hours on last night and five hours this morning, so far so good.

I will say that you have to keep the speakers connected to the MINI TORII when using the output for headphone use through the CSP2. However, you can set the MINI at low volume and use the volume on the CSP2 to vary the headphone volume. Therefore, you would not hear the little sound coming from the speakers.

I was told that if you wanted to disconnect the speakers and run the outputs to a CSP2 you would be advised to use an 8 ohm, 5 volt resistor on the speaker terminals.

You should have no issues driving most subs via the high level inputs from the Mini Torii's speaker jacks...  alternately you can use the preamp output from the Mini Torii and use that to drive the sub line level.

Give Sarah a call re: the knobs, we'll send you a set.

Steve

Several hundred dollars!

I understand that the prototype was the first one made using the EX transformers, was hand made and run and tested extensively.  Sound wise there is no difference between the prototype and the production model.

Hifitubes

I use this sub amp and have never had any problems with it.  This sub amp has common black terminals (they are connected together inside the sub amp) and this may be the difference between this amp and your other amp.   Are you connecting to the sub amp with 4 wires, one each to the 4 left most banana plugs and not using the 4 right most banana plugs?  If so, and if you get a sub output only when you disconnected either one of the positive connections I'd guess that somehow you have the + and - connections reversed somewhere (maybe inside the amp) so the positives are getting shorted together because they are connected to the common black terminals of the sub amp.  I'd turn off power, get an ohm meter, disconnect the sub amp and see if any of the wires are shorted (the 2 - connections might suppose to be connected or might not, it depends on the mini-torri design, which I am not familiar with).

If they are in fact turned around, you might try connecting the common connections to the black terminals and the others to the red terminals.  Good Luck.

Dan

The polarity switch on the sub amp will have nothing to do with this problem.  

Dan

I think I mis-read your post about the sub's polarity switch.  It will have nothing to do with a common ground at the input shorting out a signal, but if you do have to reverse the inputs because of the common ground then - yes- you might have to flip the polarity switch to make up for switching the polarity of the input.  But in either case, the sub's polarity switch should be set to where it sounds the best.

Dan

Not sure my cables are long enough by I could try that. Thanks for the ideas.