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Building the ZOB (Read 12315 times)
proud_indian
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Building the ZOB
01/23/10 at 04:27:54
 
Simon ( young sc) and myself have been in touch and have exchanged notes on the build. Some clarification is needed....
1) The front baffle is screwed on to the side panel with a felt gasket. This would mean that with the gasket in place, one would not need to glue it?
2) Regd the stuffing. Is it needed?
3) Does it need to be felted on the inside of the horn cabinet.

I plan to start early next week , so I think Steve or Bob should be in a position to help.

shreekant Smiley
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Doorman
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #1 - 01/23/10 at 04:43:38
 
Shree: Be sure and post pics!
Good Luck with your project!
Don
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Young_SC
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #2 - 01/23/10 at 08:53:30
 
Shreekant the daring pioneer!!

One of the main things holding me back at the moment is setting up a kids 2000 L plastic pool around the side of the house so I can't get my trailer out to pick up wood.

I am curious how to screw on the front baffle whilst maintaining the attractive veneer or paint job.

I'm probably going to round off the edges of the front panel to limit diffusion.
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Steve Deckert
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FRONT BAFFLE
Reply #3 - 01/23/10 at 12:36:59
 
The front baffle can be screwed and glued to the cabinet.  That is how the prototype was made and what the listening evaluations were based on.  

However, I believe if you pinned the front baffle to the cabinet with 4 screws over a layer of 1/8 inch felt, the speaker could sound even better.  With the compression of the felt this would stand the baffle approx. 1/16 inch off the cabinet.  This would in turn ad 1/16 inch to the thickness of the slot behind the baffle.  I do not think the increased area of that slot will cause any issues.  Of course it wouldn't be hard to reduce the area of that slot back to it's original size by adding some 1/16 inch material to the back of the baffle in that location.

Steve

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proud_indian
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #4 - 01/23/10 at 13:19:08
 
Thanks Steve. The second option seems better, cause, if I were to use different drivers, then I would only need to change the baffle.

shreekant Smiley
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Young_SC
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #5 - 01/28/10 at 12:49:10
 
To reiterate Shreekant's question.....

Is there a set amount of stuffing in the cabinet, or does it need to be tuned to fit the room and equipment?

Steve/Bob, if you can elaborate on what you did, it will give budding builders a starting point.

Thanks

Simon
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dabbler
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #6 - 02/07/10 at 12:51:39
 
For a support forum this place doesnt seem to get much support  ;)

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Nelson Bass
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Errors in the cabinet plan
Reply #7 - 02/18/10 at 09:32:32
 
Hi Steve,

As I'm living in Europe I've to convert your drawing to our standards over here.

First I draw all the parts and connected them using pro SolidWorks 3D software.

I found some minor errors and therefor the placement of the internal panel is not very clear to me. Will you give the distance from the bottom of the internal panel to the bottom of the cabinet and to the rear panel?

Page 6: the gap between the internal panel and panel 7 is different from the distance mentioned on the next page. Which one is correct?

Given the data from my SolidWorks drawings I read out 14.2 degrees instead of 15.6 for panel 6. We can't make it that accurate anyway. Wink

Thanks for sharing this great design with the crowd. Smiley
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Nelson Bass
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #8 - 03/12/10 at 11:56:51
 
Steve,

I got the DFR8s yesterday and only need you to clarify the placement of the internal panel.
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Steve Deckert
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #9 - 03/13/10 at 02:00:53
 
Sorry for dropping the ball on this thread..


Page 6 is a missprint.  Page 7 is correct.
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Mikkel
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #10 - 07/28/15 at 22:09:12
 
Hi. I've started to build a pair of ZOBs and I have the exact same questions as the ones in the 1st post.
1. How to mount the front baffle
2. How to do the stuffing the right way.

The 1st question is answered by Steve and I have decided to screw on the front baffle. But where to put the screws? I can put 2 at the bottom (panel 1), but where can I put another 2 screws. I'm thinking of making a small piece of MDF to put between the sidepanels and at the very top of the sidepanels. If I glue it to the sidepanels I can then mount the front baffle to it. Any better ideas or thoughts on this approach?

The 2nd question. I wish someone would post a picture, of how it is done Smiley

I'm very anxious to hear the final result of the speakers. I'm going to use a Cube F180 speaker. Hopefully it will do ok. I'm also going to implement a pair of microphones in the speakers, accessible via a XLR socket next to the speaker terminals at the rear of the speaker.

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4krow
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #11 - 07/31/15 at 22:16:03
 
To answer your question:

1) As to the placement of the screws, I used a pocket hole jig to drill two holes at the top of the 'wings' that support the baffle. For the bottom, it was originally suggested to use a cleat in order to hold the baffle in place. Instead, I used two LONG deck screws with hex heads and drilled at an angle starting from the bottom of the cabinet and then continuing to the back of the baffle. Tighter grip, that's for sure. Otherwise, I do not have another idea
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Kimppe
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Re: Building the ZOB
Reply #12 - 08/11/15 at 09:15:25
 
Mikkel

Did you look at the pictures in : https://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb22/YaBB.pl?num=1386589985/all

especially Reply # 18 and # 31
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