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EQUIPMENT FORUMS >> MINI TORII >> 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
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Message started by P K on 05/26/14 at 17:51:38

Title: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by P K on 05/26/14 at 17:51:38

It's very similar to 12au7, but is 1/2 taller and required more heater current, so please make sure that you check with you manufacturer before using the tubes.

Will this tube work in a Mini Torii

Thanks,

Peter

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by P K on 05/28/14 at 01:34:56

Steve D. gives a thumb up!!!!

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by hifitubes on 05/28/14 at 11:43:23

e80cc-BW by JonCatuccio, on Flickr

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 01/24/15 at 07:23:18

Hifitubes and PK,

I'm currently considering a pair of Tungsram E80CC's for my Mini Torii's driver position, based on other people's reviews. Could you guys forward your final impression on these? Thanks!

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by P K on 01/24/15 at 21:33:01

I went to a NOS Amperex 7316 (a 12au7 equivalent) and I am very happy.

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 01/27/15 at 12:05:49

Yes, thank you. I thought you had said 12Ax7 earlier ... I guess you rectified that?

In any case, this fits exactly with my expected comfort zone for the driver specs in the Mini, right inside that squared area between the 12Au7 and the 6414 and others ...

My best experience with the SQ 7062 really nails it for me. Unfortunately, I lost one of mine and Jessee did not have another but a regular 7062, which is not the same, so I have been back to my RCA black plate 12Au7's.

I can get Tungsram E80CC's and there are good reviews around, but I wanted to check base with Decware users before committing.

What could you say about them in your system? Differences with the 7316? Thanks!

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by P K on 01/28/15 at 03:54:52

I tried a lot of tubes before I settled on the 7316.

Brent Jessee agreed with my selection and thought the NOS Amperex stood out from other 12au7,s or equivalents.

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 01/28/15 at 12:32:09

I see. Well, a little on the expensive side for a driver tube, but if the performance is that good, it may be worth it.

Are you using it with your preferred Mazda 6V6 GT? Would it be a matter of synergies you think? In which case the replacement should include the Mazdas also.

Thanks for the feedback!

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by seikosha on 01/28/15 at 16:57:08

Fireblade,

Something you should consider is that PK only runs his Mini Torii from 1k up in a biamped system (uses a Sunfire below that) so anything he says about tubes doesn't take into account what they sound like below 1k. A tube with great upper midrange and treble but bad bass and lower midrange could sound fantastic in his system, but not very good in others.

PK, please correct me if I'm wrong andyou are now running your MT full range.

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by P K on 01/29/15 at 01:43:03

You are correct about my bi-amp system.

By the way, I have replaced the Sunfire amp in my system.

Peter

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by P K on 01/29/15 at 01:47:50

I am also using the Mazda 6v6 GT.

Please also talk to Brent Jessee about these tubes.

Peter

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 01/29/15 at 03:51:50

Got it, guys. Thanks for the heads up. I'll try to contact Jessee. With my new Tektons getting here on Saturday, I need to find the new best tube setup (its part of the fun!)

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 02/06/15 at 12:18:35

This is what Brent Jessee suggested:

Drivers:

1. 5965 Telefunken diamond mark, $200.00/pair

2. 6211 Telefunken diamond mark, $180/pair

3. E180CC Amperex pinch waist. Superb sonics, slightly warm. $250.00/pair

6V6's:

1. 6V6GT RCA grey glass $109.00/pair

2. VT107A military 6V6GT RCA made $130.00/pair

3. 5992 Bendix Aviation aircraft grade 6V6GT military type $399.00/pair

Mmmmhhhh ... tempting, but too expensive choices

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Rivieraranch on 02/07/15 at 16:05:49

You say "driver." Isn't it input or preamp?

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 02/07/15 at 18:13:43

They also drive the output tubes ... don't they?

BTW, switched back to the old Brimar 12AT7's, as these have better synergy with the Tekton Lore 2.0's, believe it or not! Seems as if the DM945's would yield to the beaming energy of the peppy Brimars. Tektons seem to absorb that energy seamlessly ... OTOH, the RCA 12Au7 black plates work better with the DM945's, as those are much more laid back.

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Rivieraranch on 02/08/15 at 13:08:55

I understood a driver to be the position between preamp and power, like the Jolida with 12AX7 inputs, 12AT7 drivers and EL84 power tubes.

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 02/08/15 at 15:22:57

You may be right, but I know my preamp input tubes (i.e., 12A*7's) really modify the behavior of my output tubes. Sort of as if these were driving them. Since the Mini does not have an intermediate position like the Jolida, in the Mini case those preamp tubes may be actually driving the output tubes. But, I stand corrected.

Semantics apart, I'm discovering a new set of potential rolling possibilities stemming from the speaker replacement. What Works ideally for one set of speakers does not work necessarily with the other. This is all new and unexpected for me, as now another variable joins the tube-rolling complexity and leverage.

I'm getting my Tung-Sol 6V6 GT's back again, with great success. Next, I'll re-try the 6414's I had discarded with the DM945's, and see what happens. At the center of these possibilities is the fact that the Lore's allow use of the Brimar 12AT7's (a beamy and hard to match preamp tube), without issues, so new synergies are now posible.

The Lore's are opening up tangibly now, and I'm liking them so far.

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Lon on 02/08/15 at 19:51:36

I think of them as "driver" tubes also, but see that they could well be best considered "input" tube. Steve skirts the issue by calling them "signal tubes" on the page for the amp. :)

Title: Re: 12AU7/E80CC work that requires more heater current
Post by Fireblade on 02/09/15 at 00:25:33

Well, that settles it. Thanks to both for correcting me. I should call them preamp tubes, as this is what they do in my integrated. Evidently, they feed triode line-level amplification, so they definitely affect the output, but not necessarily by 'driving' the output tubes. I stand corrected. :-[ :)