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A U
D I O... P A P E R
ROOM
TREATMENTS - WHERE DO I START?
SEPT 2002 by Steve
Deckert
Dimensionally
there are good rooms and there are bad rooms. Few rooms
are dimensionally perfect unless built or modified to comply
with the following formulas:
room formula
If your
room doesn't come close to one of these three ideal formulas,
welcome to the real world.
I need
to stop right here and mention that IF it is possible to move
a wall or change a ceiling height so that your room hits one
of these formulas, do it. Many rooms can be made
smaller to hit one of these formulas.
There
are two forms of room treatments. A) absorption and
B) diffusion. You will need the correct balance of both
to treat any room.
You will
know if you need room treatment by how long it takes you to
get tired of listening. If you get tired of listening
at all, you need room treatments.
Two things
are effected by the acoustics of any room. A) frequency
balance and B) sound stage resolution. It is important
to work on A) frequency balance, FIRST. It is common for
any room to create holes and peaks in the frequency balance
for any given place in the room. The most easy to notice
area is low frequency response.
Since
low frequencies are larger more evenly spaced wave fronts they
tend to wash the room evenly and fold back on themselves evenly.
When the waves fold back on themselves after hitting the
walls, they usually cancel each other out. This phenomenon
creates a zone though the center of the room with high cancellation,
or no bass. In the corners of the room and along the walls
the bass seems considerably stronger because there is less cancellation.
High frequencies
are smaller wave fronts packed close together and they do not
wash the room evenly. In fact, they radiate from your
speaker like beams of light that bounce all over your room endlessly.
Every time their paths cross, the angle of incident and
timing determines one of two results. A) Cancellation
or B) Addition. In other words, standing in one spot a
2 kHz tone may be 75dB, move 6 inches to another spot it may
be 85 dB and in another spot be only 65 dB. If you could
see sound, the combination of A and B would make your room look
like a block of Swiss cheese.
The Sound
stage resolution or imaging quality of a system is effected
by wall, floor and ceiling reflections the hit your front wall
behind the speakers and then pass back by your ear a second
time. Your brain can't tell the direct from the reflected
energy because they are too close together in both time and
volume. To correct this problem these reflections must
be BOTH delayed in time, and lowered in volume. Once done,
your brain will interpret the reflections as ambience and the
result will be a crystal clear perfectly focused sound stage.
To correct
frequency balance problems you typically use ABSORPTION.
To correct
sound stage resolution you typically use DIFFUSION.
Absorption
means simply absorbing sound across a specific band of frequencies.
Diffusion means simply diffusing sound energy into a wider pattern
with less energy.

THE
PLACE TO START in any room is a simple test of where your at.
How good, or how bad IS the room. I always focus
on frequency balance first. Walk around in your room and
clap your hand once from different locations. Listen to
the sound - in particular the decay. The hand clap should
sound dry and tight. You should hear the sound come from
everywhere at the same time. The sound should stop almost immediately
after each clap. If you hear the sound come from your hands
and nothing from the room, the room is too dead. If you
hear the sound come from the room as being louder then the sound
from your hands the room is too live.
50
milliseconds is considered a good decay. In a hard room
it's not uncommon for the decay to last over 1 second. When
this happens, there is a ringing associated with each clap.
You can repeat this test over as you add treatment to your room.
Assuming
your room needs some treatment (most do) The most obvious place
to start is with the bass. When bass is properly treated
two things happen. A) it tightens up and becomes articulate
and B) reduces the difference between the hole in the middle
of the room with no bass and the area around the perimeter of
the room where there is usually too much bass. The most
common surprise once someone has corrected the bass response
is how much bass effects the midrange and overall focus of the
sound stage.
The
common 60 to 80 cycle region that is typically way too loud
in most moderate size rooms is called "room boom".
Room boom is bad. Bass traps are the most common
way to correct low frequency issues. The problem is, many
bass traps only work across a narrow band of frequencies, most
of them too high to correct the whole problem. Bass traps
to be effective always end up being large. It's easy when
your building a room to incorporate bass traps into the structure
in a way that can not be seen. In finished rooms you have
limited options. The best product I've seen so far that
works for everyone is the CWAL unit by Acoustic Control Co.
It is a large corner unit that absorbs across a wide band
of frequencies and is always noticeable. Tube traps are
less effective but easier to purchase since you don't have to
build them yourself.
A
separate paper would be required to deal with all the different
types of traps and how to use them best so I won't cover it
here. If you're not a handyman, the best thing is to buy
what you can find, and settle for something is better than nothing.
The
next thing do is deal with midrange and high frequencies. Absorbing
these is far easier than absorbing bass frequencies. A
sponge on the wall can absorb a wavelength equal to around 4
times it's thickness. That means a 2 inch thick sponge
can easily handle high frequencies, but it would take a sponge
about 15 feet thick to handle low bass notes. That's why
bass traps were invented, an attempt to reduce the size needed
to get the job done through more efficient means of absorption.
The
ringing associated with the hand clap starts at around 2 kHz
and can easily be treated with thick rugs, 2 inch foam, or heavy
draperies. Carpet, and the type of padding under it will
have more effect on the decay of your room than anything you
will put on the walls. Unless of course you plan to create
layered absorbers for your walls, by placing an air space or
padding behind thick materials.
Your
room should be a combination of reflective and absorptive surfaces.
For example, a soft floor (carpet with padding) and a
hard ceiling. An ideal to shoot for is NO TWO PARALLEL
SURFACES should be the same. If an area of one wall is
treated with absorption, the opposing surface should be reflective.
It is possible to make two whole walls soft, and leave
two walls hard and get a fair result. A better result
comes from mixing it up a bit more than that.
Diffusers
can be considered to replace the reflective surfaces of your
room and should be especially if your room is small. The
smaller your room the more important diffusers become.
The
illustration above deals with diffusion. It shows how
the reflected sound always finds its way back to the front wall.
From the point where that reflection leaves the front
wall on is the enemy. Having a hard reflective surface
on this wall ensures that you will never experience a high resolution
sound stage or genuine sound stage depth. This is where
the big screen TV dilemma comes in. This is why we always
suggest NOT trying to blend the home theater with high quality
stereo playback.
If
you diffuse the sound that reflects off the front wall you will
have depth in your sound stage that appears to go right through
the wall. Once you have diffusers placed on your front
wall, some carefully placed diffusers on each side wall will
enhance the performance of those already placed on the front
wall. In addition they will allow your sound stage width
to expand in the same manor as the depth did when you treated
the front wall.
Adding
diffusers to the rear wall will enhance the performance of any
other diffusers you have in your room. An ideal that is
not too realistic would be to replace every flat surface in
the room with some sort of diffusion.
If
you listen to a system without diffusion vs. one with diffusion
you will notice something else begins to happen that is closely
related to frequency balance. In the untreated room the
louder you play the stereo, the worse it typically sounds. This
is the point where the room takes over. In a treated (diffused)
room this point where the room overcomes the system is pushed
to a point beyond your worries. In fact it almost seems
the louder you play it, the better and bigger it sounds.
In
conclusion, you need to create absorptive surfaces with either
foam panels or wall rugs in places around your room so that
you eliminate as many parallel surfaces of the same hardness
as possible. You need to install some sort of bass traps
in the corners to absorb the room boom. You need to install
diffusers in the correct locations to enhance the focus and
size of your sound stage. Doing so will add consistency
to the sound of your system. You will have less moments
where it sounds bad, less distractions to keep you from the
music. Only under these conditions is your system capable
of fully showing you the differences between one type of cable
or another.
 
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2007 2008 by Steve Deckert
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