Well I finally switched out the rectifier tube with a Philips 5R4GYS and the problem is still there. When the attenuator's turned all the way down the meters are at 40 mills, when I turn it up over half way the meters start pinging wild and my speaker sounds like it wants to shoot laser beams at me again.

I was about to call Decware before posting but realized their customer support's closed today.

I wish I had a back up amp to use while I send Rachel back for service.  :-/

'Luckily' my 10 year old VPI HW-17 is coming back from VPI Industries this week so I'll be able to catch up on about 30 hours of cleaning and archiving I need to do. There was nothing wrong with it electronically or mechanically but a design flaw leak had created a black mold farm inside the chassis unbeknownst to me all these years.

I forgot to mention I still have an audible amp hum seven feet away from the speaker when the attenuator's between 11 and 4 o'clock. And the amp still has a speaker busting pop while switching the input selector.

DPC,

My Rachel is also dead quiet two feet away no music playing when the attenuator is at 5 o'clock, wide open full volume. It's only when I turn the volume down does the hum begin. Please tell me how something else in the chain could be responsible for this?

Regarding the input selector speaker busting pop, so far it 'only' happens when I'm switching between my two McIntosh C8's which are on my 2nd and 3rd inputs. I haven't used the 1st and 4th inputs yet but when I switch to them, with nothing connected to them, there is no pop.

Also if you follow my thread in the FAQ forum you'll notice I've also said this is the best amp, regarding sound quality, I've ever owned as well. That doesn't mean that it's not responsible or free from responsibility for the damage and problems I've had/am having.

I mean a speaker not being driven by an amp doesn't blow itself right? I bought the Philips 5R4G tube from Upscale Audio, who tests all tubes with the best equipment before shipping them, and Decware said it found a "noise problem with the tube." Do you think it's fair if I were to return the now bad tube back to Upscale Audio?

I'm using Ortofon's highest end moving coil cartridge for standard groove. It only outputs 1.5mV and as I'm not using a SUT I have it directly connected to my C8 then to Rachel. With both the C8 and Rachel at max volume, it provides a nice full sound to fill my living room. Meaning I can't blow my speaker accidentally by turning my amps up to high. A normal listening level is Rachel full volume, C8 one notch below full volume.

I'm serious, if you think something else in my chain could be responsible then what? and why?

First, let me admit that I am the last person that should be asked for audio equipment advise.  That said, you say that the pop only comes when you switch to/from the McIntosh components.  Can you try putting another component in one of those places and take the Mac out.  My impression is that the Mac's could be sending some unwanted voltage/signal.

I also use the Phillips 5R4GYS rectifier from UpscaleAudio.  Seems to work fine for me.  I also replaced the EL34's with a pair of cyro treated Mullard's.  The jury is still out on that move.  The first set of Mullards I received gave off a horrific flash when I turned on the amp.  Shut it off immediately.  Vendor sent me a replacement set.  I'm not ready to report that the Mullard's are better than the original JJ's.

If Steve has checked over your amp and you replace any bad tubes then I'd cast an eye on the the up line components.

Just don't give up!  My experience is that when I finally find my problem I feel pretty good about it.