Hipfan, I hope the Sylvainias do what you wanted. The reason I recommended getting both those and the Raytheon was that they were both cheap, and also nice revealing tubes...the Sylvania in the direction you wanted, but likely closer to the Ruby, and the Raytheon further tending to the warm. And since semantics a is a wildcard (as well as vintage and construction of the tubes), between them I figured you would likely get a fit, while having good tubes of different character you could roll if you get into that.

The ST thing is tricky, and I have not researched the real story, but I think a lot of them are made by the same people with different labels. What I find is that plate width (the inner T-part of the plate the wires goes through can be wider or narrower), whether they have an additional pair wires between the plates...and perhaps mica shape..These appear to indicate vintage, but most importantly, variations in sound.

All my STs have ribbed black plates, and I am guessing some are made by RCA (labeled Westinghouse and RCA), and one pair with the additional internal wires (labelled Raytheon and Sylvania) made by Sylvania or Raytheon???? or are they just earlier vintage RCAs????.

For mine the getter difference seems to have less sound effect than plate/mica combo...which I can't differentiate since mine have matched plate and mica structures for each of the pairs, and each pair is different from the others.

With one pair, the one with additional, central internal wires, and with medium width central part of the plate T, and with round top mica (no spurs), is the most open...closest to the Ruby sound but I think smoother. The pair with a thinner internal T part of the plates, and with round top mica with spurs, is in the middle sound-wise. And the widest central plate T (where the T "base" extends past the vertical wires that go up the plates) and with rectangular/spurred top mica, are the most liquid/warm. I can't say one is better than another, just different.

The one thing I would do, is be sure the tubes you choose are identical in structure.

Ah, soon you will be swapping tubes!

Finally home from vacation and my tubes were here when I arrived. This is my first time tube rolling and I have a question. The stock Rubys have 4 pins. The Sylvania's have 8 pins and the Raytheon's have 5 pins. Is there a reason for this?

Hi Hipfan and Will,

Most tube rectifiers have the same B8A - Octal 8 Pin base.

http://www.r-type.org/static/baseb8a.htm

For those rectifiers with all 8 pins, not every pin is "active" and in actual electrical use.
The tube manufacturers came out with 4 pins and 5 pins etc as a cost-cutting measure.

my opinion so far;  
tesla nos and new 6922 last place.. slightly dull but tolerable
electro harmonix 6922 (shipped w)..clear concise, little thinner than the
phillips ECG6922 .. great tubes lots of color and full sound
telefunken 7dj8's nos.. my fav. tight, clear, deep sound...very German precise and on point... very detailed. of course they were also the most expensive
this is fun

Hi I'm new to the forum and in need of some help.  I've had my Torii for a few months now.  I recently tried the RCA 5U4GB tall bottle as talked about on this thread.  The thing is the base of the tube is too wide and the screws that hold the socket in place on the amp prevent it from completely seating and so the tubes don come on.  Has anyone had this issue and what can be done about it?  Thanks.

I think most of my rectifiers rest on the screws to various degrees and work...including the stock Rubys. Since the contacts in the sockets start working pretty soon after you start the pins into the socket (I just pulled the Sylvania 5U4GB I am using out so you could see a good 1/8-3/16" of the pins from the side, and they worked) I am wondering if your issue is something else.

Not knowing how familiar you are with tubes....I guess the RCAs have the socket guides intact? Do the soldered pin tips look smooth and without cracks? Have you cleaned the pins? A couple thoughts.