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Solder Cable Directly to Driver (Read 1289 times)
dwolek
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Solder Cable Directly to Driver
06/13/11 at 18:01:11
 
Is there any reason why I couldn't attach my speaker cable (Kimber 4TC) leads directly to the clips of the DFR8 (other than losing the conveniece of switching cables and the added risk of a tear out).  I would obviously attach the cable to the cabinet (HDT) so that I would not damage the driver if it were pulled.  Any special technique or advise.  Alternatily, what internal wiring should be used if I decide to go this route (? awg, silver/copper....)
Thanks
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Crazy Bill the Eel Killer
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Tubes Rule !!

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Re: Solder Cable Directly to Driver
Reply #1 - 07/26/11 at 02:18:06
 
Hello dwolek,

Just noticed this thread, don't have a chance to get here too often lately.

I'm vacationing at the Cape presently, so I don't have enough time to give you a proper, detailed answer. ( Very little computer time ). Give me a couple of weeks and I promise I will get back to you w/ details. However, just to whet your appetite a bit, the short answer is most definetly YES.  What you propose will be better than using your binding posts.

Be patient. I'll get back to you ASAP.

Cheers,              Crazy Bill          :) 
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Crazy Bill the Eel Killer
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Tubes Rule !!

Posts: 85
Re: Solder Cable Directly to Driver
Reply #2 - 09/07/11 at 14:29:14
 
Hello dwolek,

My apologies, I forgot about this thread.

First, eliminating the binding posts and going directly to the speaker tabs will give an increase in many aspects of the musical performace. Every junction/solder joint you can eliminate in the signal path is a good thing.

You have two ways to fasten the Kimber to the DFR8.

1). Solder the connector that slips on the speaker tabs directly to the Kimber. You will need a hot iron, but there is nothing difficult about the procedure. This eliminates the possibility of damaging the VC from excessive heat from the soldering gun ( a real concern ).

2). The best way however is to solder the Kimber directly to the speaker tabs. You MUST use heat sinks to protect the delicate wires in the VC. Were I to do this, I would use two heat sinks per tab ( I use fly fishing forceps ), so that the entire tab is covered by the forceps between where you are soldering the Kimber and the end connected to the vc wire. This will give you the best chance to not damage anything.

FWIW, and others of course may disagree,  I'm a firm believer in the " slam  bang, thank you ma'am " school of soldering. Get it hot quick, get the job done, and get out. I set the temp on my gun to 800 Deg F for everything I solder. I use heat sinks, and the hot gun gets the solder flowing much faster. As soon as the solder flows, I remove the heat. I haven't fried anything yet using this technique, though I'm sure I will someday.

My HDT's are an older version ( circa 2002 ). Are your binding posts mounted on a plate or directly to the cabinet mdf. I've got some ideas how you could secure the cable depending on your config.

Have fun.

Cheers,                  Crazy Bill
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