One of the user pics seems to show a home built ZOB with felt lining the inside of the entire resonance chamber!?!  Is this as wrong as I think it is? If no felt is used on the inside of the chamber do you paint it or seal it? Polyurethane?

The spikes... attached 'hard' or with felt? My instinct is they should be 'hard' attached

No mention is made in the plans of how you attach the boards to each other. Glue... screws.. brackets? Screws into the end grain of any processed wood is usually not a good solution.

Probably think of three more ?'s as soon as I post this

Thanks

Before I start this project, there are a few questions that I have concerning the cabinet(box). The first would be about the material used for the box( not the baffle). Does it matter as much as in other speakers what material is used? This enclosure is not a pressurized design, and I wonder if the material used affects the sound as in other speakers. I thought that I might use plywood or MEDEX(a type of mdf product but denser). Also, would the thickness of the material be as important? I'm not suggesting a cardboard box , but want to know the limitations of the materials needed.
 Still, I have not seen an answer to the question about lining the box with felt. I see that stuffing has been mentioned, but how much?

Thx in advance for your time.   Greg

I agree with ZYGI on the MEDEX. MEDEX is an acronym for exterior mdf as it is water proof (resistant actually) and not as prone to the expansion the lower grades are.
Living in Hawaii, I can use neither and used marine ply with 13 laminations for my HDT build. Worked well.

Nowhere is city proper for me. The nearest Home Depot is 98 miles away. And MEDEX, well they just gave me a strange look when I proposed to order some. They did have 9 ply available, but I don't know how that ranks with the other options. I wonder if HDF is good enough.....

Your ahead of me. I am just cutting out the baffles today. I am using 1 3/4" cherry. The rest of the build is still forming in my mind. Will probably use a 9 ply  plywood if I can get the quality that is needed. I figure that material can be added to dampen the enclosure if it is too woody or boxy sounding.

There really is nothing like the beauty of wood. Thanks for sharing the photos. It makes my mouth water.....As I recall, I spent about $80-90 per piece for the lumber. Unfortunately, the shipping was nearly as much! I just got done planing the boards tonight. Cherry is so much more attractive to me after a few years of darkening. I will try to take a picture of them tomm, but I always fail to be able to get pics onto this website, cuz it says that the files are too large. Then when I reduce them, it doesn't like something else about it. I don't remember what anymore. But I could e'mail them to you or something....

Good to know  'D'.  I wouldn't bet on it, but I either have a 3 1/4 hole saw, or a circle jig for my router that will accomidate.  Now ya have me wondering.....    Btw, I checked out the prices for 17 ply and the 'perfect plank' wood, and even though I think that the prices are fair, they are out of my range.  The ply was $110, and the other was $152, and that still probably wasn't enough board feet...dang! I will have to take a trip to Montana to find anything better than what is available here in Wyo.

Thanks  and that is something I could have used. I do have an Ace Hardware and did go there.. when I asked for a hole saw and they didn't have the one I needed they didn't suggest this which makes me wonder if they had it. Very small Ace hardware... kind of an afterthought added on to (and completely supported by) the Farm Bureau CO-OP.

Anyway I have already ordered and received the one from Amazon, I cut my holes yesterday.

Now I just need a new Table Saw.... Oh Yeah did I mention I burnt up my table saw on this project? LOL. Yes I did but there is a story about the saw.  It belonged to my dad who kept it in his basement shop. When he passed away I got all the tools but before that there was a flood and the table saw and some other tools got submerged. The Table saw was never the same since. It still worked (very loudly) for light work but 2 sheets of 3/4 board isn't very light. Also it's no great loss because even when it was new (about 30 years ago) it was a very cheap one.  

About the spikes

Are the dimensions on the spikes important. I am assuming they aren't since no mention is made about their size in the ZOB plans. Tall enough to keep the box off the carpet so it can resonate? Pointy so the spikes themselves dampen as little as possible?

Dad's shop was mostly metal working tools and the lathe works just fine. I have a piece of stainless steel stock about 2" or so diameter that I plan to turn these out of