BoilermakerFan
Verified Member

Posts: 10
|
big L went BIG!
I look forward to hearing your impressions with the SEAS, but for now, they're out of my acceptable price range as I have other audio gear I need to build and a set of Audez'e LCD-2 headphones to fund.
I can't use MDF or even HDF. It's too full of poisons and the off gassing triggers migraine headaches in my wife, but I was also told that good old Baltic Birch or the bamboo "plywood" would be a better material to use too.
Would a constrained dampening layer like EAR products between the front bezel layers help or hurt?
I was seriously considering using the bamboo for the front, a EAR constrained dampening layer, and a hardwood (walnut in my case) plywood for the back layer. I'm planning to use brass inserts in the back so I can use bronze hex cap screws to mount the front bezel sealing it with a great felt I use for tuning orthodynamic headphones. This felt has the best acoustic properties I've ever heard and is very effective and killing the resonances while not sucking the life out of the music like many other felts I've tried tend to do.
If the general opinion is that it will do more harm than good, I'll change the plan, otherwise, I'll carry on.
The TB has a Xmas of 5mm vs. the Fostex's 1.5mm and the Qts is almost 2 times higher than the FE207 (and 3 times higher than the FE206, which is why the shielded FE207 is working better), so improvements should help load the horn more effectively, but I'm sure some tweaking will be involved. The upper end of the TB driver is better on paper too. The enABL'ing process will smooth it out some as well.
DPC, I'll definitely post pics.
|