Shree: Be sure and post pics!
Good Luck with your project!
Don

The front baffle can be screwed and glued to the cabinet.  That is how the prototype was made and what the listening evaluations were based on.  

However, I believe if you pinned the front baffle to the cabinet with 4 screws over a layer of 1/8 inch felt, the speaker could sound even better.  With the compression of the felt this would stand the baffle approx. 1/16 inch off the cabinet.  This would in turn ad 1/16 inch to the thickness of the slot behind the baffle.  I do not think the increased area of that slot will cause any issues.  Of course it wouldn't be hard to reduce the area of that slot back to it's original size by adding some 1/16 inch material to the back of the baffle in that location.

Steve

To reiterate Shreekant's question.....

Is there a set amount of stuffing in the cabinet, or does it need to be tuned to fit the room and equipment?

Steve/Bob, if you can elaborate on what you did, it will give budding builders a starting point.

Thanks

Simon

Hi Steve,

As I'm living in Europe I've to convert your drawing to our standards over here.

First I draw all the parts and connected them using pro SolidWorks 3D software.

I found some minor errors and therefor the placement of the internal panel is not very clear to me. Will you give the distance from the bottom of the internal panel to the bottom of the cabinet and to the rear panel?

Page 6: the gap between the internal panel and panel 7 is different from the distance mentioned on the next page. Which one is correct?

Given the data from my SolidWorks drawings I read out 14.2 degrees instead of 15.6 for panel 6. We can't make it that accurate anyway.

Thanks for sharing this great design with the crowd.

Sorry for dropping the ball on this thread..


Page 6 is a missprint.  Page 7 is correct.