The HWK should not have a problem playing that low especially with those subs. The HWK is a large enclosure and I personally think a smaller enclosure will make you just as happy. The DB should also be more than capable of producing low bass but stiil not what I have in mind.

I've had good luck with the Decware inverted wedge type(half wedge) design and by the specs given for those subs it would seem to be ideal in a sealed type enclosure. I know when you crunch the numbers for that sub and sealed enclosure it don't add up to what you are wanting but believe when I say you have got to hear it with your own ears to believe.

I used two Dayton Classic 18"s in a four cubic foot half wedge enclosure. From 14' away two of them put out about 104db @ 31Hz(75w-100w each enclosure). The subs are hardly moving and could easily go 110db, more than enough for HT.

Is this the best enclosure for you? Maybe, but that is just my opinion. The enclosure should be smaller(two cubic foot enclosure) than the others and put out about the same if not more SPL for HT. Again just my two cents. If you would like more info let me know.


HT-EXT

I also use WinISD to see what each sub will do in certain type enclosures. Sometimes it is close, sometines not. With a sealed box and Classic 18" it was not even close. Will the AXIS wedge beat the JL?
I don't know but with my experience with 18" it is not even half the sub that the AXIS is. I have tried the 18" in regular sealed, ported, and Iso-ported. The wedge was the best overall hands down.

For the most part a slotted port enclosure should be the best for what you are wanting. High spl, with low bass response, and descent SQ. It is hard to tell what will work the best until you build it and see or hear. My next project is a half wedge with a Series II 15". Let me know what you decide to build.



HT-EXT

WinIsd Pro will do slotted ports.

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

The wedge is set up for 10"s or 12"s. For your 15"s the enclosure will need to be 3 cu.ft.(+/-0.5 cu.ft.). Dims. for the half wedge should be 16" x 20" x 20"(HxWxD). The opening should be about 4" x 18.5". Don't forget about the 1" clearence at the rear or the enclosure for the sub baffle. If you are not happy with the results then I would try porting the enclosure.


HT-EXT


Here are the pics of the Half Wedge build.

http://s541.photobucket.com/albums/gg367/HT-EXT/Half%20Wedge%2018/

The sub should be oriented in the middle of the baffle. You should be about 2" away from the very back. You will prolly still need to check the clearence. You could double the sub baffle and counter stink the sub 3/4 " into the enclosure. Just a thought. I say you could also go maybe 2" at the back but not much more.


HT-EXT


These designs are the slot-ported sub enclosures I was talking about.


http://poundthatsound.com/index.html

Report #1 Wedge Box
I drew the full size scale of the one side of box on cardboard. From my past experience I have come to find it is much easier to make any changes in case you run into any problems. This can save you time and money on wood if you screw up plus allow you to measure the exact angle degrees.  

1.   Since I am using 15s the first problem I ran into is I will need to add 4” to the length of the box from the drawing.

2.   The AXIS subs have quit a big surround so I added ½” to the back and added 1” to the front of the wedge from the drawing. At the back of the wedge the clearance that I have from the bottom is 1 1/8” this should give me enough. But I am still a little worried about having enough room seeing as the XMax is 1.10” for these subs. ( is the  XMax excursion one way movement or is the 1” both directions combined? ) If anyone knows?

3.  My next step is recalculating my measurements on paper.

Basshead

Report # 2 Wedge box

1.   Well all is going as planned but for one minor problem I am 3/4 “ too shot of the length of the box due to the way  I added the port but I should be ok. I could always try poly fill or something if I don’t have enough cubic feet.

2.   Slowly but surely I am getting the one box done. I always double check my measurements to make sure I don’t mess up.

3.   I will try to add my pics another way. The pic I have are too big. 826 kb

4.   One major problem I ran into was with my crown XTI 4000 amp. When I tried it I didn’t get the full potential out of the amp. I am not getting a lot of watts out to the sub it barely thumps. Any suggestions anyone??            I am hoping it’s a setting on my receiver or the amp.  I even tried another brand sub and it was the same. I also by passed my home Denon AVR 3808 receiver and connected it to a car DC player not much change a little louder! Now I didn’t put the sub in a box it was free air but for an amp that’s 3200 watts it should move it big time.  So if anyone could help I would appreciate it. Is it the amp ,should I get a different brand or is it a voltage problem in the cables?

Basshead

Is there another amp you would recommend to use that puts out min 1000 watts per channel that could work with home application?  I do have 30 day money back where I can send back the amp if needed.

Now I found out that the Crowns X-over filters out 90Hz and above that is the lowest, and it allows all Hz to go through the sub maybe that amp isn’t the best for me? Unless I bypass the x-over.

I read that someone had 4-15’s AXIS they used behringer amps on each sub I didn’t want to use that brand due to it not having an x-over. But correct me if I am wrong I will run into the same problem I am having no matter what PA amp I use right?

I was thinking of using two Dayton HPSA 1000W amps one on each sub but I got a good deal on my crown paid $550. If I go with the Dayton it would cost more $1150 I didn't want to spent that much.  Link is the Dayton amp.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-808

I will buy the Art –CB but I don’t want to waist the time if it won’t work since I have less than 25 days to return the amp.
Basshead