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Deathbox 212 (Read 6143 times)
Alan B.
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Deathbox 212
10/22/09 at 02:52:11
 
hi everyone, spent the last few weeks mulling over the plans and all the differant boxes on the decware site and decided to buy the plans and make a deathbox212.
only problem i am having, is i cant get my head around how the subs mount once the box is built.

the plans are very poor and i cant find the person who re wrote them with instructions now that i've registered and bout the plans.
anyway

the box goes together all screwed and glued before the subs get near it right?
and both subs mount cone to cone, what pannel do they mount to?
i got the impression the mounted face to face, on either side of panel A but that is an 11x11 panal, so how would 12's mount to that?
so does that mean they mount to panal B?

what i really want is a few pics of the subs going into the finished box showing the mounts. i dont want to start building before i understand the instructions.
also, i have proof that i bought the plans if needed for any reason

thanks, alan
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HT-EXT
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #1 - 10/22/09 at 11:51:33
 
Here is the exploded view of the DB212.

http://www.decware.com/newsite/dbk12.htm

The picture is upside down so the panel you mount the subs to is not in view but it does show a good pic of the insert. I like to be able too take the insert in and out of the enclosure. This way you can mount the subs to the insert and then install it into the DB. The subs should be mount to the bottom of the insert in the picture. I know it is a little confusing but when you build the insert there is only one place you can mount the subs and the enclosure operate properly. If you need more info let me know.


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" I TRY TO THINK BUT NUT'EN HAPPENS! " CURLY
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Alan B.
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #2 - 10/22/09 at 17:49:12
 
going off that pic so, am i right in saying, there would be a magnet side of one sub "hanging" from the underside, and another magnet inside the box from the second sub?
with both subs clamshelled on the bottom panel in that pic?

if thats the case, then do i mount the subs either side of that panel in a sub/wood/sub combo, or would it be more sub/sub/wood and what fixings are the easiest to use in this instance?

i was thinking something along the lines of m50x5 bolts threaded up through the wood and two subs from the inside and nuts on the end at the back of the outer sub?
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HT-EXT
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #3 - 10/22/09 at 18:10:53
 
You have alot of options when mounting the subs. Alot of people counter sink the first sub into the baffle (magnet inside the insert) and then mount the other sub directly to it. Not my favorite. You could leave the baffle for the insert removeable and attact one sub to each side of the baffle. Counter sink the first sub and use another piece of mdf to make a sub baffle to attach to the insert that would fit directly over the top of the first sub. It is really up to the builder to decide which way he or she likes best.

Anytime I clamshell two subs I prefer a small gap between the subs so they will not come in contact with one another. You could also use weather striping to give that little bit of distance between subs when clamshelling. The options are yours to pick from. Build it and Boom.



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« Last Edit: 10/22/09 at 18:12:42 by HT-EXT »  

" I TRY TO THINK BUT NUT'EN HAPPENS! " CURLY
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Alan B.
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #4 - 10/22/09 at 20:39:30
 
i was thinking of building the mounting surface in a way that it is like a lid (the same as the outer boux's lid) and then fitting some weather stripping to the inside where i would not be able to caulk when the subs are in. and then just screw that piece down after mounting the subs on either side of it.
heres a sketch i did of what i mean, the dotted line being the join between the "lid" and the box
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subs.jpg
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HT-EXT
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #5 - 10/23/09 at 11:22:17
 
Sounds like a good plan to me. I have built the DB with the insert baffle removeable. It helps when changing subs and you don't haft to pull the insert in and out of the enclosure.


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" I TRY TO THINK BUT NUT'EN HAPPENS! " CURLY
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HT-EXT
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #6 - 10/23/09 at 11:22:47
 
Sounds like a good plan to me. I have built the DB with the insert baffle removeable. It helps when changing subs and you don't haft to pull the insert in and out of the enclosure.


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" I TRY TO THINK BUT NUT'EN HAPPENS! " CURLY
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Alan B.
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #7 - 10/23/09 at 12:47:36
 
cool, thanks.
i'll run with that idea for now so unless i come upon some issue with it.
(i hav a sinking feeling i might have an issue with space on the inside but think i have a way around it sorted already just in case)
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Alan B.
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #8 - 10/31/09 at 09:52:03
 
so i've built my deathbox (just about)
i've the inner box built but left the lower panel G and the top panal B loose for the minute.

when i offered up my subs i noticed that the box isnt big enough inside for the sub to be mounted like i had drawn in the above pic, the rim of the sub where the screws go, rests on the top edges of the insert walls.

so now i'm back to square 1, how do i bolt both subs in place.
i just cant see how if i screw the lower one in, how i fix the upper one as the rim of the first blocks where the screws would go into the mdf (obviously you might say)

so how do i mount the subs?
do i use 1 set of scres through both subs mounting rings?
would this hold the subs tight so they dont rattle?

can somebody take a pic of there insert with the subs mounted to it?
showing the screws or bolts.

thats where i'm at so far, 1st sub resting in place, no screws.

and here is the second one resting in place sitting on the first
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dank
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pair of dual 18
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #9 - 10/31/09 at 14:25:56
 
Here are a couple shots from my db10 build.  I think they are the same as the db12.




I used bolts through both speakers to mount the speakers, but it looks as though there is enough wood there to use screws if you wanted to.  If it is a major pain in the @#$ to move your first speaker totally inside the insert box I would suggest trying the DB12 with only one speaker.  If you don't really, really like it with one speaker, you probably aren't going to like it all that much better with two.  Also note that a DB12 can be quite dependent on its environment.  I had mine in my car and it was ok, but nothing spectacular.  Then a friend, who has had a lot of auto audio experience, tried it in a van and it preformed better than any sub he had ever heard (I haven't seen the DB12 since).  

Dan
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ZYGI
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #10 - 11/01/09 at 02:30:49
 
Allen B.,

 If I build the DK-212 with calm shell'ed drivers I just make an adapter, which is no more than a 1/2 to 3/4" thick ring so the surrounds can't touch   each other....If you do this make sure you wire the drivers out of phase with each other.

What Dank did was just fine, it might not of needed to be that thick, but I didn't see the drivers.
ZYGI
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All Decware amps and sources, Turning Point Audio speakers
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Alan B.
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Re: Deathbox 212
Reply #11 - 11/02/09 at 01:11:58
 
what dank has done wont work on a DB212 as the inside size is only 12inches so the sub only just fits as it is.

what i have done is similir to dank,
i cut an extra panal B, and
i used a router to house cut the speaker hole into one side of them.
thinning the panal to 6mm.
this let me sink the first sub into the panal, i used 4 screws on this sub in the holes that where over the sides of the inner box.
then i used the extra panal b i cut and had the routed side facing down, this meant the extra bit of the sub's rim that was sitting above the surface of the first panal, would sit into the cut out of the second one so the second panal would sit flat, then i screwed the second sub face down using short screws in the 4 holes that lined up with the other screws, and longer screws in the others to go through both subs and the wood.

the extra bit of work means i dont have to have the speakers touching at all and gives that little extra bit of clearence for the cones moving.

well, it's all together now and i have to say, i'm very very impressed.
have it in the boot of my car (528cubic litres) and it pounds very hard for the cheap subs i have in it.

gotta finish the edges of it and smooth it down then paint it.
then make another one now that i know how. Shocked
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