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Subs won't hit in my truck (Read 2074 times)

Steve Deckert

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Subs won't hit in my truck
08/06/09 at 18:21:43

Quote:

Steve,

I've been a fan of your designs for a super long time. I bumped into your old site a long time ago when I first got into audio. I've always wanted to try something of yours. Hope to one day build a Housewrecker.

I have a truck related subwoofer dilemma for you. I've had the same single 12" sealed box in two different cars and now it is mounted in my truck. The old cars were a camaro (upfiring sub at the back glass) and Scion tC (reverse firing towards the license plate). Both setup's sounded really well. Now I have a single cab Tundra with a lot of room behind the back seat (not your typical cramped single cab, have about 17" of depth with at least that in height to play with) and can't seem to get my setup to hit as deep or loud.

I assume I'm dealing with some cabin gain issues. The truck seals very well. Firing at the back wall puts the woofer close to the wall and doesn't sound great. Firing up seems to be better.

Do you have a suggestion on what designs would work well in this truck. I was leaning towards the inverted wedge but wasn't for sure if it worked well in my application. Maybe go with the truck box with 2 x 10's. Would something ported help out? I listen to alot of techno and dance type music where I need good musical bass with decent low end.

Thanks for any guidance.

Cheers!
Justin

If you can give the inverted wedge a perfectly flat and very solid surface to sit on, then I think you'll find what you're looking for.

Steve

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mamboo

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Posts: 1

Re: Subs won't hit in my truck
Reply #1 - 08/06/09 at 18:37:52

Didn't really realize how much the coupling was an issue with solid surfaces till I read some more in the forum. The floor behind my seats has a nice flat plastic floor that sits over top of the body metal. I don't think it would be solid enough for this application.

Building a floor into the box isn't a good idea either correct? The whole point is making sure the box lays against the body of the vehicle for maximum effect.

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musgofasa

Seasoned Member

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monkey? I want to
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Posts: 556

Re: Subs won't hit in my truck
Reply #2 - 08/30/09 at 12:59:00

Wow,
Can't believe this has been sitting for almost a month and I missed it. Just in case you make it back here to check:

The key phrase in your last post is "maximum effect". The "best" scenario is coupling to the body of the space you are filling with sound. In a hatchback you can get the most by either firing at the class or at the floor or if possible coupling to both. (think fiberglass or "false floor" mounted close enough to the glass for band pass output). If you are in a trunk, you can couple the entire enclosure through creative use of space or, again, loading to the floor of the vehicle. Both require a solid surface of the floor for "maximum effect".

If you have barriers to mounting directly to the floor or an odd shaped floor, then the "next best thing" is a bandpass design that loads itelf. With the amount of room you have, I might recommend a scaled down HWK or possibly a DB12 or even a pair of DB10s, DB12s, or (if you can make it fit) a WO. Lots of options, but all of the above would include a bandpass design. I have even found the slim, bandpass designs to fit behind the standard cab truck seat to be a better option than sealed or ported.

Good luck! Update us on your progress and how it sounds when you get it finished!

Take care,
Robert

The graveyard is full of important men

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HT-EXT Seasoned Member NYUK NYUK NYUK Posts: 272	Re: Subs won't hit in my truck Reply #3 - 11/30/09 at 20:13:35 Does anyone know if he used the same head unit in each vehicle? Was the factory radio used in the Tundra? My problem started with Subaru radios. They have a bad habit of reducing bass at high volumes due to the small speakers installed from the factory. Just a thought ??? HT-EXT
Back to top	« Last Edit: 11/30/09 at 20:13:59 by HT-EXT » " I TRY TO THINK BUT NUT'EN HAPPENS! " CURLY IP Logged

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