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Grilles and Flush Mounting (Read 3277 times)
musgofasa
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Grilles and Flush Mounting
07/09/08 at 18:17:59
 
Good afternoon all.
I am about to build a modified set of HDTs. I was wondering two things. The factory versions appear to have a corner peice added which Ziggy was kind enough to explain to me. I was thinking to do something a bit different though. I wanted to change the sides up and extend them forward far enough to inset a full length grille. Considering the Passives on the sides and radial type output from the dispersion plates, I don't think this will make a huge difference, but I hear a lot of talk of Baffle Step. I am wondering if this idea might somehow smear or constrict the output from the front driver?

Second, the plans show the passives as flush mounted, but the driver hole doesn't show as being flushed. Any input on that?


Thanks guys, Hopefully these will be up and running in the next couple of weeks. Pics to follow.

Take care,
Robert
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musgofasa
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Re: Grilles and Flush Mounting
Reply #1 - 07/14/08 at 15:35:23
 
Well I decided to go ahead with the build. I got my ports cut and shaped over the weekend, built the passives, and cut all my boards except for the cross braces. I have those cut to length, but I am going to wait until the box is assembled before I cut those to fit. I want them tight. I can't wait to hear these things.

Now if I can just come up with the money for a better source and amplifier! lol

Take care,
Robert
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Re: Grilles and Flush Mounting
Reply #2 - 07/16/08 at 03:25:27
 
Ziggy advised me that he didn't feel it was necessary to flush mount the driver on the front baffle.  He uses a foam sheet to make a gasket for the driver - I can't remember the brand off the top of my head, but it is readily available at Michael's craft stores.  There are several reasons for recessing the passive radiators (per Ziggy).  The first reason is to help you center the radiator more easily while gluing it in place.  The second is that it protects the passives while being shipped.  Hope that helps.  I got a lot of phone time in with Ziggy while building my HDT MkIIs.

Jack
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musgofasa
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Re: Grilles and Flush Mounting
Reply #3 - 07/16/08 at 17:23:40
 
Thanks Jack,

I hadn't thought about the gasket, but I do already have the material so I will definitely do that.

I only live a couple hours from Bob. He doesn't know it yet, but if I get in trouble, I will be knocking on his door, lol.

I started taking pics last weekend, but haven't really made enough progress to post yet. Hopefully saturday will see some construction worth showing off.

Take care,
Robert
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Re: Grilles and Flush Mounting
Reply #4 - 07/21/08 at 00:53:15
 
OK Finally started making sawdust.







The alt tuning ports are long! lol I can't wait to get the rest put together, but I only have the two clamps and limited experience with complex cuts. I am dreading the dado cut for the center brace since I don't have a dado blade. I plan on doing it with my router, wish me luck! Hopefully I will get the second box to this point before next weekend and I can caulk and dampen them at the same time. Considering that I will be using the silver flute and a fostex driver, which method of damping do you guys think will work best? I was thinking to dampen the whole front chamber and put the egg crate in the bottom and leave the other three chambers undamped.

Any suggestions?

Robert
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musgofasa
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Re: Grilles and Flush Mounting
Reply #5 - 07/27/08 at 21:31:41
 
OK Gang,

I just thought I was decent at woodworking. For anyone who is going to build one of these I have a bit of advice. Make sure you use either particle board or extremely high quality ply. Mine was not that great and after sitting in my garage a while it started to warp. With the internals of this box requiring a very good fit, it takes some extremely hard work to make warped boards work. I had a total of 16 clamps on one of these for 6 days! I took those off this morning and now will have two more clamps on the same box for the next 5 or 6 days I imagine.

On a good note, my second turned out perfect. The wood was pretty straight and it only took 4 clamps to get it setting. I am going to finish the good one and start staining, but I believe my warped up wood is going to cause HDT #2 to take at least a week longer to get ready Sad

I hope they sound as good as I think they are going to looK! lol

More to come
Robert
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