60, it's hard to say what will happen.  The reason is because the horn is way too small to do what it does if horn theory is applied to it.  It is true that bigger horns are better if you want to go low, but we are talking about a horn that is about 20 feet long with a 27 sq foot mouth to get a 20 hz note.  And that still requires corner loading.  Use that sucker for a coffee table (lol) and it would suck hard.  You don't want to mod that much, do you?

Nobody really knows exactly what will happen when you mess with the horn, that's why you aren't getting any more than guesses.

But everyone seems to agree that you should change it only as much as you absolutely have to.

If I had to do it, I might extend the height and width (to make the chambers a bit bigger), and leave the depth alone.  But I would also take care not to make the horn longer, or change it in any way.  Now it won't fit in a car anymore either.  If you don't care about going lower, just add 2 inches, I can almost guarantee that will be the loudest option.

Now if anyone thinks differant or knows differant I am all ears

[quote author=60ndown  link=1149820011/15#19 date=1150053439]where does steve sujjest adding 2 inches for 12s? [/quote]

Well until I can get back onto ADSL the search is up to you.
I did talk with him about putting 12" in a WO32 quite awhile back, and he said to use 12" in a WO instead and adjust the height to accomdate the larger driver.( too slow to use spell checker, now you know I can't spell either LOL)
then in HT forum when we were talking about HT specifically he said to use the DB12.

I never doubt Steve I just like to play around and not follow good advice.
I need a better driver to make it work well and his dayton series 2 choice is what I would use.
Thats all I got 60. I see that you posted in the general I would like to see what comes of that with the pros in there.

[quote author=musgofasa  link=1149820011/15#21 date=1150072495]Hey 60, I just realized this post was over here after I replied to your other post a few minutes ago. After reading the posts here, I have a little more info that might be more appropriate.
Way back in the day (1999 to be exact) I had built several 10"WO and experimented with porting the sealed chamber, angling the baffle, moving the baffle etc in an attempt to make the box play louder. Every change I made to the original design had the affect of changing the frequency response of the enclosure. moving the baffle towards the throat made the frequency response a little lower, but made the box very boomy. It did not help the SPL output at all. (In car) When I built a WO exactly by the plans and put a pair of 8" woofers in it I was so surprised at how clean and loud the box was. I later took and swapped to building Vented enclosures for SPL for reasons of achieveing a wall mounting in vehicles. I built a box for a CRX with 2 JL 15W3s and went a little overboard. I used the flare rate and the length from a WO36 and extended the port all the way to the front and double loaded the box. This thing was so smooth and Loud it was unbelievable. That has been my approach to almost every project since then. Basically I think of the WO as a band pass enclosure with a tuned port. The horn flare isn't long enough to act as a transducer and or impedance changing device across much of a frequency range. When I added to all the dimensions of the enclosure I found that the desired effect of the horn/port was lost. It just became a long port rather than having any positive effect on sound quality.
The rub is you don't know what it will sound like until it is built and you don't know if you will like it until you hear it. I know that for my personal tastes, I wouldn't build the box in a 1.2 size unless I was looking for large bass and little freq range. I think that would be a safe bet. If you are only looking to make it sound bigger then scale away. I wouldn't want to try to model the output based on the horn length as it is so short that I am sure it would only show a graph like that of a tuned port or a standard "bass reflex" enclosure. If you like that idea, then I would say build away though. Perhaps the question is what is the sound that you hope to achieve and what science and experience is available to work towards that goal. Wish I could offer a solid answer here, but I think it is a little bit of a niche that hasn't been tested enough to give good, solid answers about. Unfortunately all of my experience with 12" WOs has been boomy and SPL intended for cars not homes. All of the Home audio experience I have with WO has been great, but little mods. Hope you get what you are looking for there 60. let us know.

Robert [/quote]

great response thanks, what i want first is excellent sq, secondly the ability to make 'sickeningly' loud and accurate bass (but retaining absolute sq) if im in the mood.not spl, just amazing sq and really loud (sql).from your above post im guessing any variation from the 'origional wo10' results in a less flat response? so like i have been told above, sounds like building it 36 x36 x 14.5 is the first version i must try! but it will a few days before im ready to build it so if you think of anything else i would appreciate the heads up.

i want as flat as possible from 18 too 60 / 70  hz, in my car with this box.flat dry accurate bass with the ability to get plenty loud.did you ever build 1 with the difference in size being equal to the difference in sq inch area between a 10 and a 12? i have no idea what that is? wed have to work out the sq inch of a 10 then a 12 and reveal the % of difference. then build the new wo by that % scaleing difference.i just dont understand why, if the layout of the wo is kept identical to the origional, just bigger, why it will change the performance, taper would be the same?

[quote author=Adrian D.  link=1149820011/15#25 date=1150117310]seeing how the rl-i 10 performs... (better than my db-10 + infinity ref1040w, only it's in a box twice the size of mike recomeds) i'd suggest trying the wo with 2 of rl-is. but you will have to watch the gain. the orion could kill them. maybe wire each in series and parallel the 2 subs. it would present the orion a 4 ohm load. [/quote]

no, going to use these rl-ps if it kills me.not buying new subs, the wife will kill me

why is it ok to scale it for a car but not for a house?