Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Decware Audio Forums
12/28/14 at 08:10:00



Pages: 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 ... 20
Send Topic Print
hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver (Read 44283 times)
John in CR
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #60 - 05/03/06 at 14:52:36
 
Guys,

Don't get fooled by hype.  That sound splinter thing has the specs of a piece of junk,  primarily Qts .95, Fs 25.5, and SPL 82db.  Plus I'm sure that Xmax is point to point, so the true Xmax is 18mm.  They're pretty and would make nice OB or IB woofers, but that's about it.  Their own graphs show a steep roll off below 30hz even with the 10cuft enclosure.
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #61 - 05/03/06 at 14:57:39
 
John are you teasing me?

Bob
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Adrian D.
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #62 - 05/03/06 at 15:07:14
 
whoops. john, the rl-s has a Klippel verified xmax of 38.5 mm (one way xmax, so 3inch peak-to-peak). it supposedly broke the measuring device when the guys at tc sounds played with it. qts is that high, because the BL is constant on the whole stroke . on any sub the qts varies across the stroke because bl varies across the stroke. xbl^2 is nothing compared to that when it comes to linearity.
info on the topology used by the rl-s : http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2748
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/03/06 at 15:11:01 by adi_ro »  
  IP Logged
HT-EXT
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #63 - 05/03/06 at 15:43:04
 
Bob do not get rid of the HWK. Just build another sub, of course on a budget, to complete the circus. WO36, WO32, or some of John suggestions that could be located in front of you to play lower bass than the HWK and use the HWK to fill in what you might be missing(50Hz to 100Hz). The klopping noise is the speaker being over driven to the point of bottom out just like the others said. With the amp only turn up a quarter of the way it seems that you gains on the receiver might be set to high. Not that I am the master of adjustment but when I play the movies you talked about with excessive gain on the receiver my HWK15 sounds like the "Budweiser Beer Wagon" pulling up to the front door and loudly I must say(klop/klop/klop). Just my "Brain Wiped" two cents.       HT-EXT
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #64 - 05/03/06 at 15:54:27
 
The "Budweiser Beer Wagon" pulling up to the front door is a good thing.  ;D

Bass setting on receiver is at 50%, less than that make the surrounds sound weak. (NO system eq unit)

Bob
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
John in CR
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #65 - 05/03/06 at 16:05:55
 
Bob,
I wouldn't even worry about WinISD, since it won't model the center chamber.  Just go with Dan's dimensions for the big chamber and build it with an extension to your current bottom chamber.  To get it to his size just do the following (You'll need a sheet of plywood plus enough for say 3 or 4 shelf braces similar to your current driver cutout baffles, but only 1 thickness is needed, and a new end cap, same as your current one but the new interior dimension will be the same as your original cab exterior dimension):

Cover the 2 current bottom port holes from the inside.

Cut 4 side panels-  48"x (current exterior width + 1 material thickness).  I go a tad wider, then use a flush bit for the router to perfect the edge after assembly.

Cut 3 or 4 braces-  Original cab exterior width X depth.  Make a big cutout for air flow (driver cutout size should do the trick).

Now if you didn't do wrap around assembly the first time, you get to learn the easy way.  Attach the braces to one panel, flush with one edge.  Then, starting at the non-flush edge, attach the other panels one at a time to the existing panel and braces by wrapping them around the braces.

To make it so you can take it apart and get to the bottom driver but get a good seal, build a sealing ring on the interior of the new construction 4" from one end.  Say four 1" peices of material forming a ring around the interior, 4" from the end.  Using foam rubber as a gasket on that ring, it will give you a seal when you slide the end of the original cab into the new construction and attach it with screws.

Build your end cap the same way as the original.  I'd put the port in the end for simplicity and go with a temporary straight port at first and try a few different sizes for desired tuning, starting with Dan's recommended 4" by 17".  You'll probably settle on something a little shorter (higher tuning), since the other end is tuned a little higher than Dan recommended.  Once you get the tuning you want, buy flares for both ends.  I'd replace the coffee can port with a real flared port too, unless it has zero port noise.

That should give you impressive extension, eliminate the whacking noise, and make you feel like you're inside the fish tank when Darla taps on it in Finding Nemo.  If you still have some excursion problems at very low frequencies, then you'll need to tune coffee can port lower with a longer port.  Your current banging problem is most likely with your current bottom driver and chamber, not the top, so the new big chamber should resolve it.


Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #66 - 05/03/06 at 16:59:40
 
John, your cool, and Thank You. Helluva detailed description.
I buzzed through quickly once, will read it more methodically later today.

But a couple questions I noticed;
-We are talking a structure that's 7' 8" correct?
-Leave driver location alone
-I installed 1/2" fiber padding in top and bottom chamber. Should I; Leave it alone, / add more to extension, / or take it out stupid, it shouldn't be there in the first place (noticed no difference anyway).

Thanks again John,
Bob
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/03/06 at 17:00:21 by Bob »  
  IP Logged
John in CR
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #67 - 05/03/06 at 19:22:51
 
Bob,

You got the idea, but I think more exactly 7' 10.25" with top and bottom caps and using the current bottom cap as a brace and cutting a big hole for air flow.  You have room to lay it on it's side right?

I wouldn't even take the drivers out or disconnect them.

Maybe save the padding for another project, or leave it there.

We haven't talked about your mains.  Do they go low enough to work with a sub that only goes up to 40-50hz ?
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/03/06 at 21:39:43 by John in CR »  
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #68 - 05/04/06 at 18:57:43
 
Yes, I've got 11' in width behind the seating.

No John those mains won't do that.   Sad Angry  I'll have to tolorate the gap until I can find something to build.
Looking for plans for a center, and four surrounds.  ;D   I had a long conversation with Dave (hurdy) and Terry about driver numbers. I havn't got "the right stuff". Not even close. (I don't mind learning by my mistakes, just when those mistakes cost $, that's when it's harder to swallow.

....Got any plans in your back pocket?

Bob
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
J_Rock
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #69 - 05/04/06 at 20:45:08
 
82 dB sensitivity on the RL-S sucks hard.
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #70 - 05/04/06 at 20:47:05
 
Thanks 'J', you just made me feel soooo much better about my 89db........ Cheesy

Bob
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
J_Rock
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #71 - 05/04/06 at 20:51:01
 
Well, considering your 89 dB will get as loud with 300 watts, you should feel proud. lol.

I mean, full wattage the RL-S thing will ony go to 122 db. (without the box in the equation....)
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/04/06 at 20:51:54 by j_rock777 »  
  IP Logged
John in CR
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #72 - 05/04/06 at 21:10:02
 
Bob,

I would say let's change the plan to one of my backups, in case the HWKenstein didn't work for you.  You can even use the same construction outlined above giving you the flexibility to try both with the only waste being 2 end caps.  

That plan is to create 2 low tuned ported subs using the old HWK as one box with the driver on one end and the port on the other.  The new construction would be the other sub.  Put them both behind you firing at each other and the ports firing into the corners resulting in some extra down low.  That way you'll get the top end extension to meet your current mains and still get great extension at the bottom end.  You won't have quite the max output down low as the bandpass, but I'm pretty sure it will put a smile on your face, especially since you have 2 of those Dayton 15's.  It will be close to EBS (Extended Bass Shelf) tuning.

If you construct and connect your end cap/drive baffles in the same manner as the HWK end caps, then you will be able to try both ways.  The ported boxes will work better for music because you can stuff the ports for music and open them up for HT.
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/04/06 at 21:12:05 by John in CR »  
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #73 - 05/04/06 at 22:44:50
 
Ok, John let me make sure I've got this correct.

-Build your idea as planned.

-Don't "SEAL" the double ports permenantly on the old HWK.

-You said; "Put them both behind you firing at each other and the ports firing into the corners resulting in some extra down low." --- You lost me there. "AT each other, but ports AWAY from each other?"

-Does the new box have the 3 ports just like Steves, or eliminate the doubles in the second build? The single center port would be 4" X about 17"?

I've modded this reply seven or eight times, got frustrated, removed it once, and started over.  >:(  Just when I think I've got it straight, and only have a couple questions .....  :o ? bla bla bla.


I THINK I'm with you John

Bob
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/04/06 at 22:45:46 by Bob »  
  IP Logged
Bob
Ex Member



Re: hz numbers on a 15" 2 driver
Reply #74 - 05/04/06 at 22:49:21
 
One driver in each box mounted with magnet in lower chamber, so "top" chamber now includes the center chamber also?

Continue running amp bridged with a "Y" in cable?
Or, run each sub on it's own channel? It might have some kind of neat stereo thing, or it might just sound funky running it that way.

Bob
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 05/04/06 at 22:58:25 by Bob »  
  IP Logged
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 ... 20
Send Topic Print