Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Decware Audio Forums
09/01/14 at 09:24:42


Pages: 1
Send Topic Print
Retrofitting the new driver (Read 2982 times)
msa
Ex Member



Retrofitting the new driver
04/10/06 at 15:45:11
 
Can someone describe in detail how to remove the old Fostex driver and how to replace it with the new DFR-8 speaker? Thanks in advance.
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Rap
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #1 - 04/10/06 at 16:16:15
 
Un screw and run a box-cutter blade gently around, between driver frame and baffle to cut the ´goo´ that´s under the driver Smiley
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 04/10/06 at 16:16:35 by Rap »  
  IP Logged
Zygi
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #2 - 04/10/06 at 16:59:26
 
MSA,

 Like Rap said, except use a credit card on the wood and 1" wide chisel. Chisel flat side up wiggle it under the frame and gently push down on the handle which should pry the driver up. Once the UK-UM putty releases you can lift the driver out.  I find it easier to un-solder at the binding posts and pull wire and all through the hole.

 Pretty easy...
   BobZ
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
msa
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #3 - 04/10/06 at 17:55:23
 
Thanks, guys. But more fundamentally, how does one get to the driver's edges after unscrewing the four screws? Is it done just thru the hole in which the driver sits?
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
gnat leader
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #4 - 04/10/06 at 19:41:48
 
Not sure what you mean.  The edges of the Fostex driver?  Removing the fostex driver was already described above.
What edge of the driver are you trying to access that you cannot once the driver is completely removed?
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
msa
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #5 - 04/26/06 at 16:14:04
 
Does one have to apply more "goop" or other sticky stuff when replacing the driver?
Thanks.
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Zygi
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #6 - 04/26/06 at 16:29:07
 
MSA,

  YES!!!

 BobZ
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
msa
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #7 - 04/26/06 at 18:34:23
 
What is the "goop" and where does one get it?
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
gnat leader
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #8 - 04/26/06 at 19:14:04
 
You can get it from www.partsexpress.com among other places.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=269-300&CFID=5897...

The non-hardening type of window "rope caulk" will work OK too. From Home Depot or other hardware store.
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 04/26/06 at 19:18:38 by Brad »  
  IP Logged
Zygi
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #9 - 04/27/06 at 01:36:17
 
Also, both auto parts and auto body supply houses carry the rope caulk. They call it strip caulk. 3M and Norton make it. You get 60 yards for $10-$12 and is sold in 1 foot lengths.  Norton is better than the 3M by a long shot!!!  Both are better than the rope caulk sold at the Home Depot type stores... Like  Brad said, its OK...

    BobZ
Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 04/27/06 at 01:37:35 by ZYGI »  
  IP Logged
johnnycopy
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #10 - 04/27/06 at 04:11:16
 
Bob,

Please explain differences between home depot rope caulk and others you've mentioned. I just purchased the home depot one, but will wait your advice.

Thanks John
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Zygi
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #11 - 04/27/06 at 04:35:58
 
John,

  The Home Depot rope caulk is more of a clay based caulk were the 3M/Norton is petroleum based product. I has a greater mecanical bond to the surface its applied to than the clay based product.  If you've ever gotten any of the strip caulk on your carpets you'll know what I mean...ask my wife!!  

 Being petroleum based it also has more of an elastic property to it, which I've found does damp the frames better then the clay based product. I used the clay based stuff for years till Steve showed me the stip caulk. I haven't used the rope caulk since.

BobZ

Back to top
 
« Last Edit: 04/27/06 at 04:37:17 by ZYGI »  
  IP Logged
Zygi
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #12 - 04/27/06 at 04:47:12
 
Also, when you apply the caulk to the driver, make sure you apply it around the sealing surface (were the gasket would go) as well as out around the hollow areas at the very outer edge of the frame. I also put a cirlce of it around the depressions at the four screw holes. When you use the strip caulk tighten the driver down and back off all four screw till you can get a .0010 feeler gauge under the very outside edge of the screw flange.

BobZ
Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
johnnycopy
Ex Member



Re: Retrofitting the new driver
Reply #13 - 04/27/06 at 06:28:40
 
Thanks Bob

Back to top
 
 
  IP Logged
Pages: 1
Send Topic Print