Forums - WO32 construction: Part II

Jet-Lee

Ex Member

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #15 - 03/01/06 at 15:05:19

That is an awesome build, Golden. I hope to rival your quality sometime in the near future.

I have had positive results with my enclosures in my car, because I lack somewhat(a lot) in the home theatre department. My current design is, by far, the best thing I've ever made. My WO32 was not a 32 though, it was 24, and still not made correct, so I cannot rate the 32, only my 24, which sucked. I also didn't have plans, only pictures.

I'm thinking of making a wall right behind my fold-down-able seats, placing the box at the very back of the trunk, and extending the horn to/through the wall.

I look forward to more of your builds, Golden.

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goldenk10

Ex Member

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #16 - 03/03/06 at 23:50:39

More Pics, as promised.

I used threaded brass inserts shown in the first picture. Next, we applied some home depot weather stripping to the entire top surface, burned holes into the weather stripping so the screws didn't chew it up, used machine screws+washers+lock washers to have a fully removable top..... a convertible WO32. Please note in the second pic, do NOT cut the mitre off of the corner. I DID NOT MAKE THIS PANEL CORRECTLY!

Enjoy!

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DirtDawg Ex Member	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #17 - 03/04/06 at 01:05:17 Looks good Golden, Your lucky to get a blow by blow critique from the master builder. This thread will make it more clear for all of us future WO32 builders. BobZ, Thanks for all your time helping to work out the details. Your efforts will be helpful to everyone.
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60ndown Ex Member	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #18 - 03/08/06 at 14:01:05 looks 2 me like there is still a small detail missing in the 2nd bend? and re-size them pics.
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gexter Ex Member	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #19 - 03/09/06 at 08:38:32 60 how about a little fabric and trimming excess and some fleck paint or something. a vacuum and a can of flat black would even help. but hows it sound ? the drivers in the deck more specifically
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M3 Ex Member	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #20 - 03/09/06 at 16:02:54 [quote author=60ndown link=1141087706/15#18 date=1141826465]looks 2 me like there is still a small detail missing in the 2nd bend? and re-size them pics. [/quote] Do you sealed off all the trunk? ;D
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60ndown

Ex Member

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #21 - 03/10/06 at 00:16:37

[quote author=gexter link=1141087706/15#19 date=1141893512]60

how about a little fabric and trimming excess and some fleck paint or something. a vacuum and a can of flat black would even help.

but hows it sound ? the drivers in the deck more specifically [/quote]

the 8s in the deck supprised me alot, the 12 is excellent and is well established as a hard to beat sq woofer that can get loud, after listening to it for a year i connected the 8s and well, im fitting the 8s in my new ride.they have almost the same performance as the single 12 except they are 'snappier' faster, more articulate. im not sure if the 12 fireing thru the seat foam was being affected (aperiodic?) negatively.? maybe it would get a little more of the speed magic the 8s have if it were allowed to play directly in to the listening area with no seat foam in from of it. im sure i will give it a chance but for now im going to try and get the 8s right up front. even have a 2500 wrms amp in the mail for em Grin

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13472

$400 used form a guy on the net, i hope it arrives and works?
if the first watt sucks, try the other 2499 Wink

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gexter

Ex Member

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #22 - 03/10/06 at 02:18:59

[quote author=60ndown link=1141087706/15#21 date=1141949797]

the 8s in the deck supprised me alot, the 12 is excellent and is well established as a hard to beat sq woofer that can get loud, after listening to it for a year i connected the 8s and well, im fitting the 8s in my new ride.they have almost the same performance as the single 12 except they are 'snappier' faster, more articulate. im not sure if the 12 fireing thru the seat foam was being affected (aperiodic?) negatively.? maybe it would get a little more of the speed magic the 8s have if it were allowed to play directly in to the listening area with no seat foam in from of it. im sure i will give it a chance but for now im going to try and get the 8s right up front. even have a 2500 wrms amp in the mail for em Grin

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13472

$400 used form a guy on the net, i hope it arrives and works?
if the first watt sucks, try the other 2499 Wink

[/quote]

LOL

I like the results that you had with the 8". brings the WO32 to mind and thats what I really enjoy..
I have enjoyed my smaller subs when I do some lengthy listening it may be in my Head but I find less fatigue and I can listen and enjoylonger

So many Ideas so little time...

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60ndown

Ex Member

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #23 - 03/10/06 at 04:15:35

[quote author=gexter link=1141087706/15#22 date=1141957139]

LOL

I like the results that you had with the 8". brings the WO32 to mind and thats what I really enjoy..
I have enjoyed my smaller subs when I do some lengthy listening it may be in my Head but I find less fatigue and I can listen and enjoylonger

So many Ideas so little time...
[/quote]

yea my 32 is the best sub ive ever heard.

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turbobusa65 Senior Member Posts: 66	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #24 - 05/11/07 at 02:42:53 Golden.... awesom job looks great! I noticed you had a bo-bo on your finger there in one of those pic's lol!!.............60............ W T F!! I thought I was having an acid flashback from that pic YOU posted!!! Please don't do it no more!!! LOL LOL!!!!
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speakerfreak7 Senior Member Posts: 88	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #25 - 06/25/07 at 22:10:44 wow that's an awesome build. what amp did u order. i'm thinkin of buildin one and usin those subs also. so would u wire them in parallel for 8 ohms?
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Adrian Seasoned Member Formerly known as 'Adrian D.' Posts: 250	Re: WO32 construction: Part II Reply #26 - 07/18/07 at 09:51:51 2 4 ohm drivers wired in parallel = 2 ohm final load.
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speakerfreak7

Senior Member

Posts: 88

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #27 - 07/21/07 at 09:05:43

yea that is what i meant to say. my bad. anyways i starrted to build the wo32 today!!! got almost all the pieces cut. but i'm still not completely understanding how this "cleat" thing works? i have the plans but i'm still confused. i've read threw this forum and figured out some other stuff but i need help on th cleat. is there anymore helpful pics of it? do u think it there would be a noticable difference if i just screwed it to the horn? i'm gonna use the same subs that goldenk used.

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ZYGI

Seasoned Member

HR-ONE

Posts: 598

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #28 - 07/21/07 at 13:46:16

freak7

The cleat, along with two or more screws at the top of the mounting plates, isolates the driver from the box. The angle is cut to allow the baffle board to slide in behind the cleat when the driver is in the baffle assembly. If no driver present the board should slide in the slot between the cleat and cabinet with ease.

In the picture above showing the velocity discs, the projection mitered material on both sides of the disc should not be removed, is should be left in tact.

One of the worst sounding WO-32's I've ever heard, was one built with the extra V-discs material removed and they had forgotten to install what I think on the prints as part "F" the little airfoil looking wing thing at the driver hole. I think that little piece, while a pain in the but to make and install is the single most important piece in the cabinet. Don't forget it!!!

BobZ

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« Last Edit: 07/21/07 at 13:46:59 by ZYGI »

All Decware amps and sources, Turning Point Audio speakers

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speakerfreak7

Senior Member

Posts: 88

Re: WO32 construction: Part II
Reply #29 - 07/21/07 at 19:28:11

thanks for the quick reply zigy. so it is screwed down at the bottom of the box right. what do u mean by the "moutnig plates" there will only be 2 cleats total right? is it glued down too? on the construction notes for b it says "This panel should be moretised so that the woofer has a flush mount. The moretise should run 1/8th inch deeper than the thickness of the woofers fram and gasket. Than it says to use a sticky bead of moretite rope calk? that's placed inbetween the woofer and the panel to hold it together right? and does moretised mean the same a dado? and thanks for telling me to use the F brace. i was gonna leave it out. it's only gonna be 3/4" deep right? with one side tapered down. it seems like it will split easily since it is so small. should it be screwed or t nailed? thanks again. oh wow i just looked the plans fot the cleat again and i think i get it now! i was totally confused on the little drawing. optical illusion! and i noticed that th V at the botoom, the panels are placed on the outside of the lines rather than on the inside like the WO. y is that?

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« Last Edit: 07/21/07 at 19:31:35 by speakerfreak7 »

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