bassboy
Ex Member
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Boydon - my comments are based on my own experience with my imperial, which is similar but still quite different than the SO. In case you didn't see my post in dank's thread here is a brief description.
Mine was originally built from 1956 plans but modified to make construction much easier, built mainly of SOLID 2" doors with no bracing anywhere, although even with the huge panels it might still help. All internal dimensions are kept exactly to original specs.
Not happy with frequency response, I did a lot of research and decided, as Steve did, to change the design to front loaded. All I did to change it was move the driver panel back to close the internal compression chamber and cover the front.
2 10's use the 8 or 9 foot chamber in an infinite baffle situation, as they call for a sealed box of only 1.3 cubes each. This REDUCES the sensitivity of the drivers from a rated 94 by probably 3 db less. It does, however, promote low frequency extension and response is still pretty even.
I do not utilize any type of slot in the front, making my design very similar to most commercial units.
The amp I use is solid state garbage, 200 watts total peak. I have never used more than 100 watts peak, and at this volume it is very unpleasant as the room vibrations cause more noise than the bass. You can actually feel the concrete floor vibrating.
It has been my experience that speaker placement in the room is more important than driver selection, compression chamber size, materials used to make the box, etc. Especially in an untreated room. In my opinion, the only thing as important is keeping the horn flare as close as possible to a proven design.
All those factors are certainly important but...
I have tried both a front and a back loaded imperial with different combinations of 2x10", 2x8", 4x8". The speakers had wildly different specs but the frequency response for each combo was ALMOST EXACTLY THE SAME, all combos rolling off steeply below 40. (I like 2x10" front loaded the best.)
Those are the results directly in front of the horn mouth. Coupling to the room provides dramatically different results in which moving the speaker just a few inches completely changes the frequency response in different parts of the room. The best spot to date for even frequency response and low frequency extension has been with the mouth very close to the corner walls.
All that is a long way of saying no, it is not exactly an imperial SO, no, I am not using a 4 watt amp. But in my untreated room, with the mouth so close to the wall 4 watts is about the max before the room starts shaking and reducing sound quality.
A 20hz note at 10 watts total peak does not sound loud at all but rattles the room and especially the wall it fires into like you would not believe. Not enough to shake the drywall free of the screws but definitely enough to crumble old dry plaster.
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