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Message started by Hotsauce on 07/28/09 at 00:37:22

Title: P1324 Questions
Post by Hotsauce on 07/28/09 at 00:37:22

I'm looking at options for adding some diffusion.  

What kind of wood are the assembled P1324?  

Are there choices of other wood, I'd like to have cherry or black walnut.   The slats and back appear to be masonite board.  Can these be real wood?

John C.




Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by proud_indian on 07/28/09 at 04:20:52

I have used MDF and thin ply ( the king you find behind photo frames )

it works..has been working for the past 4 years!!

shreekant :)

Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by Hotsauce on 07/28/09 at 10:38:51

I'm sure yours work, as do these.  

I don't want to build these myself, I'd want to order them assembled.  I just want something better looking.  I have a walnut floor, and all qtr sawn cherry furniture.  Light colored wood won't look right.

Core sells some nice ones in american black walnut, but the guy is impossible to do business with.

John C.  


Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by ZYGI on 07/28/09 at 12:36:46

John

 The diffusers are made out of MDF. The cost to build  them in real wood would be significantly higher,  not just material costs but labor as well. To  get all the edges that show, to be solid wood, one would have to use solid wood.  Then you would have a problem gluing them up, with no glue lines to showing.

  I've done some custom diffusers, where they were covered in cloth and then installed a solid wood frame around them, which looked real good when finished.

BobZ

Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by Hotsauce on 09/01/09 at 21:36:18

My local cabinetmaker is going to undertake my diffusor project.  

Because he has a CNC router, I came up with an idea to simplify the assembly.  

We're going to route each well pocket to the correct depth to insure correct assembly.  Now all the strips can be thin, and the same size.  

As a result of this the back of the panel will be somewhat hollow.  We'll see if it needs to be filled, or if it can just be empty.  

John C.  

Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by Hotsauce on 09/04/09 at 00:10:49



First test cut.  

John C.


Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by ZYGI on 09/04/09 at 03:39:28

John,

 It will be interesting to see how these turn out. Keep us posted.

From what I see so far, it will turn out much like the Decware diffusers, which are also hollow on the back side, should work just fine.
ZYGI

Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by Hotsauce on 11/27/09 at 05:12:36

The first completed sample is in my hands, and with a few small details, I've approved it.  I'm doing 16 pieces, and then once they're on the walls, I'll decide if I need more.

The frame is mahogany ply, with edge banding on front and back face.  The dividers are masonite, and the well pieces are ¾" square mahogany stock.

As of yet, this piece has no stain or finish on it, I have several finish samples, and I'm still deciding.  





>>LOL, just realized this is the back.  They are reversable.

John C.


Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by CamelFraggle on 12/08/09 at 21:07:59

How did the finishing go on these?

Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by Hotsauce on 12/30/09 at 02:21:44

Heres my finish test pieces.


The unlabeled one is danish oil.  Below are the same with clear over them.  I really don't like the clear, it really shows lots or orange peel, and looks like finish on wood, not finished wood itself.



I'm going with danish oil, as soon as production and assembly can be worked into schedules.

John C.


Title: Re: P1324 Questions
Post by mike_gagne on 01/15/10 at 07:36:20

Hotsauce, finishing is an art coupled with technique. Orange peel describes an effect of air pressure on liquid and is caused by too much air/not enough fluid in varying combinations. Generally a resand and recoat solves the issue but avoiding it is usually best. Your orange peel looks like not enough flowout caused by a lack of reducer or thinner. Increasing the thinner will likely help. When the material viscosity is too high or too thick it will not shoot well and the tendancy is to increase the air pressure to get the finish to spray from the gun. More thinner will allow you to reduce your air pressure and get proper fluid transfer.
My personal preference in finishes is conversion varnish or a precat lacquer with the precat being easiest to use. Danish oil will require redo every few months to avoid the dried out look. I cant wait to hear how your diffuser works out. I need to do the same thing.    aloha, mike

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